johnsmith Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 I have a 10g with 3wpg and I'm planning on adding CO2. The tank currently has cabomba(which I'm not impressed with) and a couple of crypts. What would be a good fertilizer to use in this tank? I don't know any readings and I don't plan on buying any extra test kits for iron, etc. Is it possible to just get one bottle of ferts that will be beneficial? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milan Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Considering the tank size and your reluctance to test , I would sugest you EI (Estimative Index) fertilization schedule. For ferts you will need KH2PO4, KNO3, and TE mix. This can be found at a hydroponic shop (ie. Bumper Crop in Calgary). However, you will still need some tests, namely KH and pH, to maintain the proper CO2 level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsmith Posted December 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 However, you will still need some tests, namely KH and pH, to maintain the proper CO2 level. That's alright, I have those tests. Thanks I'll look up the EI. Do most people with planted tanks test for all the different nutrients or do they just dose ferts a few times a week? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milan Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Do most people with planted tanks test for all the different nutrients or do they just dose ferts a few times a week? Depends what fertilization method you decide to go by. Nowadays, mostly in use among aquarists are PPS (Perpetual Preservation System), and EI (Estimative Index). Both work well, but have some differences in the approach. This is just a brief overview, but there is a lot more to it. PPS: Dosing based on periodically measured residual levels of NO3 and PO4. Water changes on per need basis. Fert sources KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4, and TE mix. EI: Dosing based on predetermined fert quantities. No need for testing (except KH and pH), but suggested weekly massive (50%) water changes. Fert sources KNO3, KH2PO4, and TE mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Based on my experience, I'd use the EI method. Dose 1/16 tsp of KNO3 and 1/32 tsp of KH2PO4 on the day of the WC, and every other day after that. Dose Traces (~2mL) on opposite days. A 10 gal w. gravel and decor will probably hold ~7-8 gal. I'd do 5 gal WC per week. BTW, Cabomba does better in cooler water. Unless you're keeping anything in there that thrives at higher temps (Betta, Cardinals), then try keeping the temp at 72-74F. HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanker Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 I 'wing it' but I get away with it 'cause I'm still a noob . I use Flourish Tabs and Jobe's Fern root sticks and they seem to be doing 'enough'. My plants are going gang-busters and I am running just barely over 2wpg and about 10-15 ppm CO2. With your smaller tank size it's going to be a bit tricky to keep everything quo. The higher light levels, shallow tank, and only about 7-8 gallons of actual water to disolve anything in... well... have fun . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsmith Posted December 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 With your smaller tank size it's going to be a bit tricky to keep everything quo. The higher light levels, shallow tank, and only about 7-8 gallons of actual water to disolve anything in... well... have fun . Well I was starting to think this could turn out okay, till I read that. :P I see your point though, I guess a 10g doesn't leave a lot of room for error. I'm starting to think this might not be worth the trouble. I used to have sand and shells, without even a light, and it was boring but clean. This could end up being a mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanker Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 Didn't mean to 'scare you off' of it... it's a challenge, that's all; and you nailed the reason... less room for error. Fortunately you have one major advantage... plants are generally not fussy! Go ahead, screw up... whatever... they'll die and then you get to experiment with other plants! It's not like they 'feel' (although some people here may take offense to that statement) so go ahead... plant, grow, kill, replant, grow, and above all... learn. If you put too much of something in the water the plants just won't use it, and if you don't put enough, they'll either complain or work around it... Go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 One other way to go, is to get the Seachem line. It's expensive, but VERY easy to measure. Their droppers dose 1mL at a time, so it's easy to start slow and work your way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garhan Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 Hi John, I have a 10 gallon planted running now for several months. I have been using a combination of PPS and EI with both DIY Co2 and Excel. I know this may seem complicated as to how I do this setup. But it is more of an experiment. I drive my ferts very hard and run 7.6 watts on this tank. So there are lots of ways to do small tanks successfully. To keep it simple is the best and with 3 watts per gallon either EI or PPS will work for you with Excel as the carbon booster. Keep in mind that in your filter you will only run sponges and Bio rings, no other chemical or biological media is needed. Especially so for charcoal media (not required and pulls out ferts). Give it a go, you'll really enjoy playing around. Read the info that is pinned on Plants 101, you will need that as a base to target ferts and carbon levels (carbon level may or may not be necassary depending on which system you use- C02 pressurized/DIY or Excel. Enjoy. Garhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aquanerd Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 I think it’s always best to under dose at first also. If your plants start to show signs of a deficiency then add a bit more. Find the Deficiency's at Chuck's Planted I think it’s the easiest way to 'start'. I'm sure I’ll be corrected or something, but that’s how I started, and when your ready you can start to test the water perimeters. Also just remember to do your water changes! Good luck :thumbs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garhan Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 (edited) That would lean towards PPS method. Give only as much as required and add more of short falls. Edited December 8, 2005 by Garhan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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