johnsmith Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 Just wondering if anyone has used the generic ammonia from walmart for a fishless cycle? It doesn't list ingredients, but it's the cheap stuff so I'm assuming they haven't added anything to it. I haven't shaken it yet, but I'll do that when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 I have found the least expensive ammonia is usually pure/no additives. Quote>>It doesn't list ingredients, but it's the cheap stuff so I'm assuming they haven't added anything to it...I haven't shaken it yet, but I'll do that when I get home<< Good thinking. Addatives added / will be listed. Just like cholrine/bleach... the purest is the cheapest. no addatives. Keep us updated. ok. Smokey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsmith Posted October 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 Well it turns out I don't have generic ammonia I have Goldex. I did a google search & found out it's 5% ammonia, 95% water. My next question is this: all the fishless cycle articles talk about ammonia readings in ppm, but my test kit only gives mg/L. Does anyone know how to covert this? or what readings I am looking for in mg/L? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chloeclose Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 I believe the numbers transfer directly... like 2.0 ppm is the same as 2mg/L. Sounds like you got the right stuff!! Good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vallisneria Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 I believe ppm and mg/L are the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 mg/l = milligrams per liter is the same as ppm = parts per million. The nice thing about metrics. \eg: cc = cubic centimeters = 1 gram 1 liter water = 1 kilogram / 2.2 ponds. The ammonia _ Goldex - the good stuff. 5% ammonia is as good as it gets for the general public use. You want to add the ammonia to the tank water until you get a reading of 5ppm, on the test kit.. This will kick start the cycle. Ammonia is food for the bacteria[1st]. A nitite test kit will start to register in a couple of days. Nitrites - food for the 2nd bacteria. Smokey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vallisneria Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 Just a little tip When adding the ammonia wait a bit(10mins) before testing. That way the ammonia will get distributed and you will get a more accurate reading. I forgot to do this and ended up adding too much the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey Posted October 21, 2004 Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 Thanks for the excellant detail. Where would we be without you Val. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsmith Posted October 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2004 Thank you, that's helpful. On a side note: how is it that ppm correlate directly with mg/L? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey Posted October 22, 2004 Report Share Posted October 22, 2004 Same measurement. EX: the difference between 36 inches and one yard :smokey: One Liter = 1000 grams or [cc]. 1 Mili = 1000th of a gram or [cm] 1000 x 1000 = 1,000,000. = part per million METRIC = everything is based on units of 10. Hope my math is correct. Smokey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsmith Posted October 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2004 Taken from the pinned article on the fishless cycle: "then add that amount daily until the nitrite spikes. Once the nitrite is visible, cut back the daily dose of ammonia to ½ the original volume" So, do I cut back as soon as I notice nitrate, or when it spikes? What is considered a spike? Also, what I'm not getting about the ppm = mg/L is that some "parts" would weigh more that others, wouldn't they? I.e. does a part of ammonia weigh the same as a part of nitrite? Does this have to do with the difference b/w weight and mass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokey Posted October 25, 2004 Report Share Posted October 25, 2004 John: Yes, as soon as your NO2 test kit starts to regIster - cut back on the amount of NH3.... you have been adding to the tank -- to 1/2. The Nitrites: are a sign that the first bacteria are becoming established. ThIS bacteria will continue to grow and multiply, excellant!! This bacteria "EAT" ammonia. This is their food! ... Nitrites are their waste. ( can you say ""poop") Nitrites; the waste product of the first bacteria ... will continue to increase; as long as there is a food souce. [a.k.a NH3's]. BTW -- NITRITES ARE VERY TOXIC! More so than NH3's.!! :tongue: After a point in time you / your test kit will register a decline in the NO2's. This is because the second bacteria have started to "develop".. Their "FOOD" is NO2's; the waste product of the first bacteris:wub: [A.K.A. NITRITES ] A NITRATRE test kit wil tell you this..... NO3's...... will start to register. This is a sign that both bacteria have colonized, established themself, and started to reproduce.[multipy]. The "second bacteria" are the ones that consume NITRITES... YUM YUM :smokey: :smokey: > like a child in a candy store... Smokey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtac Posted November 21, 2004 Report Share Posted November 21, 2004 When you do add NH3, make sure it's detergent and scent free. Do not exceed 1mg/L (ppm) as higher NH3 levels will hamper the bacteria's ability to oxidize NH3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rahim101 Posted November 22, 2004 Report Share Posted November 22, 2004 http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/fishless_cycling.php http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/cycling.php Here are a few articles that may help!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James (Western Canada) Posted April 8, 2007 Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 Here is a post from a thread on the aquatic plants digest on units. http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/mont...5/msg00042.html The Amazing Metric System <http://ts.nist.gov/ts/htdocs/200/202/mpo_home.htm> CGS = centimeter-gram-second system Volume “L” is the abbreviation for “Liter” which is also 1000 cubic centimeters which is written as cm^3 (never use cc!) “mL” = milli-Liter = 1/1000 of a liter = 1 cm^3 Length “m” = meter “cm” = centi-meter = 1/100 m Mass “g” = gram “mg” = milli-gram = 1/1000 of a gram 1000 g = 1 kg = 1 kilo-gram Time ”s” = second Density of water is 1 g/cm^3 1 Liter of water = 1,000 cm^3 of water = 1,000 g of water = 1 kg of water 1 m^3 of water = 100 x 100 x 100 cm^3 = 1,000,000 cm^3 = 1,000 kg = 1 tonne (metric ton) 1 mg of substance dissolved in 1 Liter of water = = 1 mg/L = = 1 mg substance in 1,000 g water = = 1/1,000 g substance in 1,000 g water = = 1 part substance in 1,000 x 1,000 parts water = 1 part per million (ppm) Quiz: 1) 1 g of Potassium in 200 L of water gives you how many mg/L of Potassium? A: 1000 mg/200 L = 5 mg/L = 5 ppm 2) 1/4 tsp. of Potassium in 55 gallons of water gives you how many ppm of Potassium? A: I have no idea. 3) How much Potassium Sulfate does your 55 Gallon plant tank need? A: A big pinch every couple of days. Try more or less and see what happens. (and let’s not get into how much K is in 1 g of K2SO4!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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