BettaFishMommy Posted July 4, 2009 Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 picked up two albino cories from big als on wednesday. put them in my nearly bare 10 gallon qt/endler fry/baby snail tank. didn't do anything special, heck, i've barely done water changes on it for the past 10 days, and i come home to find a whole bunch of eggs on the front of the tank glass! i'm trying to put a photo of the eggs up but AA is trying to tell me the picture is too big when it's only 60 odd k. grrrrrr! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BettaFishMommy Posted July 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 and is there anything special i have to do to ensure they hatch and the parents don't eat the eggs or the babies? (yes, i'm going to google my tookus off in a lil bit, lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wackinator Posted July 4, 2009 Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 Congrats I tried to breed them once and it barely worked, only had one baby make it for a lil while then it just disappeared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BettaFishMommy Posted July 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 bump. nobody has advice on raising cory fry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppygirl Posted July 4, 2009 Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 Congrats on the eggs, at least you know that you have a female and most likely a male. Albinos are usually either corydora aeneus (bronze cory) or corydora paleatus (peppered cory). Both relatively easy to breed. A bonus. Now to the eggs. Healthy eggs are clear and later turn brownish, fungused and infertile eggs turn white and fuzzy. Not good, if any look like this remove them as the fungus spreads. It is best to get the new cory egg home ready before you attempt egg removal-I just use a net breeder that hangs on the side of the main tank-this allows water movement and heated water. When I first started cory breeding I used the unheated water rearing technique-not realizing the info I was getting was from southern climates such as Florida, and New Zealand where the air temp is so much warmer then here in Canada. Do not use the plastic breeders for the reason that the fry can and will swim through the tiny slots on the bottom of the container and goodbye babies. With your net breeder I also use an airstone connected to a airpump to help circulate the water. I recommend removing the eggs from the glass, for cory baby survival-both breeds are egg eaters-this can be a little tricky. I scrap the eggs off with my algae scrapper that came with a blade-Gently as not to hurt the eggs. First I pour some pimafix on the tool I am going to use as this helps combat some of the fungus. I then ever so gently scrap upward with my tool and remove the eggs. I also use a net under the tool to catch free falling eggs as you scrap up the eggs sometimes dislodge and fall to gravel in my case and become lunch. Any eggs you do scrap off can be gently shaken off the tool and into the net breeder, any stuck ones can be dislodged with a wooden skewer. Netted eggs can be inverted in the net breeder also and shaken out or removed gently with the wooden skewer. I have heard people say they also use creditcards, or some other plastic flat edge to remove the eggs also. I have just never used them. Other anti fungal methods can be used such as Methal blue (sp), thou it is toxic to fry so it will have to be removed before the fry hatch, also a dose of pimafix won't hurt. The fertile eggs if you got to them quick enough and removed them will hatch in usually 3-7 days sometimes longer or shorter depending on tank temperature. Fungused eggs can be removed daily with the help of a eyedropper- I use a bigger version found in drug stores and they have either a blue bulb or a pink bulb. When they hatch they will be small and to me look like pics of sperm. Tiny head with a tail. They don't need to be fed for ~2-4 days as they absorb their egg sacs-any food added during this time with rot and foul the water. It is best to keep an eye on them thou as depending on temp they may use up their eggs sacs quicker or slower. One can shiny a light on them and you can usually see a faint outline of their eggs sac. When it is gone. Feed them. Now to baby cory fry foods. Two lines of feeding-store bought or live. Store bought- I have used First Bites by Hikari-very small baby food-also very good-thou over feeding can cause water problems, also Wardley Liqui-fry. Some use boiled egg yolk-didn't work for me and the babies died. One can also probably powder NLS grow formula-I haven't used it on cory fry. Live foods include items like baby brine shrimp, microworms which I am using right now, grindal worms when they get bigger and when they are adults bloodworm, glass worm, adult brine shrimp, white worms, etc. The adult foods also help condition the parents so they breed more frequently. I tend to mix it up and use both store bought and live-my new corydora weitmani fry are getting the microwom and First bite mix. Any live foods that get missed tend to sink out of the baby net breeder and the other fish get a treat. Or in my case the hundred + guppy fry get fed. Try to feed 2-4 times daily to help growth and hunger. Spread the food throughout the net breeder so they can find it, remember they are extremely tiny for quite some time. It will be many, many months before they are big enough to go with the adults. Also in the net breeder it is advisable to add some sort of floating plant or java moss, this just helps the fry feel more secure, also provides shade for the sometimes light sensitive fry. My fry tended to hide under the plastic support structure that held up the net breeder. Change water fairly frequently to keep it fresh just remember that when you suck the water out that the fry only have the amount of water that can wet the net, any lower and they die. Just keep feeding and hopefully you get some adult babies. It is trial and error in the beginning, so if something happens to these eggs. More are on the way. It took me more then 500 eggs and many attempts in the beginning to get one baby-lucky for me it was female and now she is a massive egg layer. Later attempts got me results such as 10 out of 50 fry, 50 out of 100 and so on. Not ever baby hatched will survive to adulthood-it is just nature and not in our control all the time. Sometimes you will get funny fry- I have some bronze corys that have only one eye, some with small eyes and some with golden eyes, many would have culled them but I kept them and they are as healthy as the others. Once your adults start the breed-they can do it like every two weeks if well fed. Water changes set them off. Adult female bronze cories can lay between 100-300 eggs at a time. Usually closer to 100-150, though you could have corydora paleatus which can have the 300. So good luck with the eggs and if you didn't get them now just wait and you will have them again soon enough. :thumbs: :thumbs: Any other questions just ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BettaFishMommy Posted July 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 wow, thanks for all the info Guppygirl! much appreciated! i have managed to be able to move the parents out of the tank, so no worries on them eating the eggs any more. i did buy a breeder box, the plastic floating kind (all the lfs had), but it has an insert that looks like it allows for the holes in the plastic to be blocked. we'll see how it goes. i do plan on putting the eggs in the breeder tonight, and i'm going to remove the few that i've noticed have gone white. i don't have an airstone for the breeder box so would just putting the airline in there work, on a gentle flow? as for feeding, the lfs today had no fry food that wasn't a ridiculous price for an itty bitty container, so i'm going to try powdering nls, shrimp pellets, algae wafers etc and target feeding the fry with a syringe. any comments on whether this is not a good option? the tank all this is happening in is a 10 gallon, filled nearly all the way, with an aquaclear hob (rated for 30 gallons i think) and the intake tube has a net over it to keep creatures from going for an impeller ride. is there anything else i would have to do to the filter for the fry to be safe once they are out of the breeder box? i plan on removing the box and having them free in the tank once they are about the same size as the endler fry that are also in this tank. other inhabitants are baby apple snails, but i don't anticipate any issues with them. all comments and suggestions are very much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishclubgirl Posted July 5, 2009 Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 I too have had accidental cory eggs and raised cory fry. I did get a couple of fry too. I am by no means a cory expert but learned after that cory eggs are photo sensitive. What was suggested to me, was to put the eggs in a margarine pot or something like that, add some antifungal and an airstone, cover them and then see what happens. I was not advised to put them in a breeding trap and go on vacation which I did do, lol. Just a suggestion from someone who's not a cory expert. Syno321, I could use your expertise here!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BettaFishMommy Posted July 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 (edited) ok, so i put the eggs in the plastic floating breeder trap. couldn't find a way to get the insert thingy to cover the holes in the bottom of the trap so to heck with it, if the cory fry end up gallivanting with the endler fry so be it. i was going to just leave the eggs on the glass since i managed to move the parents out, but got the breeder trap just in case and glad i did, because when i got home from shopping today i noticed one of the larger endler fry picking at the eggs. my airpump has decided to grow legs and hide somewhere (i don't normally use one but keep one around just in case) so i'm not able to get an airline in there tonight (read: too tired to go tearing apart closets for air pump, lol), but the breeder box isn't very far from the filter output so i think there is a lil bit of water flow through the box, so not too worried for the night. eggs were a lot easier to get off the tank glass than i thought! plastic measuring spoon worked great for that. picked out the ones that looked white and tossed them, since i've read and been told that white = fungused eggs. every once in a while i'm going over to the tank and gently moving the breeding trap up and down in the water a little to help with water circulation in the trap. good idea, yes or no? also, what is the maximum time the eggs can be out of water and not be damaged? and now the last question for this post, i promise! lol. so if the tank is at a constant 80F and the eggs were laid at some point between 8:30 am and 7:00 pm on Friday, when can i expect wrigglers? i've read anywhere between 3 and 9 days, depending on what info you glean from. Edited July 5, 2009 by BettaFishMommy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BettaFishMommy Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 came home today to find ALL the cory eggs white with fungus on them! :cry: and thats even with the airstone i picked up going gently in the breeder box. dagnabit! next time i am definitely going to use an antifungal. so no cory grandma status for this crazy fish lady............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppygirl Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Sorry to hear that. :boxed: :cry: I have had numerous batches of eggs grow fungus-sometimes even with antifungal they still go bad. It could be that you have young breeders. How big are they? If you feed them well- they will most likely try breeding again within a month. To help them along give them a slightly cooler water change and that will usually tempt to breed and give you another chance at eggs and being a cory grandma. Good luck and keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BettaFishMommy Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 unless i put the albinos back in the 10 gallon i probably won't be having fishy babies anytime soon, what with an albino rainbow shark in the tank they are now in. dang hoover sharkie, he eats all and any eggs laid in that tank. oh well, got about 11 snail clutches waiting to hatch out so i'll have shellkids to raise up anyhoo. might try again in a couple months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roypark05 Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 (edited) I have no advice on cory eggs/fry but here's a trick to post pictures. Use this site: http://www.imageshack.us/ to host the picture. You can resize it specifically for messageboards. Then, after that, post the image via the link provided from that hosting site. Edited July 7, 2009 by roypark05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BettaFishMommy Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 i'd rather not have to sign up on yet another online this or that, i belong to too many books, buckets, forums, and fanclubs already, lol. normally my photos are not a problem to load but this one time AA was trying to tell me my attachment was over 1 meg when it wasn't even 70 k. dunno what was going on..... oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roypark05 Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 I use it all the time and have never signed up for anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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