sharuq1

I don't have personal experience with the mH ones but I do have a small pc made from there and it is pure crap. I had also considered getting mH from them as well until I was told by another hobbyist that they were not really made "up to spec", that there had been fires and that they were almost if not totally impossible to find parts for. After hearing that I decided to look elsewhere. Just my 2 cents.

Yuppers <------reef addict, MTS "sufferer"

Didn't even know the fuzzy dwarf came in that color, it's gorgeous! Which tank is it in? How does it get along with it's tank mates? Do you find the uv sterilizer helpful?

great pics. Do you use only the 2 powerheads for flow? Are you using a Ca reactor? I love the last pic, what type of dwarf lion is that?

Welcome to the forums!

welcome to the forums

welcome to the forums

I believe Kelly at the Reefe Shoppe can order in bottles of pods.

A 35 can work for a sw setup. Be aware though that if it has ever had copper medications in it that leftover copper can kill invertebrates/corals. If in doubt you can buy a copper test kit to find out. Copper is bound up in calcium, so if it is in doubt just make sure you get any hardwater stains and calcerous algae cleaned out of the tank. (vinegar works well for this) Costs will also be dependant on what you intend to keep in your tank. An FO (fish only) is cheapest, then there is FOWLR (fish only with live rock) which is beneficial due to the addition of the LR as bio-filtration, and of course there is the reef setup. Reef is by far the most expensive and IMO also the most beautiful. LR is also quite pricey, as is lighting. There are different types of ways to setup a reef tank as well depending on what you want to keep (SPS require more light and flow for example). Some people also choose to have a tank with just LR and inverts, like shrimp and hermit crabs. Clownfish are great for newbies, and I would also recommend royal grammas. I do not recommend damsels, though they are very pretty they usually get to be quite aggressive as they age and can be a real pita later on. There is much discussion on whether you should use tap water in reef tanks or not. My experience was that I started out with tap water and ended up with a lot of pest algae due to the phosphates and other crud that was in the water supply. I then switched to RO from a store and later bought an RO/DI unit to keep water costs per month down. It was well worth it in my opinion. However, different people have different experiences and there are lots of very nice tanks using tap water. Make sure to use a water treatment such as Prime or Amquel on tap water, don't use one of those treatments that have aloe as an ingredient in a sw tank. (overflows the skimmer) Also, for a 35g it may be small enough to just use water changes instead of a skimmer. If it was my tank I would still get a skimmer for it, but if cost is a big issue you can just stock lightly and use regular weekly or bi-weekly WC's. These can range from $100- ridiculou$ Don't buy a seaclone, they are crap. If you want to go for a cheaper model that still works, a coralife super skimmer would work, model65 (can often find these used for cheap, I use one on my 48g) ~$105 or less if you find used. There is also the AquaC Remora ~$150-$265 depending on model, the deltec ($293-$555 depending on model). Here's some links from www.canreef.com (awesome site for sw) Changing from fresh to salt more helpful things What would you like to keep in your tank? Do you have any other equipment for it that you can use? Also if you are planning on keeping coral/inverts in the tank your salinity will need to be a bit higher than if you were only keeping fish. Most reefers keep it at 1.025-1.027 This doesn't mean it should fluctuate between those, but pick a salinity and stay at that. Most people I know keep it at 1.025 Keeping SW is a continuous learning experience, and really a lot of fun...not to mention highly addictive. Try not to feel daunted by the plethora of info. Just keep it simple starting out and you should do just fine. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Someone asked me if it is possible to dye drift wood and if so what with. I told him I thought not, but you never know. Can you? If so, what with?

beautiful! Love the yellow ones

welcome !

48g slideshow

That is my mandarin fish. He is by far my favorite fish in the tank. Mandarins are saltwater fish and need to have a tank (with live rock) running for 6 months to a year before they can be added as they (usually) only eat the live food (copepods) in and on the live rocks. If you are interested in moving into saltwater check out www.canreef.com to start researching what you would like and ask lots of questions. If you need any help also feel free to pm me. There are a number of sw buffs on this forum as well who I'm sure have lots of info. in their brains to pick. I have pictures of my sw in my signature if you want to look

Personally, if it was me I would probably sell everything alive and start over again as 14hrs is a long way off. That being said if you are up for a lot of work you might be able to put everything alive into one or two really large rubbermaid containers (You can find them practically as big as that 33g tank), buy a battery operated airator or use a regular airator or powerhead at the surface of the water with one of those portable battery packs with 3 prong outlets and airate the water that way. Make sure fish have not eaten 24 hours before making the trip. Another option would be the more labor intensive and do it the way shippers do: double bag each fish with pure oxygen and clean H20 (make sure they have not eaten for at least 24 hours prior or they will foul the bags fast), put these into an insulated styrofoam container and if it is chilly include a heat pack. If I was choosing this option I would bring along a couple of the rubbermaid containers I mentioned and use those as temporary tanks at the new place (with your filter) until I got the tanks up and running again. I think there are some people that say fasting the fish for 24 hrs is best but I have also heard others say for 48 hrs (especially with messy ammonia producers).

You could cover it with crafters mesh until he gets bigger. It will need a toothbrush taken to it to clean it off, but would do the job.

Welcome to the forum.

I've got some really long big bristleworms in my tank, and quite a few little ones as well. So far I have not seen coral damage that I could attribute to them, and they are awesome cleaner uppers. That being said though, my royal gramma looked like a dog that had found a porcupine a couple days ago. I did not remove the prickles, as I think I might do more harm than good, and today it looks like they have already dropped out. Will be keeping an eye on him. I believe one of the types of bristleworms that you need to look out for look like these: eunicid worm=bad news, watch for the 4 antennae, good bristles don't have 4 bearded fireworm by Mark Westermeir another fireworm

I just noticed your tank edges are a bit bigger than your stand. Everyone correct me here if I am wrong, but if it was my tank I would put a board underneath it over top the stand so that it takes the whole weight on the edges.

Ooh nice tank. What are you going to put in there?

Good advice. I started off with a 14g biocube, and while I don't regret it, I think if I was to do it over again I would have started with a 30-48g. Mid-range, not so big as to be overwhelming, but still large enough that there is some leeway if things go wrong. Then you can add in whatever you want because there is more room and once you have decided what upgrades you will want there is some room to do them. (sump, skimmer, lighting options, etc.)

Welcome to the dark side... *cough*....I mean the forums...

Yeah, I think it would be a nice addition too

Interesting site. I wonder if the pond pH increaser would really be safe in a reef tank? If anyone knows someone who has actually used it, they should post on here.

I like your enthusiasm! Looks very similar to my first sw tank a few months in. Good advice. If you take a scraper to the back wall and siphon off all the green crud off of it, it would be beneficial (and look nicer). Red slimey stuff would be cyanobacteria. Bryopsis is a green feathery filamentous algae, alot like green hair algae (gha). Real pita to get rid of and will eventually smother your corals as well as looking like h^%$. Pluck out as much as you can and take boiling water in a syringe over the areas it is growing and that should help kill it off. If you want some plant life in there you can probably get some chaeto off of a local hobbyist. (Or if you're in Red Deer, grab some from me.) If you fishing line it to a rock it won't float all over the tank and will provide a small refuge for pods to reproduce. There are other sw plants in existence of course, but sea grass is very difficult to find in Canada and I think caulerpa is just plain invasive and ugly. (but that is just my opinion). Also, joining canreef would be very beneficial. Tons of experienced sw ppl over there who can give good advice. There are a few on there that know a ton about seahorses in particular. More brains to pick for salty stuff The fake flowers probably make an ok hitching post, but you might want to add something else for your pony to hitch on as well. Like a coral skeleton/something hard and skinny he can get ahold of. Tell us some more about your setup: Is your seahorse eating frozen mysis? Do you have a skimmer? How often do you do a water change/how large is the WC? How big is your tank? Are you dosing anything? (eg. calcium, iodine, etc.)