Fisher

Welcome... and enjoy

thanks much!

what do you say?

mmm - Sushi at the auction! Nice touch ACE!

I settled for a dram of Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban... at home. edit: ok, I lied... it was two.

Here it is folks. The photo is taken right of center so the couch arm doesn't block the left cabinet door.

If the scratch is significant, you'll have better results hiding the scratch than buffing it out. Anything you try will have consequence. So pick your poison. Here are a few ideas: Ignore it. Replace the front panel. Spin the tank around to put the scratch to the back. Cover the scratch from the outside by adding an even border of paint or a strip of background along the rim. any combination of the above. best of luck

Real wood, simply assembled and simply finished. I like it! Baseboards will keep your stand away from the wall far enough to just run your electrical cords up the back of the stand. It looks like 2 doors on the right side of your photo. Are they for the two ends or are they for two of the three front openings?

The stain cabinet2 shows more red than cabinet #1 – I reckon I didn’t stir the can as well as I should have. So the door (which still isn't done) will likely be a different tint still. I painted 6 inches of the left rear panel; just enough to hide the plumbing. The side panels are not painted (after deciding to strip the paint off the side panels of tank #1).

a noble endeavor! Good for you for asking I asked (myself) the same question a few years ago. The opinions I found here were a good cross-section of the opinions I found, generally, everywhere else. Frustrating because it was impossible for me to pick a single canister that nobody had a complaint against. It was so blinkin' discouraging! But I did learn that 1) people have their faves in spite of the complaints, and 2) some "canister failures" happen because of operator error or simple ignorance (which some hobbyists will rarely admit, and are likely never to repeat). So I resolved to pick the manufacturer I already favored, and all the potential problems that accompany their good name. To date, I haven't encountered a single one..... Maybe since you've been on in Jun, you settled on one by now. I hope you let us know what you decided.

I agree - once the tank is filled, it isn't moving horizontally. What I have in mind is how the two parts might settle while the tank is filled. That is the opportunity for 4,000 lbs to shift the stand halves vertically. I'm just gutless when it comes to stuff like that. All I can think about is hearing, "Tick, tick, tick, tshhh," aware of what 300gal of water will do to a basement, and my days to follow. Permanently shortening the stand to get it down stairs is a plan too. But once it's down there and in place, pedestal or no, it probably isn't going to move too often either.

You can search the classifieds for "Eheim" and find ads like this or you can post a "Looking For" ad in the same place. Distance needn't be a deal breaker. Sometimes members who travel betwixt Calgary and Edm post their travel plans here. Used classics sell. I bought five here before I bought my first one new. And had I waited another 2wks, I could have saved myself some shekels and made it six.

Splitting your stand in half and then finishing it as two stands is a cleaver solution. Stabilizing the two halves and making them perfectly flush with each other, as though they were a single unit, would be uncompromisingly vital. 300g is a lot of water. If the halves have some flex or unevenness in the middle, there's plenty of weight to stress your tank and make a mess... an added risk. :cry: I'm guessing your tank is 96x30x24 (high) - which fits down your stairs. So your stand is taller than your tank. If you are prepared to spilt your stand vertically and reframe the ends, how about cutting your stand on the horizontal - whatever it takes to match your tank dimensions - and reframe those two pieces? Reframe the bottom of the top part. Reframe the top of the lower part (which would form a pedestal). You would preserve the horizontal integrity of your stand, and you could bolt the stand and the pedestal back together to restore its height. Best of luck.

You can get 54W T5s @ Lee Valley for 10 beans. 184 Street and 104 Ave

If they're dead, they'll probably still be laying there in the morning.

Thanks! Final photos of Cabinet #1 will be at the end of this thread. Cabinet #2 is simply the 2nd verse; same as the first. So when it's in place and tank #2 is running, I'll post a final photo of the whole living room wall. Life got busy and I have yet to deal with the new door design. So I'm reverting back to Plan A and I'll deal with the door modification as a retrofit on both cabinets. Cabinet #2 is stained, varnished, and ready to bring upstairs. Its door is trimmed to size and ready for stain. So I'll probably get to the door later.

I had a good teacher

I stalled out after staining the cabinet. In order to use concealed hinges on the door, which I made out of 3/8" plywood, I have to put a false frame on the inside face of the door to accomodate cup holes. Cutting the cup holes are the biggest obstacle. A forstner bit, and a jig, maybe a drill press... which another woodworker in our family happens to have Plus, I only have the edge of a 2x4 to screw the hinge to the cabinet. So I expect to add a 1x3 plate to the cabinet for that purpose. I won't stain the door and varnish everything until the door is ready to install. sigh.

+1 on both accounts. Fail-safes are cheap insurance depending on the cost to replace your plants and livestock. There's a market for controllers because heaters will eventually fail. Perhaps you could try contacting Hydor and explain your circumstance. They might be willing to exchange your heater, gratis It's times like this when people will think, "Never again! Once bitten..." But any heater that's been on the market as long as the ETH inline is bound to have its share of failures, which is why controllers sell. If tragedies like yours were the norm, your internet search would've netted you a litany of complaints and boycotts that suggest the ETH is a lemon. Each of my 200W were 2yrs old when I bought them. The fist one has been in service for 2yrs. All I do is pass a bottle brush through it when I'm doing canister maint. I still think it's a good product slingshotz. Be brave and get back on the horse. Besides, any inline you look at, you'll compare to the Hydor

good thing you're not drinking that stuff

rumor is fishclubgirl is hosting a hospitality room. sashimi, faux caviar, ritz crackers and ice tea.

you can't see them? No we cant clean lines, two doors, well done. ... sure you can't see them?

90day update: I started wrestling with this configuration 45days into installation. The venturi doesn't draw enough water through the skimmer to pull semi-solids through the throttle point. Eventually the skimmer cup floods, and no flow. So I wound up plumbing this using a tee after all. The Eheim Installation kits are a larger ID than the standard suction/siphon tube. Therefore the flow velocity through the Installation Kit is slower; too slow to sustain the flow required to keep the throttle point clear. On a positive note, I found a barbed tee @ TnT Hydroponics for that actually has a 1/2" OD for 75¢. The Eheim 494 tee connector is $8. Yay for small victories.

Since the weather is about as dependable as a @%*^! with a #^%& in the toaster, I decided to stain this thing in the basement instead of taking it outside. Turned on the furnace fan and no ill-effects to report (so far). My wife is baking a Cinnamon Bun Cake, and I'm thinking about putting the all-seasons on the truck. :tongue:

ACE has a forum here all their own. Try posting your inquiry there and ACE members can see it. http://albertaaquatica.com/index.php?showforum=109 edit: I tried sending you a pm, but cannot.