Oxquo

I need someone to pick up 2 fish for Me in Edmonton, pack em, throw a heat pack in with them and send them on the bus out here. Yes it's true fish are not suppose to go via bus, but I have sent and recieved over 8 boxes of fish recently with no problems, label them,"FRAGILE GLASS". I will give specifics, the fish will be paid for directly. I will add extra money to buy a cooler and I'll send a 40 hour heat pack"read instructions to adjust heat". Tape cooler shut tight, place in a cardboard box, tape shut, write, fragile glass on all sides and put on the bus to Yorkton, and get a $20.00 bill in Your paypal account. Sound easy? it is. Let Me know when they will be arriving in Yorkton and I will be there to recieve them. Anyone interested let Me know. I may even be able to get them packaged for You.

I would imagine a glass of red wine in the tank, don't forget to remove the carbon till morning, would do about the same, after all that is how most of us have gotten here. But I have no solid proof that this would work or that Your fry wouldn't be born with F.A.S. Fry Alcohol Syndrome.

Aphyosemion Gabuense Marginatum Location: West Africa, North west Gabon Size 1 3/4" max pH 7.2 Hardness Medium-soft Temp- 72-76F Sexual differences, Males way more colorful with big fins. females very little color, short fins. Recommended breeding, substrate or adhesive. Feeding was done with live foods, not by choice but it's all they will condition on. Foods included, grindals, daphnia, baby red wrigglers and a bit of frozen brine from time to time. These fish are quite the gems, the pair I have are still quite young but not very aggressive to one another. The male has a mix of red, yellow and green, beautiful bars along the tail, dorsal and anal with red spots across the rest of the body. The female has slight red spotting but is typical pink throughout. I keep the pair together in a 10 gallon tank and after experimenting with top and bottom mops I find either worked but floating mops were the better choice with over 70% of the eggs close to the surface. Other than spawning the fish seem to hang out in the bottom to middle stratum. Once the pair was given 3 days as I give all of My moppers a 3 day egg period so hatching is not so far apart that the fry can consume one another. The eggs were removed to a light solution of the parents tank water and blue methylene, (one drop meth per cup of water). The eggs were placed in a film container and kept at room temp, they were opened once a day for air exchange. On day 10 I found the first hatchees and transfered them to a 1 cup dish with clean water from the parents tank. A few long strands of java moss were also added to the dish, this is done 5 days after picking the eggs. It took 2 days for the egg sacs to disappear on the first fry but at this time the last fry were just hatching. After the egg sacs were gone I fed light with micros for 4 days and then on to frozen rotifers and bbs. The fry grow rapid and water should be changed often, I find this done easiest in a smaller container and switching out 25% a day with a turkey baster worked very well. Over all this was a 100% hatch but 1 of the 10 fry was gibbled, maybe due to the eye dropper as I sucked them out of the film container. I have had better egg laying later on and feel the egg production was less due to them being stress during shipping. At this time I cannot tell male female ratio but feel that with starting out on micros the females should survive fine. I would say this fish could hold it's own in a mixed killi community but not to sure about other fish, maybe small non-aggresive tetras. They will handle a pH down to 6.5 so even a Ram, cardinal, killi tank might work add a few small cories such as pandas and Your tank would look pretty damn fine. This was a good fish to get back into killies with after a year off from them. A perfect beginner killi with a super fast hatch out. I will be trying to peat spawn and hatch but for now just want to build up a nice tank of perhaps 4F and 1M.

Thanks RD, the site pertains to all of Saskatchewan, the decision with the gov of saskatchewan must be based on a native collecting on native land. Maybe it is a touchy subject for them, I am sure I'd get busted without question. I appreciate the response, maybe I can get a permit without going through hell as I am hoping to find fish in there. We found what looked like a massive leech the other day, maybe it is a sea worm of some kind. It's damn cool stuff though, completely makes me dread the snow coming so soon as I could spend hours there. The time everything would take will make me skip this school project this year but God couldn't keep me from unearthing goods there. There is a fossil almost every 5' as the cliff that collapsed is massive and deep too. Can't see anyone digging up the site too easy as it is My buddies parents back yard pretty much.

I have checked into it further, but as far as I have gotten so far, because it is collected and the deposit sits on native land, no one seems to want to respond with a 100% answer. That is where this deposit is as well as who is collecting it. As far as I am concerned though, it isn't really wise to keep such items in My house as I am not a treaty indian.. The rules if they are the same for My friend who discovered these fossils are either not enforced or they are just trying to dodge bullets. Would this be to say that Native Canadians are authorised to collect fossils? I am sure if collecting these items was illegal they would say Yes or No and not Hmmm and hah. I wonder who else could be contacted? They didn't even reply a for sure answer as to whether these items can be moved from the Reserve. Can I ask, if You know the link to the Heritage Property Act as i cannot find it or a further place to contact than just the sask.gov.ca ? Maybe if the items can't be removed I could find a way to borrow some of their's or they could even bring some down for the school to view as I remember in school they did quite often.

I guarantee there will be more than 1 type of killi there in the spring. The fishroom is getting back up slowly, it at 523 gallons now so a few more auctions and the others can get set up. feels good. It is always good to visit other auctions, it is very important to support Your own though first and foremost. Chances are though that any fish in Your home auction You have access to year round, this is a good chance to see what everyone else is keeping. There was a pile of discus that sold for good prices, but I resisted. Like I said, I have never seen so many donations and wonder how many hours they spent to get that. We actually visited Petland before the auction and browsed the fish while picking up some Prime. 2 people asked me if I was checking out the auction and suggested I looked there first. That is good community support along with their 4 boxes full of plant and fish donations. Definitely check it out even if just for the experience.... Next step.... American Killifish auction.... Hell Yeah, time to cash in those RRSP's.

They are all Notho Guentheri zanzibar so I am pretty pleased. I was also thinking that a person could charge at the auction for fish identification. I even saw bags labelled "Cichlid". As for killies, they are young and already a stunning color. I will try and get pics but it's not My strong point. I did manage to lose 1 S. Fryeri female on the trip home but it was my fault for not bringing extra bags as there was 5 good sized fish in one bag. Along with the unpacking came hatching of My Aphyosemion Marginatum eggs. It all comes at once. I am getting a little tired of driving 3.5 - 5 hours for one species of killies. Tried to contact the CKA but their website is really bad and contacts don't respond even though email sends. Hard to renew at this rate. I guess I truly looked at the auction in different eyes today and learnt a few things to add to what I already have learned. Selling.... -Bag fish properly they sell for more even, never more than a 1/3rd of water and 2/3 air, don't feed before auction 24 hrs minimum is My general rule. Also this can make them eat better and quicker in their new owners tanks as You may not be feeding the same food. -More fish per bag attracts more attention but have big enough bags or multi bag a lot. Fish that live as trios are good sold as trios, shoals as shoals and pairs as pairs. - Labelling is super important!!! Fish often share common names along with scientific names in part. There is even a killi named dovii and electric blue isn't there atleast 3 now? With labels give as much info as possible. When listing fish such as killi's how many forms of gardneri is there??? I have owned 6 so far. - When selling fry, adding a pic of Your spawning adults gives a better idea than Herbert Axelrods. Adding age, number and even pH can help a tonne. I pail every bag and test before I match unless they are close in water.(same city, tap water) Sex is doubly important.... Imagine buying someones complete collection of male discus or say a same sex group of Zebra plecos? -Those who often sell crap under the same number will eventually sell nothing. Don't need to give Your best but this is a chance to show off to Your fellow aquarists outside of the fishroom. At auctions fish are stressed, should they show half good color, I am twice as likely to give You My money. -Females who are holding or that have fry in the bag sell for insane prices. today 3 pineapple swords of one which dies and one which gave birth to about 20 fry sold for $18.00. People looked past the dead fish somehow. -If You aren't Spencer Jack selling cichlids or Bill Bishopp selling killies, list it on the bag that these men blessed Your fish before the auction or atleast touched Your fish in some sort of mental fish telepathy way, Your fish will double in price. Better Yet, Change your name to Jef Raps and sell your fish for more money..." I know it's Jeff Rapps, but that would be border line wrong now wouldn't it?" Buying.... - Its often hard to refuse impulse urges like damn I never knew they'd have these. Paying more than store price is not a bad thing if the quality is there. Try to picture in Your head where You might put them and what You might pay for them in the store. Example: Bacopia caroliniana, I can place it in it's natural habitat and still likely kill it, but My drive to make it flower for 15 years + now means I will buy it until it is extinct in the wild, JK. I am giving it a 33 gallon all to itself, half day of sun and halogens up the hoo haa. It will not flower, I know this, if it should live until Spring, I will put it in the pond. when it flowers, I will quickly put it into a tank and lie to You all saying that it happened in the Aquarium. Strangely the aquarium is resting on the rocks on the side of My pond but that means nothing with todays trick photoshop programs. The point is that I had a space in Mind and a use for the space should the plant die before spring. I know the plant and that I have killed it for years trying to get one damn flower. Should it flower, I will get rid of it and never look at it again except in that cocky Hahahahaha I beat You stupid plant, then I will move on to killing more Madagascar lace plants, they will have the choice to propogate by seed or go extinct but i will give them the option. - Read the labels, look at the packaging. Does a bag full of water and gasping fish show that these fish are a good purchase? Wrong labelling, wrong species, quality and color, know what You are buying and what it should look like. Fry are often cheapest but adults are in mature color and less risk most of the time. - dont be afraid to ask questions but ask them during viewing not during the auction, We all have fish to unpack and have been up to the wee hours trying to catch that damn horseface laoch in that planted....Ex-planted tank. People there will normally offer any advice they can or direct You to the one who listed them. - Be visible, be clear and be polite, it gets good response. You may even make valuable contacts this way. - Lastly, don't get mad at the guy who buys all the killi's, just ask him about future fry, You will likely get a better deal with patience and a short wait. - Good volunteers make an auction better. It is okay to point out tips to run smooth at the next auction even if you are a visitor, it is even better to commend all those who made it all happen. A club that steps it up and makes You one of them and goes the extra mile for You deserves to hear about it as do others who may visit their next auction. I will be returning to the next RAS auction and Sending an email to the group to express what a great job they all did. I also thought the "below $2.00 is a club donation and first hand at $1.00 wins would be bad, Man was I wrong. It sped things up incredibly and fewer items sold for under $2.00 this way. People wouldn't just wait for it to be handed to them as they could lose the auction alltogether. I would say that of over 600 items, 2-3 sold for $1.00 unlike other auctions I have been to where 20-30 sometimes sell in the $1.00 - $2.00 range. Like I said, even hornwort hit, no lower than $3.00.

The auction was awesome and one of the best I have been to in Canada so far. The quick sale format worked amazingly and very few fish went down to a dollar to the first bidder. Alot of the bags, some members and some non-members though should have had fish rebagged, I think the club and the sellers benefit from this as I could hardly see buying a bag of fish that is more than half deflated with 100% water and gasping fish. Once again the damndest thing happened, a crazy little castle statue with a shark attached to it sold for $22.00, java fern $12.00 holy smack and tiger val, catch this, I am serious, from $8.00- $15.00 a bag. Serious I am not kidding. There were a few items I didn't get that I really wanted, 2 american toads, like the big assed bullfrogs that had just lost their tails, man they would have been cool. I also missed the bucktoothed tetras but Petland had them for $5.35 each if You bought 5 with a membership so I may get them after all. What a price for angels, I didn't sell at this one but I should have sold My gold breeding pair. The bad news was killies, I only managed to get 2 bags of the same, Notho Guentheri not sure of location but looks like Zanzibar. Nice bags too of 5 and 6 each. I got My syno multis, 2 per bag damn I hate that!!! Got all three bags though for $58.00 combined S. Fryeri 2 bags and 8 fish for $29.00 Killis $12.00 and $11.00 so $23.00 for a crapload of cute killies. A massive bag of Bacopa carolinia for $14.00, I have to flower this guy outside next year, have to. 5 nice blue rams 2 males 3 females for $26.00, Wish I could have gotten Homers fish. 1lb of Hikari blood worms $12.00 can't complain there. Once again, no grindals, whiteworms, Aphyosemions at all. Some beautiful Carpinte cichlid fry though, wish I had more space. There was alot of lots and a tonne of tanks including a 600 ish gallon terrarium, would have been perfect if I could have gotten the frogs, But I think I will build one similar. A 65 gallon homemade but brand new and excellent tank went for $62.00 damn I need a trailer. Great raffle prizes too. A slick 55 gallon in an oak stand and canopy with drawers and doors, wish it were mine. I did pick up a fish towel with the RAS logo and Cories on it for $5.00, the se are sooo cool every club should have them. What a blast and what an excellent group of people there. It was so organised and quick I was almost too late plenty of times. Met some very cool people and set up a shot at swapping some S.multipunctatus fry for S. Petricola fry. Over all I have to rate this clubs auctions high on My things to do in spring list. There was so many tropica plants there I could have started a nursery and I have never seen so many donation items to a club. I may even buy a RAS membership along with My SAS just to show My support for such a great group of aquarists. If You ever have the chance it is well worth the trip, even if just to sell your fish. The no hesitation policy made people bid quickly and competetively as an auction should be. I paid more for fish than i did at SAS but for the Record I got alot of good stuff and a towel for under $200.00. I also got a big @$$ Hybrid parrot, but I only wanted the pail, JK. I am sure he will look fine in a service tank somewhere. I was worried about the last second call on items that didn't sell for $2.00 but it actually brought the prices up and even hornwort beat the $2.00 minimum. Crazy times, time to go unpack.....

I am burnt, spent the whole night moving and setting up tanks. I am psyched for the new arrivals whatever they may be, Never been to a Regina auction but they seem to have good ideas. I really liked the one rule where if the price starts at 2 dollars and no one bids it gets reduced to 1 dollar and the first hand owns it. Of course reserve bids are frequent out here and that often gets to me. should be the same rule. If no one bids past the reserve the seller should just take it, never mind asking him if he wants to lower his bid, He set the reserve now he keeps the fish. Anyways I'll let everyone know how it goes. Last time at SAS africans went for dirt cheap as they should and the few SA's were way up there, bad for me but nice to see. Hopefully killies show up this time as well.

Styrofoam would be good, returning the stand and building Your own would be best. Think about it, it is likely the stand and if imperfections in the stand are visible, maybe the whole stand is a recall or a bad idea. What if the fact that this stand made it through QC meant it was never checked or worse yet it was checked and still got through? If it is a welded stand it obviously wasn't conforming to standards, if a weld breaks, no styrofoam in the world will save Your tank. As for Your laminate, hmmm. It sucks but draining Your tank and building a stand can be a great fix and add security to Your sleep at night. Not a great carpenter? check out warf for simple designs. Still not sure of Your skills? Up 2x4 to 2x6 and use lots of glue, for beginners taking Your cutlist down to Home depot and asking them to cut the pieces precisely can't hurt actually saves time too. Paint it up and do the styro on the top and bang something You can be proud of and feel safe with for likely less than the stand cost. If all fails ask someone here to help design it, they may even help You build it or atleast help You cut and mark the pieces for assembly.

Ebay is a good choice, I have a german model that is used in hospitals to keep stiffs breathing while waiting on transplant surgery, works like a damn and a heck of a deal. I am still considering getting a back-up from www.kensfish.com he has great prices, excellent shipping and killer prices. Almost blew My own head off with his pond pump, lol. I seldomly see a duty charge as long as I stick with 6-8 day shipping.

Regina Oct 15, 10:30

great ideas, the weather loach would be very cool as they could maybe document it's behaviour before high pressure moved in. We are going out next weekend since the RAS auction is this weekend to look for fish fossils, A friend of mines farm colapsed and we have found these huge trumpet snails almost 30 feet below this cliff top. I'd love to find a fish. It is the assiniboine river valley so it is almost all sea creatures so far aside from a large spine type of bone. That would make a cool evolution topic. Maybe bring a bicher as well to show the close resemblance between some of todays fish and yesterdays. That trupet snail would wreck a planted tank in an hour I am sure. Babies, for sure a tank of My ever spawning saulosi would impress the young ones good call. I like the idea of breeding behaviour, livebearers, killies, mouthbrooders, shell dwellers and maybe some brichardi as ongoing parenting. Alot of work but I think I can use the same tank for a different lesson such as biotope. Awesome ideas I'll ask the principal which topics suit who best as it will go according to what they are taking in Science. I am thinking bugs and babies for the young ones, weather loaches and cory spawning for the mid grades and biotope or fossils and evolution for the older ones now. I better get studying as I'm going back to school, lol. Hope I don't get caught smokin in the boys room.... thanks all for the awesome input....

I generally go by how many trips I make with ice cream pails to the sink, divided by two. But seriously, GARF aquarium calculator does My thinking for me, book mark it and save the brain for other clever stuff that You need to remember.

Nandopsis like to spread his arrowana around he never keeps it in one spot, perhaps You could post any paraphanelia regarding arrowana in Canadbis' direction. JK try posting in the oddballs section, they fit in pretty good there.

Definitely, but seldomly if each male is presented with a female or two of it's own kind. I would recommend breeding the species in their own tank or with non-livebearers if You wanted to sell any. In a tank of livebearers you can never be sure what happened, no sense introducing hybrids into the hobby if it can be helped.

green water? save some for a nice daphnia culture. they'll clean it up. For fry especially the little guys, I have seen good green water sell for $14.00 a 1l on aquabid.

I like to feed them up in divided 10 gallons but even seperate jars will do. Just do daily or every second day cleanings. The best vaccuum I have seen yet is a $1.00 turkey baster. Clean the bottom even every 2 days and make sure they see each other, it adds to the spawning intensity. Water properties providing no extremes is not as big of an issue as with nothobranchius. When You have fed them up and personally, if You can't find live food buy some frozen daphnia, bloodworms and artemia eggs hatch fast and build eggs quickly. As 5 days gets near transfer the female to a fresh jar of tank water, add mop, floating is good fo austrailles but a top and bottom work well together, the bottom mop if nothing else catches any eggs that don't adhere. Make sure to offer live though. Finely chopped heart can work well too but they need time to adjust to it. Fresh hatched bbs is not only good for conditioning and maintenance food but for fry later on as well. Some will suggest bbs for fry off the start I say for Aphys and fundulos atleast 3 days after the egg sac is gone they should eat micros, this helps the way smaller females survive. The key here is to get more gals than guys or atleast even. So after 5 days of separate containers, live food is best as it lives till it gets eaten go with bbs and save the flake for the maintenance tank. 3 feedings a day and the fish seeing each other but not able to spawn they will be pumped. Then female goes in a clean jar one gallon, add mop or mops, let her get established then add male and stop feeding for the day. allow them to spawn all day, two if You like but one should do it for australes. When it's all done, return the fish to a larger maintenance tank. and feed well, they probably will even take flake with relish at this time. Sponge filter in the maintenance tank nothing in the spawning jar. Make damn sure to use a lid on all tanks and jar no gaps they will be carpet before they spawn. Now squeeze water out of the mop or mops. Starting at the top squeeze downwards but don't slide your hand down as you'll rake the eggs out. grab by the top. squeeze, move your hand down squeeze again. Chances are You will never squish a fertile egg but You need no squeeze with all You have. Basically You are milking the mop like with a cow. Now You have a choice. Pick eggs or just hatch the mop in the clean jar. If You choose the latter You can just add acriflaven or if You are lucky blue meth to the jar and leave the mop in. Depending on temp it can be around 14 days give or take 2 or 3 for water hatch or up to 21 for a peat hatch. Do water changes up to 10% daily or bi-daily with water from the parents tank. Add fresh tap to the folks tank never the fry or egg tank. Remove fuzzy eggs with a turkey baster or egg dropper. If Picking eggs My favorite way is film containers. Pick eggs with thumb and fore finger sqeeze gently, if it pops get rid of it, eggs will be pinhead size or less and hard little glass beads. Place no more than 12 per film container and if using blue meth add one drop to 1 cup of water then use that to fill the film containers half way. Open the containers once a day or atleast two days. Within three to four days the eggs should "eye up" exactly as it sounds. Not just have eyes but healthy eggs will actually grow with their eyes pointing up and looking right at You. Keep removing the fungus eggs as You see them, though once an egg is eyed up it has never gone fungal that I have seen. Every 3-4 days change half the water, mix another cup of parents tank water and one drop of blue. You may not use all the water but it's easier than getting a half of a drop. On Day 12 start doing the old, open container, blow in container "as much CO2 as possible, close container, shake like hell, You can't shake them too hard, open container and remove hatchlings to another container with clean parents tank water or a small tank. Sponge filter in the fry tank should be steady but not boiling. You can repeat the force hatch idea several times a day if You want. Carrying the container around in Your pocket where it is warm this also helps. On day three after the first hatch if you still have an eyed egg or two add a few microworms to the container, it is believed the worms chew them out of their shell. wait till the egg sac is gone " sometimes that day but likely in 3 days" feed micros for three and then BBS. For extra safety, place java moss in the rearing tank well before the fry hatch, they will feast on natures food until you feed them should their sac disappear before You notice. Feed 3 times daily with daily or bi-daily water changes still from the parents tank for up to 5 weeks. After 5 weeks You can give them 10% tap water changes. If there seems to be aggression separate small fish and large fish but australes are usually pretty good to each other but extra java moss or hornwort gives them safe keeping. An even better hide out can be plastic scrubby pads curly cues I think they call them They come in Yellow green and red can be snipped and unravelled so they make a crazy plant like nest from hell. females love this stuff as it is not easy for the bigger males to squeeze through. Some fish will even spawn in it. Anyways give it a try. If You need cultures in Edmonton contact some ACE members, Ken Ealey, Michael Pham or even Tuan, He may still have a good daphnia culture going, your killies will go nuts for daphnia. Grab some bbs eggs and get them hatching. Killies are prone to eating a little flake but live food = egg production. See if You can get Your worms to eat NLS then Your killies will get the filler and live food at the same time. I like feeding a little food on the worms and then spritzing it a little. Also try putting Your grindals or whites in no deeper than 1" of media, 1/2" peat and topped with 1/2" organic peat based potting soil. moist but not soaked. You will see that the worms will do better in the peat based potting soil but the pure peat bottom keeps them closer to the top. good luck and happy spawning, soon you'll be picking eggs like a chicken farmer.

I have been accepted to go down to the Elementary and High school to speak on fish. I do have the one project I used last year but it suited grade 6. What would be some good ideas for grade 3, grade 5, grade 7 and grade 8? Last year I did a killi project that the grade 6 ers raved about, I intend on using that again for them. I also spoke to grade 2 class about biotope and habitat which was really fun, maybe even on My part more than theirs. But for grade 7 and 8 I need to step it up, grade 7 already did the killi project last year. This year I have one week and a whole classroom to use for My project. I'd like to set-up several display tanks so that all classes can tour everyones project. I am thinking that grade 8 has a better attention span so a few sample visuals and a good solid talk should suffice. Grade 3 would be mostly visuals to keep them interested and grade 5 an inbetween of 3 and 6 with more facts and less visuals. Last year I thought the older grades would be easier but was wrong. The girls wouldn't even look at the worms and pond bugs, the boys had less attention span than the girls and just made retarded comments. I am by myself in there so I am highly out numbered. Anyone have useful suggestions? I may get a shot at grade 12 as well next semester and prefer not to bore them with chemistry. That is hilarious too as I have never seen the inside of a grade 12 classroom. I was thinking for grade 8 maybe actually setting up a biotope aquarium from a picture. but tha may actually be more suitable for an older grade. Any suggestions are good ones within reason. I have two weeks to prepare each project and one day to deliver it. As for the killies it carried on after I left them alone and they did amazing.

This will be super easy, no explanations just YES or no. Since Toothcarps include guppy, molly, platy and endlers, etc... Livebearers Fundulopanchax, Aphyosemion, Nothobranchius, etc.... Egg laying killies Just to not waste space We can also cover live foods here since it is the ideal food for killies and cultures can be iffy at times for new keepers so We could include live foods, daphnia, scuds, whiteworms, grindals, Artemia, microworms, walterworms, microfex worms and even wild food collection practices. So just Yes or no if You think this board would be something You may get use from. Thanks

You could also coat Your rocks in two part epoxy resin, then You could still see the agrocrete. I have also covered styrofoam with resin. It is quite a bit cheaper than most potable water tank paints and both get You very buzzed so good ventillation is a must. West systems is nice to use and really strong yet flexible.

I pulled 28 eggs from the mop today only 2 days after they arrived. Eggs are soaked in water and two drops blue meth, yep You can still get blue if You look hard enough. I am expecting a 14 to 21 day hatch, 14 for water, 21 for peat, the next batch I will peat hatch just so I can write a comparable in My species report. There is a Male and two females to the trio but no guarantee the eggs are from both of them. I also pulled 25 eggs from My Notho Taeniopygus spawning box today which was a pleasant suprise so it'll be a good spring this year. Man My eyes aren't what they use to be, them damn notho egg hunts almost give me a headache. I began using coconut fibres in the spawning box and transfering the eggs to a container with peat, I find the eggs much easier to find than peat and with hard water killies like this species it's best not to add peat to the tank. My BBS seem to have expired which shouldn't suprise me so the diet has been blood worms cut in half for the smaller guys, and daphnia with a touch of golden pearls 500-800 micron. It's good to be pickin eggs again damn I love them killies!!!!

Yes there is, Yes there are..... Quote" Yes there is, Yes there are" Unquote

We tried it at one time, it kinda failed. It is a great idea though but just didn't seem to work. Feel free though to just post what You have and what You are looking for in the classifieds at the bottom of the forum, that seems to be the best way on this forum. Posting fish list after fish list is great but, what if You are fish list 800? Often I will just look under search for the species I want and sort through the list till I find someone who has bred it.

I have seen the video from Natu-rose I am well aware how the process works, it is not the same value in the green form though. We had this arguement almost two years ago and I am tired of reading other peoples quotes. These quotes mean nothing to me unless I know the person quoting it personally. Back to killies...... The Question still is....Killi post or not to killi post? As far as killies go, the post could include headers on live food as well since live foods are cultured for killies more than almost every other fish.