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Planning New Build


cullymoto
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Hello all, thanks for the look.

I'm in process of building a new home with a fish room!

Looking to gain some input as I'm forging new territory on a 150gal plus sump, and I could use some opinions on "the plan".

So without drawing a picture basically;

Show tank has a large diameter drain drilled into the bottom center of the tank. Drain goes vertical to valve - elbow - then horizontal run all the way over to another elbow going up to - valve into the bottom of the smaller sump tank. Both tanks would be at the same level on a rack.

In my head, with this setup both tanks would have an equalized water level. Correct me if I'm wrong, or you don't understand my wording.

There would be two pumps in the sump pushing water to fall into the show tank at each end. This would both lower the water level in the sump, and raise the water level in the tank. In turn this would cause the water in the show tank to flow into the sump, at the same rate that the pumps empty the sump correct?

One of the big concerns for me is power outage, but the two tanks should just equalize I think.

I'm not interested in a "regular" overflow, because fish poops etc. lay on the bottom of the tank. With the drain In the bottom center and returns falling into each end the debris should be swept to the drain.

I've yet to talk to any tank builders, so I don't know if a tank with that kind of capacity can be drilled on the bottom etc. I'm just fishing for ideas, and asking others if their understanding of hydro dynamics works like mine does.

Thanks for your time, and I would appreciate any input you might have.

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You are probably looking for an engineer. What you are suggesting should work in theory. You will still need to be able to adjust your flow either with a recirculation line or adjustable pump so that you don't bottleneck at the drain. If you can get the flow in the tank to get crap to hit the drain is another question :)

I suspect that you won't have issues with the drilling part if you have the tank supported along the entire bottom. There might be issues with bulkhead sealing. They must have specs for them to check?

With the drain on the bottom, will you be running substrate? If yes, what is the plan to keep from sucking substrate and then clogging the line... And on that topic... It is gonna be hell cleaning that, plumbing snake? :)

Edited by cainechow
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Thank you for the response, I appreciate your input.

Particularly on the bottleneck aspect. I hadn't considered that issue.

Two questions answered in one, I'm doing a sand + ecopoxy mix. I've done it before with excellent results. It looks like a regular sand bottom aquarium but is water proof and hard as concrete. The best of a bare bottom tank, with the look of sand. I'll be giving it a gentle slope toward the drain as well.

Cleaning the line... Well. I would use threaded fittings after valves so the entire line can be pulled and cleaned without draining the tank. But that's always a PITA .... Can't be any worse than my canister filters currently are. ... Right? Please! Lol.

I'll have to make sure the drain line is as big as I can get away with to avoid the bottleneck, I will be using some sort of grate (permanent coffee filter?) something fish safe that fits snugly, but will be removable should it ever need maintenance.

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In swimming pools, they have a couple drains (or more) tied into a common manifold or sump, this provides safety against entrapment (meaning, kids can't get sucked to the bottom of the pool by the drain - the pressure is releaved by the other drain line). This might be a good idea for you tank, as well - you won't have to worry about flooding (as much) if one line gets clogged, and the suction on the drain lines won't be as bad.

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