johnsmith

That's a good call, I wasn't really thinking about all the extra weight. I just know he doesn't want to have to replant everything. I think that's probably the better option though. And yes, I know what a dust pan is. I also recognize a vacuum and, well, I can't think of anything else -roll-

When moving a moderately planted tank to someone else's house would you recommend removing all the plants or leaving them in the gravel? (It's a 90g w. vals & crypts & root tabs.)

If you upload them to photobucket you can edit the picture and for changing the size they give you three options. The one for internet/email is pretty good.

Sounds like good news so far!

The reason I ask is that I'm leaning towards getting a 14g nano and I'm trying to determine what extra costs are going to pile up.

What type of water are you using in your nano?

Actually, I would have to sell my 90 just to afford a nano

My wife really wants me to get rid of my fw 90g and replace it with one of those cubes on the counter at Golds. I like the idea and it seems like half the people here have made the switch, but I'm still hesitant to go through all the trouble of getting rid of what I have and starting completely from scratch. Here are some of the issues that are making me hesitant: 1. I have a feeling the price will escalate. The tank itself + live rock is expensive for me but after selling my complete 90g set up the difference should be minimal or hopefully even. What other costs will there be? Is the salt expensive? Other chemicals? Powerheads? ect. 2. I know bigger is always better for newbies, which makes me think learning on one of those small tanks could be a mistake, possibly an expensive one. What will maintenance entail? 3. I'm sure there are other issues that will come up after I have a tank, live rock and salt water. For a beginner like me is there anything else I should consider before taking the plunge?

If it's the little clip then a new one should be able to squeeze right into play, with a little pressure.

I have one by himself in a 10g with some lucky bamboo sticking out the top and some najas grass.

Here's another thread in which the ClorAm was mentioned: Thread.

If you're using firefox right click on the image tags on this page (post #16) and "view image". If you're not using firefox, I don't know, maybe you're out of luck.

To answer your question I'd say change the water as often as possible and skip mixing the old tank water. Basically you aren't trying to establish a viable system you're just trying to keep the water as clean a possible. I wouldn't change more than 50% at a time though because you don't want the parameters to fluctuate too much. I'd suggest 10 - 20% every couple of days or 30% every few days. One small fish shouldn't foul up the water too much as long as you don't feed it too much. While it's in a tub I'd feed it very sparingly. As for the stocking levels, you should inquire about how to manage this tank long term

Just a reminder The first one's free :P

I had a pair of brevis that spawned several times. I never shook the shell I just realized there were fry once they left the shell and started darting around. After a few weeks of swimming around the tank the parents started picking them off one-by-one. I never separated them and only had one fry survive. I think you may have seen it before My suggestion would be to separate them from their parents once they start exploring the tank. In the meantime I'd suggest grabbing a salt shaker the next time you get the urge to shake something silly :P

That fish is eating a hybrid. That's the answer to your question. Oscars aren't hybrids -- they eat hybrids. The problem is that the more people who have hybrids the more likely it is that someone isn't going to mention it or remember that their fish is one when it breeds.

I would suggest treating the main tank with salt and a high temp -- 86*. According to this the betta can handle that temp. That isn't an expensive treatment even on your size tank. The only potential problem is that you're going to have to increase surface agitation which could be rough for the betta. Or get a good bubble wand, that should do the trick.

Used or Golds

At Riverfront they just use a piece of styrofoam and it works well. There's isn't even painted.

You, my friend, are a genious. :bow: The filter is now working and hopefully that means the heater's okay. Now when I have some time I'll have to see if I can stick a pin into the powerhead somewhere and I'll have to get out my old filter to see if I can get that working again - assuming I haven't thrown it out. I also have an AC 802 powerhead that stopped working (in a totally different location). Maybe my fortune in turning around.

A while ago I had a small AC filter quit on me and I assumed it was just b/c it was old - I got it used. Today I did a water change and when I turned the powerbar back on the powerhead was working but the AC filter was not. I turned the bar off and on again and now nothing works. The outlet is working and the filter doesn't work when I plug it into another plug. I guess it's the powerbar that did the damage. Are these things permanently wrecked? I now now have a tank w. no filter and possibly no heater - it's a stealth so it doesn't have an indicator light. I touched it and it isn't warm so it could be gone also. This is the same tank I'm treating for camallanus. Anyone have an extra filter & heater for a 25g for sale? Anyone have a large dose of clove oil - that could be another way to solve my current problems :shifty:

I should get a chance to go out tonight but in the meantime the stuff I have here is: Aquarium Producs: Fluke-Tabs for: anchor worms, tapeworms... Over the ingredients list is a sticker that says in Cali it's known to cause cancer and birth defects. The active ingredients are: methyl-benz.-carbamate and dimethyl phosphonate. Any thoughts on this stuff?

I got 36" 39w T8s at a hydroponics shop for $30. That included the bulb and the ballast but no reflector. Your best bet is to find a hydro shop and see what they have.

I have some tabs at home that are for parasites but I've never used them because they say they could affect the nitrification process in the tank. I think they have metro as the main ingredient, but I don't remember for sure. Since I have those on hand I guess I'll give them a try. I only have enough to do one tank. If you can figure out what I'm talking about by that description then do you think I should: 1. start with the 25g tank that is most definitely infected since this is where the infected fish came from or 2. use that on the planted 90g that the fish was only in for 30min since the plants will help with nitrification anyways? Later on I'll have to hit some stores and the UFA. There's one close to me but I'm not sure if it's just offices or if they sell stuff (Glenmore Trail & Elbow).

"Camallanus Worms: An Aquariasts Worst Nightmare" -- just what I wanted to hear Thanks for the article, now I know a medication that seems to work. Until I find it, this poor girl is living in a bucket.