fleshgear

Cryprocoryne's are an easy plant and come in so many different types. Probably my favorite easy plant. Also many swords plants are easy. Amazon sword is the cheapest. But there is quite a few that look much better. Like ozelot sword. They can be found at a reasonable price sometimes. Hygrophilia are easy and fast growing. There are many stem plants that are easy to grow. The red ones are harder to keep red. They require the proper amount of ferts to stay red. 2.5 wpg is a good amount of light. You should add some ferts. And most plants will do good. Even the hard ones. As long as your lights are 6700k (plant lights). And consider a diy c02 if your tank is not too big

i have a bowfront 5 gallon tank i am going to take the water out of the tank. it had about 2.5 wpg. it is sealed pretty good but not completly, so humidity should be good? i have a 1-2 mm gravel in the tank. was thinking about some crypt's, swords, anubias, java fern. all of these plants i took out of other tanks with water i am planing on keeping the water level to the top of the gravel. what do i need to do for fertalization? the gravel is still dirty i never cleaned it, so there should be some ferts in there. will the leaves melt off and new ones grow? will the plants grow faster? different? can i grow ludwigia or pogostemon helfri in there? or is there any other plants that would work good? i would like to try some hc but i have none. wink wink, any one in calgary have some to spare?

yes that is the store. which method are you going to use? ei or pps? and do you know what to get? you could also post a looking for add. for the plants. they are all common and grow fast so people always have cuttings

i highly recomend using dry ferts. they are way cheaper i use pps pro method. i got all of the ferts for $40 that would last probaly 2 years for a 55 gallon tank. i got all the ferts from the grow store on edmonton trail just south of 16th ave. the otocinclus will eat some of the algae but you woud need at least 10 or more for a 55gallon another thing i would try if you dont have any Vallisneria is the florish excel (organic c02) you could double up on the dose or higher. just have to keep a close eye on the fish, make sure they have enough 02 keep that diy c02 going you could get fast growing stem plants like ludwigia repens or pogostemon stellata. they like the high light and ferts. plus you can sell the cuttings. the fast growing stem plants will also help keep the algae in check by using up the ferts before the algae can get it. limnophila sessiliflora is a crazy fast growing stem plant. but not too many people will want that. just throw it out when your tank comes back into check, or keep it if you like it. when i had it in the high light tank it would grow 6inches a week

That is high light with no, to little c02. Algae is most commonly caused by a lack of c02. Also could be caused by a lack of 1 fertalizer. But it is probably not enough c02. How many gallons is the tank? You said you used liquid florish? Is that the excel? The organic c02? Did the algae come after the new bulbs? In september did you increase the wpg?

the diy c02 should not be the problem, if anything it would help if setup properly. how much light? wpg? how long do you have the lights on for? what kind of bulbs? 6700k? how fresh are the bulbs? what method of fertalizing are you using? and how much? or what types of ferts are you putting in? what kind of plants? fast growing? slow growing? high light plants? low light plants? what kind of diy co2 diffuser did you use? do you use florish excel? what kind of substrate? what is the flow rate of your filter? high, low, average? is your tank sitting i a place that gets direct sunlight?

i have mollies in with angels, tetras with no problem. i never add salt except to medicate. and the mollies are fine. these perticular molies were bred in calgary water, maybe that will make the difference. i have had lots of mollies a while ago and never had problems. i would get lots of cories, more the better. i like sterbai, any laser, panda's, any cory that has multi colored. i dont really like the hastatus. they are small for a big tank like that unless you get 40 or more of them. that would be cool. the only corys i dont really like are the bronze and albino. they seem a little plain

i have many tanks spread out in the bsmt of my house. some planted and some bare tanks and 1 cichlid tank. the cichlid tank some times start to smell towards the end of the week. time for a water change. i do not have any carbon in the filter. but i will be putting some in too see if that helps. i dont know why it is the only tank that smells. some of my tanks will go months without water changes, only top ups and they dont smell. the cichlid tank is by far the most crowded probably with the highest bio load. i dont know if any of this helps but that is my experience.

the apple snail is probably the problem. if it is not a small one it could probably eat everything in there pretty quickly. everything else seems fine

for setting up the new tank, you should fill up as much as you can from another tanks water. up to half. and use lots of the other filters media. or just use the entire filter on the new tank for a while at least. as long as they are approximatly the same size filters.and you can put plants in now as well. when i setup a new tank and follow this method i will put fishin the tank in 24 - 48 hours. just make sure the heater works and the filter is good.

it is a type of cryptocoryne, they are very slow growers if you dont have high light, c02, fertalizers. they are a very hardy and undemanding plant. very hard to kill. they will do fine with low light no c02 or ferts

how old are your light bulbs? are they 6700k? what method of dry ferts do you use? are you using all of the ferts that your system recomends? is there algae? do you have plecos that would eat the plants? or snails?

i have put my gardneri's in with other fish in various tanks with different fish even with guppies and never had a problem. try and switch the fish at the store.

is there any where in calgary to get better than brine shrimp? or decapsulated bring shrimp?

so if they are in a bucket with water do they need light? what about when they come from the store, they are completly dry with no leaves at all do they need the dormant stage? can i put one in my planted fish tank? will the tempature change shock it? will it flower?

i thought about doing that as well but it probably wouldnt last long and would probably be to much co2. but you could give it a try. also i would just go with a couple of 2 liter bottles with sugar and yeast before spending the money on a presurized system. at least for a while

i am not sure what kind they are. they are in plastic pot type containers. i got them from walmart. they never flowered but they did get lots of leaves

i tried the 2l pop bottle method once. there was two fish i wanted to catch, i caught one of them quickly. but i left it over night and one of the clown loaches went in with a few other fish. when i came back the clown loach and one other fish was dead. so if you do try that method i wouldnt let it go unattended for too long.

wow, i have a piece of dried coral. i should try and sell it.. lol

i mixed up a trace mix for pps pro with 500ml of tap water about a month ago. i was kind of slacking on the doseing for at least a week and finally got around to doing it tonight. the clear mixture was fine but when i checked the trace mix it seemed like it had mould in it. i threw it out and made a new mix. has anyone else had this problem? was it because i did not use distiled water? i was keeping the bottle in the basement with no sunlight should these mixtures be refridgerated? how long will these mixtures last in the bottle?

is there a big difference between t12 and t8 and t5 and t5ho?

i was hopeing for more of diy project. cheaper. has any one done this before?

i have 2 36" coralife light fixtures with 2 each 96watt bulbs. i bought these used, i have replaced the actinic bulb with a 6700k bulb. they cost $80 each. so they worked great i had 1 6700k bulb and a 10000k bulb per fixture. the 6700 bulbs only lasted 8 months and then burnt out. now i need to replace them again i would like to get 4 6700k bulbs but that would be $320 just for the bulbs. that is too much and i think i could switch lighting setups for cheaper. one tank is a 46gallon bow front 36" wide 20" deep. the other is a 77gallon 48" wide 24" deep i can build whatever i need to build, and do my own wiring. i am reading about t5 or t8's but i have no experiance with them i have made up a 48" fixture for a few tanks that are side by side. they are t12's (i think) 40watt 6500k. i bought this a home depot. it was fairly cheap. i know these are not that great for plants. can i do something simaler with t5's and t8's? and what would pricing be like? i would like min 2 watts per gallon 3wpg would be nice depending on price

dry ferts is the way to go! i will never go back to pet store bought ferts. way cheaper for dry ferts. i spent $40 to get the stuff i needed and it should last a year except maybe the trace mix. that should last 6 months. and i use the pps pro method. even if i only had 1 10 gallon planted tank i would still use dry ferts. i cant belive it took me so long to switch. as for your problem even if one of the ferts is too low it can cause algae. lots of cheap fast growing stem plants could help till tank balances out limofillia sessafloria is a good one for that. but once your tank gets balanced properly you will probably want to get rid of it because it will take over ludwiga repens is good too. and you can sell it when you get too much. pogostemon stelata is also good. it looks good too

how long do you have your lights on for? are you fertalizing? how much ferts? is it heavily planted? slow growing plants like java ferns, anubius, crypts? or fast growing plants like stem plants?