Majestic_Aquariums

If it was me (I haven't done tons of these mind you) I would just use the gasket. This should work as well as anything. Tighten the bulkhead good, but as mentioned, make sure the glass is good and clean. If you do use silicone as well, I would use just a bit on the gasket, and then tighten in up in place. Maybe a bit around the perimeter as well, but I don't really see it doing anything beneficial.

I think GE brand silicone is preferred. Maybe check to see if it is aquarium safe-it all smells the same to me! I would think the bulkhead threads would break before the glass. Hand tight plus 1/4 turn should do.

You don't have to build an overflow, just a vertical pipe in the bulkhead so if something does happen you only loose a few gallons or something. Good suggestion Migetwaiter. Maybe a standpipe would be a bit safer, at least not all the water can drain on you.

I have used playsand before, and I would just siphon the stuff right up. If the large tube is long enough, it doesn't suck up and out of the tank. (like 20"-the reg. pythons are way shorter) I have 15 gal. of DARK grey/black slate chips I brought back from B.C. Although they look sharp, they aren't really. May not be that good for sand sifters, but I was thinking trout then. Price was right, and I gave it all a really good rinse in the mountain stream as I collected, so it won't need as much working over. I don't know if it would be that good for plecos or cichlids that dig and spit gravel though. Maybe try out the pool filter sand-it won't cost that much, and seems to be proven

Well, I can offer a few suggestions if you like. If you want the interior finished the same as the exterior, just use the same stuff! You have a few options if you aren't spraying. Varathane seems popular (comes in water-base too, dries quick) Urathane is another alternative. (used for hardwood flooring, along with poly-urathane) Try to avoid "varnish" it's old-school, and doesn't hold up as well. I would tackle it in a two-step process, stain first, then finish. Alcohol or oil based stains are easier to apply as a rule, (as opposed to a water-based stain) Allow you stain to dry thouroughly, ans then add the finish (usually at least two coats, the lighter the better, sanding in-between) It's like anything else, you get out of it what you are willing to put into it-time vs. satisfaction. It's well worth it in the end to spend the extra time, and not rush the finishing process. This is the last thing to do, and the first thing people see. Lemme know if I can be of any other help. (one other thing, a few fans in there can make a huge difference in the life-span of any finish if you are anticipating high humidity. This will also help with the tank temps.)

Drilling glass@Everything2.com Looks like a good source for starters. THe bits are quite expensive depending on size. Good luck! Rob

That tank looks great! I cannot get the full tank shot to expand any bigger, but if there's going to be a photo contest, I would vote for this shot! :thumbs:

:welcome: Good luck with the 125!

Nice work Nev! Guys like you put guys like me out of work! :eh: Keep those pics coming! Rob

I wouldn't pull a permit for this type of a job. As mentioned, there are no structural mods. to the house. The builder may know-but may not want to say one way or another for liability reasons.

The 6000 lbs. will be supported by 8-2X12s, all sitting on a triple 2X12 beam. I will be adding 2 teleposts in the basement as well. The only concern I have had on the issue is the fact the footprint is spread ove 11 feet. All houses tend to have settling in the middle (one end of the tank will be up against an exterior wall) so I have to get the base FLAT over the entire 11 feet so there isn't any un-even stresses on the tank. That can be done by cranking up the teleposts in the basement, and then shimming the base of the stand to level prior to filling. (BTW, you can anticipate the stand weighing almost 300lbs. by itself, the tank would be at leasst 200, and then equipment. (say 70lbs.) Add to it 1440 lbs. or so of water (factored on 175 gal.) You will be a min. of 2000lbs. But the dimensions you are quoting equal 135 gal. tank

Banned? Are you kidding? :eh: Maybe I can find it then. I know what you mean about the concerns. It is a bit concerning for most. When I inquired about a 230 gal. for sale @ Franco's in Calgary, the woman asked me where I wanted to put it. So I told her on the main level of the house. She laughed hysterically, and made sure she told her husband across the store (by yelling?) They both got a good laugh, saying that it would be impossible. :bang1: Guess what I have on the main floor of my house? Not only that, but when I put my 330 gal. (with mega-stand) finishing out @ over 6000 lbs. on the main level, I am going to sent them a pic! Although aquariums are alot of weight, wood is alot stronger than most give it credit for. If you plan on setting it up on one of the side walls, chances are very good you will sit on 2 joists. But even if not, you are probably only 6" from the wall, so that will bear load, and then one joist, (are commonly framed about 19 1/4" on center with TJI, 16" with 2X10) plus all the subflooring that ties it all in. You can always locate this joist in the garage with a stud-finder, and support with a couple posts. (I can walk you through this step if you go that route.) At very worst case, the water level may bounce a wee bit if you jumped around in front. Just make sure you have a good, FLAT stand surface for the tank, perhaps styrofoam depending on the tank itself, and level that baby good. Fill it very partially, and you may consider actually "over-levelling" the 4' front of the tank-as you get it full, it will most-likely show a few different readings on your level that what it did empty. By over stressing a wee bit, this should help. Worst case, drain, and compensate for this.

First, a few questions. How old's the house? If you have a bonus room, probably not that old, eh? Was it framed with 2X10's (old school), or the more up to date silent floor (TJI) TJI's are rated for a longer span between beams or walls, as the engineering makes them stronger. Look in the garage, there will be a beam (hopefully) in the ceiling. This will be incredibly strong at this point. IMO (take it for what it's worth) you will be fine. If you want the tank in the middle of the floor, and can locate the point in the bonus room where you are right on top of the beam, no prob. If you are along an exterior wall-great. THe bonus room concept is just as structurally sound as any other part of the house-it's framed that way. Your floor jiosts most-likely run towards the street. It may "bounce" a little less if you put it on the front wall of the room. I think good old RD has a great link to a post on C.F in regards to live/dead weight loads. But I would do it!

I think I will be working :mad: so I cannot make it! Sorry, would have been a good time to shoot the "@#$" Later, Rob

Hey Tanker! I am sure there will be enough to cover 6 sq. ft. I am planning on getting 2-5gal. pails of the stuff. I don't know exactly how long the shelf life will be, but would assume that it will be o.k. as long as the hardener hasn't been added. I really don't know yet, but would assume it will be like other epoxies I have worked with in the past-2 parts to activate. You should consider getting down here when I do mine. I have to get the glass and epoxy from Calgary-might as well pick up glass and build 2! I do need to get to Edmonton in the very near future, Darren @ AquaGiant was good enough to hold 2 24" X 72" pieces of 1/2" glass for me there too. Maybe that will be the 2nd tank to build?

Thanks Doc! That is the stuff I am looking for. I want this thing SOLID, and will have to pre-plan and rough in the plumbing prior to applying the epoxy. Should hopefully build the tank I need for $600 or so in materials. I would then hoopefully have some epoxy left I can sell off to someone else that wants to try one. Will keep you up-dated!

so no takers, eh? That's cool. But, I do think I am giong to try it sooner than later now. Just need to source out the epoxy resin, and a piece of glass. (gotta go 5/8" now.) Plan the plumbing, and get going.

That is cool! Big tank too. I like the combination of both background, and substrate.

What kind of wood is it? Store bought bogwood or the type you picked up and put in? I have both in different tanks-the stuff I found never did completely quit leeching. The bogwood is still a bit, but it has only been in the tank for 5 weeks in a 230 with major waterchanges twice a week. I did however start to like the look-nice and natural. But if I skipped a water change for more than 10 day to 2 weeks, it would get quite dark in a 90 gal. (the wood I found was in this tank) I have read and heard the tannins are good for your tank though.

Sounds like a good idea. Anyone wanna try a few? I really didn't want to get into this project till next year, but maybe sneek it in early fall one weekend. It doesn't have to be 100% complete, but would be good to utilize the weather-got lots of lawn for space. I can always look into the material cost, and factor in the cost/gal. divided up between a few people if that helps. Lemme know-I may consider giving it a go sooner either way! I found a really good deal on styrofoam for rockwork, and have all the concrete stuff. Hopefully the glass I have planned to buy would work, but if not get thicker stuff.

Yeah, right! I think 350 gal. or so is plenty for what I would trust to hold water! Nice though!

Would be cool to try. I bet it isn't too hard to do, either. Just a few bucks, time, and patience. I would like to have all the back and bottom pre-plumbed for UGJ and overflows, so that could make it a bit of a pain to fit the rockwork around. I bet a person could do a large tank for under $500 inc. glass, plywood, and fiberglass. Plumbing, concrete, styrofoam... It all adds up I guess. Would be a unique look though. Got a link to the plans?

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtop...=asc&highlight=

Hey, it's no fun being the only guy in s*#t around here, gotta talk someone else into it as well! I suppose for a 34" high tank, you must need 3/4" glass. Next prob. where to put it!

Cool! You should give this a try Darcy! Then, I can bounce ideas off of you too! I imagine the fiberglass/epoxy costs would add up. But when you compare it to the cost of a prof. tank, it would be compareable. It's not like they have a great re-sale value either!