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Red Algae


lotsafish
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alright, so I picked up some margarita snails to try and controll this, but my fat, well fed Marine Betta has still decided to take a liking to them (shakes fist)...short of adding that "No-cyano" liquid thinger-ma-jig, anyone know of ways to get rid of it?

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alright, so I picked up some margarita snails to try and controll this, but my fat, well fed Marine Betta has still decided to take a liking to them (shakes fist)...short of adding that "No-cyano" liquid thinger-ma-jig, anyone know of ways to get rid of it?

true sae's are supposed to eat it.

But they are not saltwater fish.

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Tell us more about your tank? Things like amount of flow, what's the water testing at for nitrates/ammonia, etc., have you added anything new (new plumbing?), how long it's been set up... It could be as easy as just adding in another powerhead if it is only lack of flow.

Edited by sharuq1
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Tell us more about your tank? Things like amount of flow, what's the water testing at for nitrates/ammonia, etc., have you added anything new (new plumbing?), how long it's been set up... It could be as easy as just adding in another powerhead if it is only lack of flow.

90 Gallon Tank with built in overflow (48" long X 18" deep X 24" tall)

- Glass top

- 48" Metal Halide System, Total of 760 Watts of light

- Two 250 Watt DE HQI

- Four 65 Watt Compact Flourescent

- 6 Dual LCD Blue Moon light lamps

- 2 Koralia 3 Powerheads

- 1 Koralia 4 Powerhead

- 33 Gallon Sump/Fuge system

- In Sump Skimmer Rated for 100 gallon tank

- Quietone 5000 Return Pump (at 3.5 feet of head almost 1150 gph)

Readings are all normal, the tank was moved from one house to another a couple weeks ago, but I moved all the rock in existing water (only ended up adding about 40 gallons new water) The tank was set up for 3 months before that. Fish are happy and healthy, eating well. (Black Voltan, Pair Maroon Clowns, Sailfin Tang, Marine Betta, Flame Angel)

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Try not feeding for a couple days. Point a PH at the problem areas to increase flow across the cyano. Skim wet to maximize the amount of crap coming out of the tank. Give it a bit of time. Quick solutions sometimes cause more problems than they are worth. Your tank isn't all that old, it's still establishing. Even moving it with the original water, and rock will disturb the life on the LR. Don't panic it will go away without chemicals. If you can find some chaeto or other macro for your sump that will probably help too.

Good Luck

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picked up a 3rd Koralia 3 today and will point it at the patch that has the most (grrrrr). Sorry for being dumb, but what does "skim wet" mean? :boxed:

I've set up my lights so that my MH aren't even on, just the actinics for now, on at 630 am and off at 10. Initially the MH were on from 6pm to 10, I'd imagine this would be a good amount for the eventual corals?

What about possibly adding a foxface or rabbit fish? Not right away, maybe once the problem is managed?

Edited by lotsafish
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picked up a 3rd Koralia 3 today and will point it at the patch that has the most (grrrrr). Sorry for being dumb, but what does "skim wet" mean? :boxed:

Move the skimmer cup down a little bit, so that the foam that gets pushed into the cup is fairly wet, and the amount of waste collected builds up quickly. 'Skimming dry' produces a smaller amount of very dense, dark skimmate, while 'skimming wet' produces a large quantity of slightly less dense skimmate. It's a pain to skim wet for long periods of time (you have to dump the cup more often), but it can give you an extra edge on nutrient removal in certain situations.

I'd wait to add more fish until you're certain you have the issue under control. Cyano can be a pain.

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thanks, will do (For both parts)

I also added some bio balls to reduce noise, but stir them regularly when I do the water changes in the tank....could this be the issue?

Yes, bio media becomes a nitrate factory in SW systems. I'd remove them personally. I ran a HOB filter on my tank and I had to take the sponge out and rinse it under hot tap water every couple of days to kill the nitrifying bacteria.

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If you have no corals you could try doing a lights out for a while. I had major problems with cyano in one of my nanos for a long while and left the tank dark for like two weeks, added flow, added carbon (changed 1x per week) and it never came back.

You could add in rocks (either live or base) to reduce noise instead of the bio balls. If the rocks are bigger you won't get the detritus build up you would if they were smaller.

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Thanks Sharug. I have one coral, bought it from Golds...stupid me doesn't even know the actual name of it. It's from Australia and they told me it similar to elegance??

I'll have to save up for some more live rock, but until then I'll take the steps. On a better note, turning off the MH and adding a ph focused on the main problem spot has seemed to reduce it already. Syphoning this weekend and will have to try and get as much out as possible

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That reminds me, not totally sure if it is relevant or not for this particular situation, but it wouldn't hurt. Get a test kit and make sure your kH and your calcium are ok. If you are prepping to put coral in the tank anyway, why not start early and get it where you want it. I don't remember the details but there are water quality related issues that can come about when these are out of whack (algaes/diatoms etc.) so making certain it's all good is just one more step you can take for prevention. If for some reason your kH/Ca is not where you want it there is a very easy two part solution you can use to raise it where you want it to be.

Here is what kwirky/Sean from Gold's gave me (ty!):

Originally Posted by kwirky

http://reef.diesyst.com/flashcalc/flashcalc.html

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

one's the calculator one's the recipe.

this is technically "randy's two part version 1"

This two part uses the anhydrous CaCl2(can get it from gold's and the bulk reef supply in the states) and baked baking soda.

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