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Lighting/CO2 Automation


Ph11p3540
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I found these neat digital out door chrismas light timers at Home Depot last year for $24 bucks each. Since I often work very long hours I sometimes fail to control how long my lights are on.

To fix this problem I have a timer for each light and CO2 silinoid valve. To keep the mess of timers and cords under control I made a simple board which the timers are screwed to. The timers only have one screw lug so they are further restrained by 1/4"dowels. The 3/4" thick plywood board measures 16" by 22" has one single power bar with 4 christmass light timers plugged in. This board can still have 4 additional timers or aquarium sensor units fastened to it.

If you think this looks ugly I guess you could build this as a shallow cabinet.

This set up is firmly screwed to the wall beside the aquarium 24" off the floor. Everything electrical is neat and organized.

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I have my lights and CO2 on timers too. I bought a timer/ powerbar combo at princess auto for 9$. It was 4 regular plugs(not on the timer) and 4 timed plugs. That way I can have the lights and co2 on the timer but the heater and fliter aren't and its all in 1 bar so it keeps the tangle of cords down.

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I found these neat digital out door chrismas light timers at Home Depot last year for $24 bucks each. Since I often work very long hours I sometimes fail to control how long my lights are on.

To fix this problem I have a timer for each light and CO2 silinoid valve. To keep the mess of timers and cords under control I made a simple board which the timers are screwed to. The timers only have one screw lug so they are further restrained by 1/4"dowels. The 3/4" thick plywood board measures 16" by 22" has one single power bar with 4 christmass light timers plugged in. This board can still have 4 additional timers or aquarium sensor units fastened to it.

If you think this looks ugly I guess you could build this as a shallow cabinet.

This set up is firmly screwed to the wall beside the aquarium 24" off the floor. Everything electrical is neat and organized.

Picture??? :)

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I run 4 lights and my CO2 solinoid off just one timer. Plug a power bar INTO the timer and now u have a timer with many plug-ins :)

I do the same but go one step further by plugging the timer into a surge protected computer powerbar on one of the 'always on' outlets. The filters and heaters get plugged into the regular outlets so I just flip the master switch off to turn off heaters and filters during water changes but the lights stay on. Works great as long as you get a decent timer. Most are rated for 1475 watts.

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What brand of timer do you guys use? I have had trouble finding something reliable. In the last few years I've gone through at least three timers on two tanks because the timers give out or jam. The last ones I tried were so-called "heavy duty" timers meant for large kitchen appliances.

Edited by Shai
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  • 2 weeks later...
I have my lights and CO2 on timers too. I bought a timer/ powerbar combo at princess auto for 9$. It was 4 regular plugs(not on the timer) and 4 timed plugs. That way I can have the lights and co2 on the timer but the heater and fliter aren't and its all in 1 bar so it keeps the tangle of cords down.

I gotta shop there more often for other cool stuff.

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I run 4 lights and my CO2 solinoid off just one timer. Plug a power bar INTO the timer and now u have a timer with many plug-ins :)

I use one timer for each light unit since I like to stage the light intensity throughout the day to simulate dawn, noon and evening.

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I run 4 lights and my CO2 solinoid off just one timer. Plug a power bar INTO the timer and now u have a timer with many plug-ins :)

that is a good idea, just be careful some timers are for lights only and they do have a maximum amp / wattage rating. Using it to power multiple things plugged into a power bar can overload some timers, as I found out.

Luckily the one I use had a fuse but the side of the timers case was still blackened from the heat.

So be a bit careful with that one.

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