clockwork Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Hi all, I am wondering if anyone has ever built a custom inline heater for canister filters? I was looking at some today at a certain Big store and was astounded at their price (isn't everything in this hobby expensive?). I was thinking of using a design similar to a DIY inline co2 reactor. Basically the idea is this: PVC pipe, hose in and out at either end, with heater of adequate size inside. This would be split into the outflow hose of the filter. There are a few obvious problems that are presented by this... 1. Can I effectively seal the hole that would be required to run the power cable out of the device. I am thinking of epoxy or some sort of plumbing adhesive, does anyone have any thoughts on this? 2. Can I mount the heater on a curved surface... thinking of using more epoxy instead of the usual suction cups. 3. Will this actually heat the water as consistently as (or more) an in tank heater? Any comments, thoughts, experiences, advice, dos/dont's would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
African_Fever Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 I've been wondering the same thing myself for a while. I've been thinking you could use about a 3" diameter PVC, endcaps, with one endcap drilled so a submersible heater can stick through it so you can still adjust the temperature, with the heater siliconed in place. I would think by having the line from the canister attached at opposite ends (on the PVC, not the end caps), you'd have enough circulation around the heater for it to work sufficiently. I think the hardest part would be attaching the lines from the canister and not having them leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kayen Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=505816 Maybe this might help. Will have to rig that a but though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Chicklets Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 If you were to take a piece of 3" pvc about 2' long thread on end caps on each end drill and tap a barbed fitting into each end then drill a second hole for the heater in one end and silicone a submersible heater so just the top of it sticks out it might work. with the flow past the heater you should get a consistant temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinthebassist Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 For a standard heater, 3" is to way to big. You want to minimize the changes in flow on your system, since adding things like this will slow down your flow. I've seen many people make their own external heaters, its very easy. Get some 1.5" PVC for the main shaft, a T connector, two 1.5" to threaded 3/4 fittings for hosebards. Then get a water tight cord grip for the size of heater you have. Put it together, and insert the heater into it. I made a ghetto sketch in paint. The red blue thing is the heater, which slides threw the water tight cordgrip that is threaded to a PVC fitting. The solid black things are hose barbs. This way if you heater breaks, its easily replaced, unlike the totally stupid idea i've seen of using silicone to hold it the pvc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkangel Posted March 21, 2008 Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 For a standard heater, 3" is to way to big. You want to minimize the changes in flow on your system, since adding things like this will slow down your flow. I've seen many people make their own external heaters, its very easy. Get some 1.5" PVC for the main shaft, a T connector, two 1.5" to threaded 3/4 fittings for hosebards. Then get a water tight cord grip for the size of heater you have. Put it together, and insert the heater into it. I made a ghetto sketch in paint. The red blue thing is the heater, which slides threw the water tight cordgrip that is threaded to a PVC fitting. The solid black things are hose barbs. This way if you heater breaks, its easily replaced, unlike the totally stupid idea i've seen of using silicone to hold it the pvc. This idea looks like it might work, However you would also want easy access and disassembly for cleaning. After all anyone that has driftwood or plants in the tank, in time the crudd that builds up will eventually have to be cleaned out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted March 21, 2008 Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 Okay and why do all this work. Why not just drop a heater in your tank. Please explain. What advandage would a inline heater give us. Call me simple...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Chicklets Posted March 21, 2008 Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 Okay and why do all this work. Why not just drop a heater in your tank. Please explain.What advandage would a inline heater give us. Call me simple...lol Partially for aesthetics, and partially to have more even heating throughout the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinard Posted March 21, 2008 Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 I like the idea but what u need to figer out is what the volume in lets say cm3 (centmeaters cubed) so find out how big the inside of your filter hose is and how big your heater is and match the pvc pipe so that with the heater u have the same amount of volume as the line off your filter has. if your pipe is to small your will creat a venturi effect, which will lower the pressure but incress the flow on the out part of the inline heater. which might screw with the suction part. sorry if this is confusing it makes sence in my head Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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