Fertilizing

[timbruun]

Now that I've decided to use dry ferts a bit I'd like to mix up a batch ready to go and just use a certain amount of ml of that solution per certain gallons.

I've got KNO3, KH2PO4,K2SO4, MgSO4, Trace. All in dry form except the KNO3 which is 500g in 2L water.

I've also got these from seachem which I don't have to use but wouldn't mind using up and then sticking with dry ferts afterwards. Flourish excel, potassium, iron, nitrogen and comprehensive. Along with seachem equilibrium. The excel and equilibrium I don't want to just use up since I will be using them regularily.

So what I've figured out somewhat is that I'd like to put them in like this once a week per 10 gallons:

1/16 tsp KNO3 or 1.25ml solution

1/32 tsp KH2PO4

1/32 tsp K2SO4

1/64 tsp Trace

I will be using excel in one out of the two tanks as per the dosage on the bottle and possibly DIY CO2 in the other tank. If no DIY then nothing though. This along with 50% WC every week. I will also be using the MgSO4 and CaSO4 to adjust my GH since it's at zero. And actually if anyone knows how much of each to raise GH by 1 dH would be great. I've read I need to use 1:4 of MgSO4:CaSO4 but that's as much as I could find.

The tank that is getting excel is a 90 gal with 1.5 wpg. The non excel has 0.5 wpg. Lighting hours is 10-12 then 5-11. So 8 hours which I will do more as things progress.

Now feel free to give me any info on the above but my real question is how to go about mixing up the solution. Like I said, I would like to be able to use let's say 1 or 2 ml per 10 gallons. I assume it needs to be 2 since I need to have 1.25ml of KNO3 solution. How would I mix this all up in either a 2L or 500ml bottle to have it ready for use over maybe 10 weeks and how much of each. Can some not be mixed? And last question for now, do I still need to add KNO3 if I have a high fish load?

Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance for the help.

[Jaykit]

From personal experience (I am no expert at this at all) I would suggest improving your lights over the tank and/or adding co2(pressurized or diy) then trying to add ferts if both of your tanks are 1.5wpg and 0.5wpg. I don't believe there is ample light to start worrying about dosing dry ferts. Also, just guessing here but with the low wattage lights I would assume that you are only have low light plants in the tank and they wouldn't benefit as much as other plants would from the extra nutrients especially with your mentioned heavy fish load. Highly recommend the lights first if you can and then some co2 and then ferts.

However, if you do continue with the dry ferts, I had mixed all mine into their own jars/bottles and then just give them each a quick shake before I used a 50ml sringe and added the measured solution to the tank. As per the KNO3 you could hold off on adding it into your tank and just measure your nitrates daily for a couple weeks. If you notice a significant drop then yes I would add it but if not then I wouldn't bother.

[jvision]

I would not recommend increasing light first. More light without CO2 = algae. If you are planning to upgrade down the road, start w. CO2.

Be carefull when making a stock solution. Do not add your macros and micros together - PO4 will bind up the Fe making it unusable to plants. I have never made a stock solution, always adding individual dry ferts to the tank. The reason being is that you don't always need the same mixture. Some dificiencies show up on plants, and you have to increase one of your ferts only. A certain alga shows up, you only need to adjust one fert. To be honest, I'm one lazy SOB when it comes to plants - I dose according to the EI chart in the planted forum and adjust as needed. I gave away my test kits a long time ago.

1.5WPG is not too low to add ferts. If you are using the Estimative Index, start adding for a tank size that is 2/3 yours (so, add for a 60gal). Make sure to dose enough Excel (though on a 90 gal, that ends up being A LOT!). You will probably need to add KNO3, as N is one of the nutrients used most by plants.

Your .5WPG likely won't need any extra food, tho Excel won't hurt and can keep algae at bay.

[timbruun]

The 1.5wpg tank had an algae problem and I know my water isn't that good. That's the reason behind adding ferts. For the 0.5wpg tank it's more to prevent deficiency than anything. Some of the plants do show deficiencies. I'm still learning/reading what I need to fix each problem. I'm pretty much going by the EI method. Just suiting it to my medium light excel tank and low light no CO2 tank. I've gone over your EI chart many times, don't worry. lol Similar dosing just less per week.

I won't be upgrading my lights anytime soon I doubt. I want to make things grow with what I have and possibly in the future upgrade.

I do have a DIY CO2 ready to go right now. Is it worth running in the 0.5 wpg tank? Or will the plants not usre it at all. I had it going in there earlier to try it out and see how it all works and found it didn't last very long at all and wasn't really that consitent. Not sure if consistency matters with DIY. I have 2x2L bottles hooked to one reactor. Maybe I have a leak if it doesn't last vey long...

[Jaykit]

I would not recommend increasing light first. More light without CO2 = algae. If you are planning to upgrade down the road, start w. CO2.

I agree that algae would take over and take all the available nutrients if the lights were upgraded only. So, would not having the extra light/co2 for the plants to demand more nutrients also cause the algae to take over if ferts are added?

I do have a DIY CO2 ready to go right now. Is it worth running in the 0.5 wpg tank?

Hook the diy co2 up to the 1.5wpg tank and dose excel on the 0.5wpg tank.

[jvision]

Once when my CO2 canister ran out, and I didn't want to go to the store for a while, I just set up a DIY using a 4L jug (on a med-hi light 55g) AND added Excel. The Excel was added to make up for the majorly inconsistant supply from the DIY.

A 2L jug will last a week or so, where a 4L jug will last at least 10 days, IME.

I've found consistant CO2 is the best, so hook up 2 at a time and alternate when you change them out.

Edited February 24, 2010 by jvision

[timbruun]

I have 2x2L hooked up in a Y to the same reactor. So I should put that in the 1.5wpg tank? Along with excel? At what rate? Should I use excel in the 0.5 wpg tank? I'm more worried with that one with the vals that I had melt already.

I thought that DIY CO2 was supposed to last longer than that.