RD.

I didn't make it to the auction, but I did get some fish dropped off by a member that did. A big shout out to VinceO for making an extra effort, I am now the owner of a group of L. caeruleus "Ruarwe".

Yes, same ID on MFK and everywhere else.

Welcome!

Yes, they have been brought into the province in the past.

Ok, thanks. Odd as I don't think the formula is any different than the formulas I have used. Perhaps it affects young fish, more so than adults? The only thing I noticed with the small pellet size (1mm Cichld formula)was that it made my water a little cloudy, even when feeding small amounts, in a large tank with mega filtration. I also noted that NF sizes are much smaller than the identical mm sizes of NLS.

For what it's worth, NLS would be my first choice for tropheus. Having said that, I have experimented with NF for the past 1.5 years, and have not seen any reduction in color, in any of the various species of cichlids, or non cichlids that I have trialed it on. I have only fed the Cichlid, and Jumbo formulas. Fish seem as healthy, and colorful, as fed on NLS. (when feeding either/or exclusively for several months) IMO it is a high quality food. Personally I would not waste my money on Dainichi. Jorg, what formula of NF were you feeding your grow outs?

Some good solid advice from the previous two posters. The only thing that I would add is to feed sparingly for the first several days while the new fish adjust to their new surroundings, and to that I typically feed either epsom soaked pellets, or New Life Spectrum Hex-Shield pellets for 3-5 days to neutralize any internal pathogens such as spironucleus vortens. It's a very safe, very effective way to prevent stress issues that are often triggered by netting and moving fish around.

Just saw these in person, beautiful group of fish.

Hybrids are fine, as long as one is not breeding any mbuna in that tank. Mbuna do not have to be of the same species, or even from the same genus, to successfully breed. Any dominant male mbuna will breed with any female fish that is ripe, including non mbuna.

Adding a couple into your discus tank won't be an issue.

Hi Harold, probably what you were thinking of is that Prime/Safe will also precipitate small amounts of some heavy metals, such as lead, zinc, mercury, copper.

LOL, especially Fireman Fish ..... "I always assumed that if your water treatment chemicals reduce or eliminate chlorine products that they did the same with flourides." Prime, Safe etc. are reducing agents and react with oxidising agents, such as chlorine compounds. If there are no chlorine compounds left in the water it will typically begin to reduce oxygen. Any residual fluoride will be unaffected.

I love it when people argue about lubricants. lol http://alt.home.repair.narkive.com/izXb7U8R/vaseline-on-rubber-plumbing-seals As previously stated, it depends exactly what the 0-ring is made from. No matter what one uses, use lubricant on 0-rings VERY sparingly.

Petroleum based products can break down certain rubber o rings, where silicone generally will not. In the end it depends on the type of rubber/material used in the o ring.

O-rings should be lubricated with silicone based lubricants only, so no petroleum jelly.

Congrats! So far so good, looks like they just need a little time, and a little more conditioning maybe.

Nice!

We're actually pretty lucky here in AB, the descendants of Kyle's wild labs are still circulating and there's a few very nice line bred strains. But ya, lots of crap at the big box stores, for sure. The Ruarwe variant seems to have a bit of an orange tinge to them, very nice looking fish. Good luck with them.

Nice looking group of fish! FYI - Some of the Lions Cove variant of L. caeruleus naturally have some white on their bellies. This is not a negative feature, anymore than a male sporting a black mask is. I have seen both features in wild labs. In fact, one of the past members here on AA spent 5 months working for the late Stuart Grant on Lake Malawi back in 2003, and collected, and returned to AB with a breeding group of wild yellow labs from Lions Cove. He also set up the tank below in Stuart's fish room at the same time. Hopefully these attachments work.

Crushed oyster shell, just add to filters in media bags. Can be purchased dirt cheap at any local farm feed center. Make sure to rinse the b'jesus out of it before using. If you are located in Red Deer, Masterfeeds on 77st should have it, at least they did in the past. Not sure why you would want to increase your GH if you are on RD city water, but that is one of the cheapest options available.

This large male is owned by an MFK buddy of mine. Over a foot long when that pic was taken. Most of his Amphilophus, including that male lab came from Rapps. http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/amphilophus-for-cookiemonster.203143/

Yes, pics for sure! And yes, pure labiatus can get humps, but generally never anything near as large as a midas.

Cupramine will work, but you cannot use it with Seachem Prime, or Seachem Safe. Make sure to do your homework first before using this particular medication.

90F will kill ich, no need to even add salt. Just make sure to increase 02 levels.

Those full tank shots really don't do your tanks justice, they look amazing in person! The new LED lighting that you are using really sets them off. Great work Ryan!