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Remove FILTER for planted tank?


Golfnut
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Hi there,

I have a planted 45 gallon and I was thinking of removing my HOB filter entirely and just have a powerhead with co2 intake as the only form of water movement.

Think my fish will live? I would only have baby mbunas 10 or so (1/2 inch) and 1 small pleco and maybe one yo-yo loach.

Plants are... lots of vals, and cryptocorynes.

Andrew

Edited by Golfnut
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If it's an heavily planted tank with low stocking levels, this could work. However, even on my HEAVILY planted 55 gal, I run a filter on it rated for a 60 gal. Biological filtration is still important IMO.

For the most part, Val and Crypt aren't huge photosynthesizers (don't even know if that's a word!), so your O2 will likely not saturate.

If you are going to remove all 'filtration', I'd definitely add some fast-growing stem plants. They feed much more from the water column than do Val and Crypt. Or, go with some floating plants - the smallest of which I'd recommend is Lima major (giant duckweed). Frogbit or Silvania would be better IMO.

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The purpose of filters in planted tanks is firstly to provide home for beneficial bacteria colonies in sufficient manner (biological-BioMax or similar), secondly to "catch" any debris (mechanical-foam), and thirdly to do a cleanup of medications (occasional use only) after potential treatments (active carbon).

Powerheads do not satisfy all three, and actually are not meant to be filtration devices in any medium to larger volume tanks, as your is. You may use it as an addition to your filter for CO2 dispersion, or water movement.

A rule of thumb for selecting filter for planted tanks is it's flow. It needs to be 4 to 5 times your tank volume per hour.

Edited by Milan
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If you are concerned about your fry being taken into the filter, then I would suggest you cover the intake with a prefilter (sponge used in a sponge filter will likely fit over your intake)

I also agree with the filter volume statement as it is a basic rule of thumb that is applied to most planted tanks.

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