Vallisneria

My friends are moving back to Edmonton from Fort Mac this weekend. They have a 30g with some ghost catfish, Kribs, SAE and some schooling fish(rainbowfish or tetras, not sure). The plan is for me to look after them for a couple weeks until they take possession of their new house next month. I've never really had to transport fish for that long before. Is it best to bag them all up individually and put them in a cooler or can they just put them in buckets or tupperware and bring them that way. I'm thinking bagged individually but I figured i'd ask here since a bucket might be easier for non fish people to handle. Any tips or tricks for a day long transport?

9-10am : Drop off your lots 10-11am : Viewing of the items 11am : Auction starts

Don't have much this year probably just some shrimp, a couple plants and some driftwood.

I had a bad outbreak of this in my planted tank and it took a little while to get rid of it but its gone. I did a big water change and tried to clean most of it out, dosed kno3 and covered my entire tank with black garbage bags to keep all the light out for 4 days(as per Jason's suggestion). Then I did a big water change to suck out as much BGA as I could and double dosed the kno3. This didn't kill it 100% the first time so I repeated the 4 day black out 2 weeks later, after the plants had time to recover a bit. The key is to make sure no light is getting through and its long enough. Make sure to use black garbage bags and cover everything,including the top. Also, you need to fix whatever caused the issue in the first place. Something is out of balance and if you dont' fix it the BGA can come back. A few years ago I also used Erythromycin to treat some BGA and that worked well but I don't really like the idea of using chemical to treat it if you have fish in there. I only had a few that I removed to a Qtank while I dosed the tank. Also if its on certain decorations you can take them out and clean them with bleach.

Yes, its on Sunday October 28th @ High Park Community hall(where it usually is)

The October Meeting will be Tuesday October 2nd. Place: Allendale Community Hall 6330 105A Street Topic: Bowl Show - bring something to show off to other members and maybe they will win a prize for you. Speaker: TBD Time: 7:30

I used to keep H. Multispinosa, had a breeding pair and a couple others. I also found them very skittish and it didn't matter on the tank decorations. I added a couple celebes rainbowfish as I had them already but any of the small schooling fish should work. Adding the dithers did help a bit, the rainbow cichlids came out more but were still scared if they saw movement in the room. Another thing that helped was covering the back and sides of the tank with a background. Good luck, even though they were skittish they were still one of my fav cichlids.

I just toss them into my other tanks and they eventually get eaten. I figure its the cycle of life.

Awesome speaker tonight :thumbs:

Has anyone kept Barclaya longifolia? It says it goes dormant every so often. How often is that and for how long? Does it do that even if you keep the aquarium constant, no changes in temp or light? What are your experiences?

I just feed all my shrimp(orange and cherry) NLS, which ever size/kind I have at the time. Usually its the cichlid variety or sometimes the H2O waffers. I've never bought special shrimp food

Use a file hosting site like Photobucket then copy and paste the link

Same here, I get mine at All Seasons.

Can't a pharmacy special order it in if you want it?

Can you take a picture of the vals? How come you are only turning the co2 on for an hour? Is there any other plants in the tank? If so are they also showing problems? Also, I've "melted" my vals before by dosing excel. How much excel are you using?

Are you fertilizing at all? Any co2 or carbon? Lighting? Does the yellowing start at the tip of the old growth, then move down the leaf or does the whole leaf just turn yellow? Is the new growth yellow too or just stunted? A lack of iron can cause the plant to be pale and yellow but a nitrogen deficiency can also turn older leaves yellow(this usually starts at the edges and moves across the leaf).

EI is easy, pretty much the same as using liquid ferts. Just toss a scoop of dry ferts into the tank every day or so and do a water change at the end of the week(or I tend to go 10-14days). Nothing really complicated and its much cheaper when dosing big tanks.

I had luck keeping BN Plecos in my cherry shrimp tank. But any other fish it is more trial and error. I had luck keeping a betta with some cherries but then when I tried it with another betta he ate them all. Endlers worked out ok for me, never saw them eat any of my shrimp but then I've heard other people having issues when they tried. So my rule is any fish will at least try to eat the shrimp and you kind of have to test out your specific fish. Usually if you have a breeding colony of cherries a fish picking off a couple shrimp now and then won't really make an impact.

See if you can find a funnel that will fit the end of your hose.

I just keep them in the tank too. I don't think they affect the hardness all that much that you really need to worry

Love the carving!

Yeah I also had some Julidochromis that a few grew normally and a couple "runts" stayed in the 1/2"-1" size. All were in the same tank. Not sure why some didn't grow.

I think some fish can just be smaller or slower growers, especially if there are other more dominant fish in the tank. A few years ago I bought 6 1" angelfish, all from the same source, fed the same things, same tank etc. 2 grew really fast, 2 were about average, and 2 stayed really small not growing much at all. I didn't see much aggression or chasing but the 2 smaller ones definitely were the submissive, with the 2 biggest being more dominant. The more dominant fish ended up getting a bit more food but the small guys still ate. I eventually had to remove the 2 little ones because they were still only 1-1 1/2" while the others were 2 1/2-4". There might be breeders breeding for smaller angels but I've never seen a "pygmy" line before.

I tried it. It was ok but I didn't really like it and stop using it after a couple months. I tried it on 2 different tanks. A 5g and a 20g. I also tried to make a vivarium in the 5g and the canister didn't work for that. I found the water level had to be filled right up to the top of the tank for the canister to work properly. Even if the water level was a couple inches lower then the top the little canister didn't have enough juice to pump it up the intake that far. In the 20g it worked ok as the tank was filled to the top but I found it was a pain to clean and get primed again. Eventually sold it at the auction. Depending on what you want to do in your vivarium you'd probably be better off getting a small internal filter like a elite mini or some of those made for little betta tanks.

OK thanks John. Hopefully the new tabs start to help