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Any experience with any of these 3 plants..


webmoose
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Crinum calamistratum - I assume it is very high light / sensitive plant.. Anyone have success / experience with this plant they can share with me?

Bacopa monnieri - I've had success with Bacopa in the past is this an easy variety? Do the leaves stay small?

Rotala rotundifolia - Looks really nice but the plant I saw has tiny leaves. .Does it look nice with the bigger leaves?

Let me know if you recommend any of the above 3 plants or if you recommend against them etc.. I was thinking of picking some of them up.

I have 60 Gallon / medium lighting / planted community tank / no CO2 / All my plants that I do have are very happy....

Moose

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I have Rotala rotundifolia in my 45 and it's doing quite well. When I bought it there were five 'stalks' all about 8 inches ling and leaves between 1/4 and 3/4 inch and varying wildly. In some cases there were entire pieces of the main stalk that had no leaves at all. This plant had been traumatized to say the least.

Since planting 6 weeks ago, I have five stalks that are between 12-15 inches high (it is 16" from the gravel to the waterline and one is nearly touching the surface), and have branched off in many (15+) new shoots. I also have one 'runner' that has come out about 3 inches and is now started to turn 'up'. The leaves are very consistent at about 3/4" long and fairly slender. Once the stalks reach the top of the tank, I'll be pinching them down to the point they started growing in my tank, and replanting the tops. That way the only portion that grows in my tank will be what has grown in my tank and the consistency of the plant's growth is a little testament to the consistency of my tank.

FYI: My water is 77 degrees, Ph 7, KH 4 degrees, CO2 13 ppm. Ferts are a couple dozen fishes (and the pleco's sleeping place is right next to the Rotala, and that's where ALL his feces ends up - real scientific, huh? :rolleyes: ) and Flourish Tabs (1/2 of a tab in the middle of the 'stand') with Jobes Fern Sticks elsewhere in the tank. Running 2wpg over it for light and I try to keep it simple.

In the picture you can see quite clearly at about the "half way up" mark is where the leaves go away to almost nothing, that's when I got the plant... since then, with proper care and 'feeding' it's done quite well, and all those other shoots are new since then. I was actually surprised by this plant's resiliency and I expected a loss of at least on of the stalks simply because there could not have been more then three or four threads of root on them, yet they are doing quite well, so I guess it's 'enough'.

post-36-1134318588_thumb.jpg

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The nice thing about stem plants is that as long as there's a leaf or two, it'll grow! R. rotundifolia also gets nice red coloring when it's got a slight excess of NO3 to feed on, and nice lights.

Chris, you might start to see them red-up as they get closer to the top.

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Actually, they are starting at the very tippy tops... hard to see in that picture, tho, but the last few leaves on each stalk have a bit of reddish brown to it... honestly I thought it may have been a bad thing (burning/deficiency??) so I didn't want to mention it. :lol:

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Actually, it's the other way around. Lower levels of NO3 will cause more red color.

That's interesting because it's usually when I miss a couple of days adding ferts that my Red Tiger Lotus' start to green up. Same w. Sunset Hygro and Ozelot Swords.... :huh:

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I was surprised too. It is mentioned in the February edition of the Barr Report, page 6-7.

Given the wide range before inhibition occurs, it seems prudent to add more than what the plants need. This allows a large buffer in dosing and routines for the aquarist and makes the need for test kits obsolete. Though testing can be used to monitor and dose nutrients, this also has a high degree of trade offs as well. Past aquarist have done this for many years. An exception is where the aquarist will want to have more red coloration and maintains low NO3 levels.

However, I came across a thread (can't find it now) on APC where Tom says that increased levels of PO4 under moderate NO3 will also encourage red color. So, this may be your case ...

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However, I came across a thread (can't find it now) on APC where Tom says that increased levels of PO4 under moderate NO3 will also encourage red color. So, this may be your case ...

That could very well be the case. Right now I'm dosing just about as much KH2PO4 as I am KNO3. They tell me that Green Spot Algae is the result of low PO4.... I'm not so sure that's the case in my tank. PO4 is up, GSA is still there - tho not as bad.

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  • 1 month later...

:lol:

And I'm sure they think you're just swell, too. They probably would love to hug you and thank you for getting them the heck out of that LFS tank.

Some of my best friends are plants... the rest are fish ;)

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Bacopa Monnieri is one of my fav plants. When I got it, was maybe 6 inches tall, now it's all the way to the top of my hex tank, which is about 24-28".

Leaves stay smallish.

-Hideo

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