Callie

its been awhile but does any one know where to find the hydor inline heater, I got one at river front but thats the only place in calgary that i have seen them and they only had one choice of wattage. open top or mesh tops make a big difference. I ended up using window screening and fit it to my tank.

Okay I will Call her and email her... It may be the same person.

You could do lots of water changes with salt and slime coat. Or if it doesn't go away I have use mela fix and pima fix in the past or you can use the fungus cure in the boxes made by i think API this stuff will turn you water floresent green. I only did half treatment then finished with with water changes and salt and then it cleared up a week later.

River front has all of there AC for 30% off, I dont know the original price to start. As for the fx 5 I saw at tanks a lot a new one for $350, or on used calgary i was talking to someone that has one for $200 and its 6 months old. She asked me to email her back. are you interested

ya listen to fish club girl, hearing the whole story is funny, pretending to cry and such. lol

Cheers to that, I agree with you

yes gold carries them and if i remember properly they have them for the cheapest (well at least at one point earlier this year)

I would use a net on brand new fry, but i am guilty of this, The reason I say this is because they are so delicate, and the can get injured when the netting fold or when you are trying to get them out the stick and get stuck in the creases. When I use a net i flip it inside out so the seem is on the out side and I use a very fine soft net that is small. Then I let the swim out of the net with a few soft shakes, because if you try to pull the net apart to remove the fry you may end up squishing them. If they are not hard to get at you can use a deep tuber ware or a glass and let they swim in there. What ever works for you. My tacktics vary depending on how delicate and big they are.

I dont know what kind of peacock this is does anyone else have any ideas? thanks

This has happened to me in the summer but I had no heater and I only had one fish die I was really surprised but I was also really scared to see to see later outcomes. as fall fell into places things balanced out. I dont know how some fish do it but they do. all summer i had air stones and high flow rate to keep oxygen levels up. I didnt want to be doing this because its a planted tank and I would of rather been putting co2 in the tank. lol. over the years I have only had 2 heater malfunction one killed all but a couple fish in my tropical community tank and the other happened recently in a 5 g fry tank. I lost probably 10 of my 30 fry. 10 of the 20 were one species the other species didnt even look effected. Life goes on I like hydor and italian company (i think) and stealth. stealth heaters have kept acurate temps and actually adjust the water temp to what you set it for, its a miracle. The rena attachable heaters also work well, a little pricy, but they keep my tank water usually within one degree of what i set the heater for. I traded some fish for an external hydor heater that attaches to your canister hose, i haven't used it yet but does anyone know how well they work?

you can use river rocks, bleach them or put them in the oven at about 300 degrees, lime stone does not effect ph but will make water hard, my cichlids dont mind the hard water, considering how many minerals are in there water naturally, and flagstone, I use rundle flagstone I got it in big sheets so I had to smash it into stutable sizes some seriously sharp edges were sanded down with a steel sander. You can also use. I also use driftwood. I wouldnt do a bare sand tank its not real nice and fish dont like it, they like shelter that they can retreat to.

I also tested the water last night and I have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and every thing else seemed normal. My temp sits at about 81-83' I dont like it here but theres nothing I can do about it, its a planted tank with 8 hours of light, and a soft mesh top to manage heat. I dont have a heater in the tank and my appartment is above the boiler room and heater valve is busted so I can turn down the heat. Low 80 is good for this tank considering it hit 96' this summer. I only lost one fish luckly. I also do regular water changes to mantain heat and in exchange oxegen level. If you need further info on my set up feel free to ask

I have a juvinile splendid ornate rainbow. I have had her since she hatched. She has a red lump (growth) coming from one of her vents either her reproduction vent or the one that attaches to the kidney. I dont think thats its her poop vent because she was pooing normally and her fecies look healthy. has any one had this before. I have had it once before a long time ago. I could of sworn I recorded the symptoms and treatment but my book shows that I have not and I cant recall what fish it was, and whether it died or not. She shows no other behavior or physical problems. A couple weeks ago I had a danio shopwing swelling in her stomach and a red bursting out of it. I threw her into a water planted vause approx. 15 gallons and from warm water to room temp water. a couple days later she was swimming normally and external opening healed. so two weeks later she is healed but does not have a stomach.. odd yes.... you have to see it to belive it. a fish with no stomach, it is very obvious it is not there but yet obvious that it is healed. The problem is she will die of starvation becasue she can no longer eat. I tried to get a photo but its a cyclinder vause and my camera can focus through it properly.

I like your wording... rupture, but I do agree with you. You mention ph swings in nature this can go with anything parasites etc. This is because of the volume of water. the ratio of pathogen to water is large difference or even water fluctuation there is more water so it does not become as drastic. Thats why it is easier (yet more expensive) to take care of a 200 G vs a 20 G. For all those who are new to this realization if you have 100 bacteria cells in a 10 gallon tank you have a problem, but if you have 100 bacteria cells in a 100 gallon tank than your fish are likely to be okay... THIS IS JUST AN EXAMPLE

I dont know about this urethane but I do know that part two is safe, be aware do not use epoxy that contain polyester resin.

i sent you a message.

Im skeptical about carbon and dont use it unless Im trying to get med. out of my tanks. The reason I say this is because life of carbon varies from a couple of days to a month at most. It just depends on how much gunk and toxins it has absorbed. The danger of carbon is that it after it is completely full it releases the toxin back into the water. This can be very lethal to your fish. Considering I dont know what could of gotten in my water then how would I know what's in my carbon and when it is full besides from mechanical cling on you can not tell with the naked eye what your carbon has absorbed. I would rather use purigen and frequent water changes this way my water remains safe and i am not risking recontamination and waking up the next day to dead fish. I also dont like the idea of it removing important nutrients from the water that my fish and other organisms need to live healthily. My other view on carbon is... it is often used to clear and keep water crystal clear. tell me now how realistic is that. Yes in some places of the world water is like that but ask your self do your fish come from crystal clear water. I know that mine dont.

I really like his metallic blue and silver body and stunning off perl fins. Im a feather fin fanatic of most species.

What kind of feather fin it looks to be a furcifer do you know what kind of fur. it is. It looks to be a peacock in the back is this correct. I temporarily had sibwessas with a couple peacocks that didnt go so well

OPPS I POSTED IT TWICE- SORRY THE SECOND ONE HAS CORRECT SPELLING

I have never had a problem with erratic ph swings but i do know alkalinity of the water at 7.6 + makes ammonia (nh3) highly toxic. Ph levels will not create ammonia it will only toxify your already existing ammonia. when PH hits 6.8 or less ammonium(nh4)is found dont worry this is not toxic. I am surprised your fish were not killed 6.4- 8.2 in Ph is an 18 units from friday to tuesday, most fish (but not all can only handle between 1/2 -1 unit a day in PH change. Now keep in mind soft water is not stable compared to hardwater setups. It is not uncommon for soft water to swing or crash in Ph this is because soft water does not have enough buffer to maintain the PH. You said that you use distilled water, is this correct or are you usings RO water this would be more logical. if you are making your own Ro water your membrane may have failed. If this is not the case and you are using distilled water check your source, your water may not of actually been distilled or done properly. First things first check your water hardness and go from there. as well keep your tank clean these changes can create a post "new tank syndrome effect". You also mentioned having plants in the tank the co2 will not effect water hardness but will drop your PH because co2 releases carbonic acid. Did you previously have co2 hooked up to your tank and if so did you turn it off, or did it possibly malfunction, this would be why your PH went way back up. If this is not the case take a look at your plants what kind of plants do you have, different plants release and absorb different amounts of o2 and co2. they also release these gasses differently some releasing small amounts consistently and others in blobs periodically. and how healthy are your plants if your plants are healthy then they can do there job absorbs fish waste and nitrates, along with nutrients, co2 and oxygen. If they are unhealthy your plants can not absorb and release what they need. How is this related whether you add co2 to your tank or not it will be there your fish create it. now think about it your plants are sick they cant absorb much including co2 then leaving the co2 sitting around in the water, you said you turned on an air stone this rapidly drives off the co2 making your PH raise. If you have algae in your tank do your best to remove it this will take in the nutrients in the water faster then your plants can. Im not sure what kind of test strips or solutions you are using but double check them and depending on who makes them depends on quality, for sensitive fish and non evident problems find an accurate test solution such as master test kit. I say this because some are only "close to" marking and are not accurate they only leave with an idea (close estimate of what you are looking at. And how many time have you found that you test strip never actually matches up with the colors on the package, lol keep in mind do not use PH adjusters I have never used them but I have been told by those that have they are a waste of time and will not change your pH it will just go back to your tap level. I cant remember why

I ran into this problem when my water was to hard, low co2 and to much oxygen, My tank was reaching between 92-98' all summer so I had to turn on air stones for my fish, this is when I noticed these deposits on my plants., For me it was white for a while then turned black, turning into calcium deposits... .... sorry I didnt get a chance to read all of these I just read the first few so I may be way off

I dont like the epoxy look either, I used that on the first one and that last few days I have been sanding it down to take away some glare, first I used a fine sander pad and then finished it with 600 grit water proof sand paper, it did make some difference, but Im sick of sanding so I will make do with what I have. Who ever said the first attempt would be a master piece, lol. As for jonnytens I used west system 105 and 206 slow hardener Group A, the only place that I could find it was way up north calgary by the airport. This was the only one I knew of that was not toxic to the fish. I may have these numbers mixed up but johnny I can send you a message when I get home and can check. The pieces are being siliconed to glass as we speak so tomorrow I think I will do the empty and refilling about 10 times because I have fish coming in from edmonton on saturday.

I like the sand idea, over top of the epoxy, I think that is what I will try. do you think that I really need to put epoxy over the cement?

Thank you, I'll touch base with you later i gotta run