steven128 Posted August 26, 2008 Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 Hi all, I'm thinking of starting a new planted tank and I was debiting on getting a one custom build, does anyone know what is the best height for a planted tank? Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drydock Posted August 26, 2008 Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 Hi all,I'm thinking of starting a new planted tank and I was debiting on getting a one custom build, does anyone know what is the best height for a planted tank? Steven My new tank is 72" x 30" wide and 24" high. It was built as a salt water reef tank, but I am hoping that the same benefits that were expected out of it's design for SW will still apply to a FW planted tank. I don't know what the 'ideal' height would be. I think that would probably depend on the types of plants that you want to have. Keep in mind that the deeper your tank, the more powerful your lighting system needs to be in order to make it to the very bottom of the tank for any of the shorter plants that may be there. As long as you consider your lighting requirements when you are thinking of how deep to go (T-5, halides...) you should be fine. I personally also like a larger footprint because it gives you more room to aquascape the tank and give a real sense of depth. (shorter, but larger front to back) My hands are in my planted tank a lot. Pruning, re-planting when fish move stuff... you would need some sort of attachment if you go over 36" deep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
werner Posted August 26, 2008 Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 Choose a tank length that will allow you to use a standard size light fixture. For example, a 4' tank will have plenty of lighting options; a 5' tank may limit you. Are you short or tall? Think about the height of the tank and it's stand. Is your armpit high enough to fit over the tank edge? Are your arms long enough to reach the bottom? How about the bottom at the rear of the tank? There should be several inches of substrate in there, so that will give you some leeway. Planting tweezers are very helpful, but sometimes aren't as good as fingers for certain jobs. I'm all of 5' 1" so I have a few issues in this department. I want to get a bigger tank, but then I'll need a step stool to work on it. What kind of plants are you planning to use? With CO2 addition, some sword plants can get about 2' in diameter. An Amano style tank with daintier plans doesn't have to be big at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steven128 Posted August 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 Choose a tank length that will allow you to use a standard size light fixture. For example, a 4' tank will have plenty of lighting options; a 5' tank may limit you.Are you short or tall? Think about the height of the tank and it's stand. Is your armpit high enough to fit over the tank edge? Are your arms long enough to reach the bottom? How about the bottom at the rear of the tank? There should be several inches of substrate in there, so that will give you some leeway. Planting tweezers are very helpful, but sometimes aren't as good as fingers for certain jobs. I'm all of 5' 1" so I have a few issues in this department. I want to get a bigger tank, but then I'll need a step stool to work on it. What kind of plants are you planning to use? With CO2 addition, some sword plants can get about 2' in diameter. An Amano style tank with daintier plans doesn't have to be big at all. I actually have a 55g planted tank right now so i guess i could transfer some to the new one if i can find it at a reasonable cost! what type of plants do you have? i'm looking for some Downoi Pogostemon helferi, if you have any for trade or want to get rid off, please PM me!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted August 26, 2008 Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 I am currently running a 135 planted - no stem plants, tho (don't like pruning so often). I only have 3 twin-strip T12 fixtures on it, and everything - including pygmy chain sword - is growing well. The only problem is that I have to replace the bulbs every 6 months, and since T12s aren't the fixture of choice in buildings anymore, they're a bit more expensive ($4-6 for a 2pak instead of $2). I do have plans in place for 2 MH pendants to be mounted about 1' above the tank... then I'll have to replace the pygmy sword with Glosso!!! There was some Pog. helferi being sold here in Edmonton, and I know a few AA members were able to score some; just not sure how prolific it's been or if it's made its way to Calgary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 I have 5 planted tanks. Trust me, get a tank that is only as deep as your arm can basically reach the substrate. In a planted tank you will be wanting to sometimes use your fingers to insert the plants, tweezers or tongs are not as accurate. My arms just barely reach to the bottom of my 90gal planted tank. But for my others, they are smaller so much easier to maintain. Right now I am working servicing aquariums, I have to clean some pretty deep tanks. It can be very difficult to do what you need to in something that's too deep. And lifting heavy rocks and deco is not very fun either. Deep tanks are pretty, but very difficult to clean and set up. I have been trying to use lighting that is 2-3 watts per gallon. Use the appropriate method of CO2 for the size of your tank. I have on my 40 gallon planted 2 bubble ladder yeast systems + 1 DIY. Right now my 90 does not have many plants, but soon I am hoping to invest in a pressurized system. I try to use fluorite, peat, or laterite in my substrate. Then with doses of seachem's comprehensive fertilizer. My smallest tanks of 10 gallons and under I dose with seachem's flourish excel, and comprehensive. The lighting is low lights with mainly java ferns and anubias. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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