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My First Arowana :)


rED O
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That will work good, when he's bigger get some hikari food sticks, my green aro just loves them.
when a silver gets huge he can eat a bag of the hikari sticks in a week or two, cant he?
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IF YOU COMPARE HIKARI GOLD WITH "BULK TROUT PELLETS", YOU WILL FIND ALMOST ALL NUTRITIONAL VALUES ARE QUITE CLOSELY MATCHED..EXCEPT FOR ASH AND MOISTURE CONTENT ARE SLIGHTLY LESS IN THE HIKARI..

i PAY 50 DOLLARS FOR A 25KG BAG...

THATS LESS THAN A DOLLAR A POUND..

IF YOU WERE TO BUY HIKARI GOLD BY THE POUND YOU WOULD PAY 35-40 DOLLARS MINIMUM.

IF YOU DONT BELEIVE TROUT PELLETS HAVE ADEQUATE NUTRITIONAL VALUE.. COME OVER AND SEE ALL MY FISH.. :smokey:

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i PAY 50 DOLLARS FOR A 25KG BAG...
I would not think buying 25 kg at a time is a good idea because

and I quote...

Feed Storage

Because fish feeds usually contain relatively high amounts of fish meal and/or fish oil, they are very susceptible to rancidity. In addition, ascorbic acid is highly volatile, but critical to normal growth and development of most species of fish. For these reasons, fish feeds should be purchased in small amounts, ideally at least once a month and more frequently if possible. Feeds should be stored in a cool, dry place and should never be kept on hand for more than three months. Refrigeration of dry feeds is not recommended because of the high moisture content of that environment. Freezing is an acceptable way of extending the shelf life. - University of Florida

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i PAY 50 DOLLARS FOR A 25KG BAG...
I would not think buying 25 kg at a time is a good idea because

and I quote...

Feed Storage

Because fish feeds usually contain relatively high amounts of fish meal and/or fish oil, they are very susceptible to rancidity. In addition, ascorbic acid is highly volatile, but critical to normal growth and development of most species of fish. For these reasons, fish feeds should be purchased in small amounts, ideally at least once a month and more frequently if possible. Feeds should be stored in a cool, dry place and should never be kept on hand for more than three months. Refrigeration of dry feeds is not recommended because of the high moisture content of that environment. Freezing is an acceptable way of extending the shelf life. - University of Florida

He probably uses a kilo every 3-4 days if you seen those bass eat, or even fed em. Handfull after handfull. All his fish look good too. Most people buy what will last them 3-4 months too. I hate having to run out every couple weeks to buy fish food.

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i PAY 50 DOLLARS FOR A 25KG BAG...
I would not think buying 25 kg at a time is a good idea because

and I quote...

Feed Storage

Because fish feeds usually contain relatively high amounts of fish meal and/or fish oil, they are very susceptible to rancidity. In addition, ascorbic acid is highly volatile, but critical to normal growth and development of most species of fish. For these reasons, fish feeds should be purchased in small amounts, ideally at least once a month and more frequently if possible. Feeds should be stored in a cool, dry place and should never be kept on hand for more than three months. Refrigeration of dry feeds is not recommended because of the high moisture content of that environment. Freezing is an acceptable way of extending the shelf life. - University of Florida

He probably uses a kilo every 3-4 days if you seen those bass eat, or even fed em. Handfull after handfull. All his fish look good too. Most people buy what will last them 3-4 months too. I hate having to run out every couple weeks to buy fish food.

yeah... but for me :rolleyes: It would take a while to use 55 lbs of food. Buy the time I would get half way threw they would not have lots of vitamin content left and the pellets would just be fillers. Edited by rED O
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Nice fish! :)

redO - what you quoted isn't exactly accurate when one is discussing foods designed for aquarium use.

I have great respect for Dr. Ruth Francis-Floyd (the author of the text above that you quoted), but her experience lies more in commercial feed applications in large ponds, and more generic farm feeds. Stabilized (phosphorylated) forms of ascorbic acid are used in most tropical fish foods that are made today, which along with various antioxidants/preservatives greatly increases the shelf life of a dry food. One doesn't need to be purchasing fish food every few weeks due to nutritional loss, such as Ruth suggested. I feed out of the same container for the better part of a year at a time, and have been doing so for several years with no issues. Using a food of very high nutritional value, and utilizing proper storage & handling is the key to optimum shelf life. If stored in a cool, dry, well ventilated area, most dry foods can easily be stored for 12 months with minimum nutritional loss.

Bulk trout feed will offer a fish reasonable quantities of most nutrients, but by & large it is a far cry from offering a fish (especially warm water species) optimum nutrition. Beyond the "crude" min/max values, the vast majority of nutritional values will not even be found on the bag. The protein content in farm feed such as trout chow is typically derived from a single source (generic fish meal) which is comprised of processing plant waste. Many of these formulas are also excessive in both carb & fat content, in order to ensure that all protein is spared as an energy source. (in order to save feed costs) Over time these excessive amounts of carbs &/or fats will cause health issues with most warm water species of fish, such as lipid deposition in & around organs such as the liver.

While generic bulk farm feed such as trout chow is without a doubt very 'economical' for those who own massive systems, and massive fish, it isn't very practical for someone looking for feed options for a single arowana.

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Nice fish! :)

redO - what you quoted isn't exactly accurate when one is discussing foods designed for aquarium use.

I have great respect for Dr. Ruth Francis-Floyd (the author of the text above that you quoted), but her experience lies more in commercial feed applications in large ponds, and more generic farm feeds. Stabilized (phosphorylated) forms of ascorbic acid are used in most tropical fish foods that are made today, which along with various antioxidants/preservatives greatly increases the shelf life of a dry food. One doesn't need to be purchasing fish food every few weeks due to nutritional loss, such as Ruth suggested. I feed out of the same container for the better part of a year at a time, and have been doing so for several years with no issues. Using a food of very high nutritional value, and utilizing proper storage & handling is the key to optimum shelf life. If stored in a cool, dry, well ventilated area, most dry foods can easily be stored for 12 months with minimum nutritional loss.

Bulk trout feed will offer a fish reasonable quantities of most nutrients, but by & large it is a far cry from offering a fish (especially warm water species) optimum nutrition. Beyond the "crude" min/max values, the vast majority of nutritional values will not even be found on the bag. The protein content in farm feed such as trout chow is typically derived from a single source (generic fish meal) which is comprised of processing plant waste. Many of these formulas are also excessive in both carb & fat content, in order to ensure that all protein is spared as an energy source. (in order to save feed costs) Over time these excessive amounts of carbs &/or fats will cause health issues with most warm water species of fish, such as lipid deposition in & around organs such as the liver.

While generic bulk farm feed such as trout chow is without a doubt very 'economical' for those who own massive systems, and massive fish, it isn't very practical for someone looking for feed options for a single arowana.

well said....

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Nice fish! :)

redO - what you quoted isn't exactly accurate when one is discussing foods designed for aquarium use.

I have great respect for Dr. Ruth Francis-Floyd (the author of the text above that you quoted), but her experience lies more in commercial feed applications in large ponds, and more generic farm feeds. Stabilized (phosphorylated) forms of ascorbic acid are used in most tropical fish foods that are made today, which along with various antioxidants/preservatives greatly increases the shelf life of a dry food. One doesn't need to be purchasing fish food every few weeks due to nutritional loss, such as Ruth suggested. I feed out of the same container for the better part of a year at a time, and have been doing so for several years with no issues. Using a food of very high nutritional value, and utilizing proper storage & handling is the key to optimum shelf life. If stored in a cool, dry, well ventilated area, most dry foods can easily be stored for 12 months with minimum nutritional loss.

Bulk trout feed will offer a fish reasonable quantities of most nutrients, but by & large it is a far cry from offering a fish (especially warm water species) optimum nutrition. Beyond the "crude" min/max values, the vast majority of nutritional values will not even be found on the bag. The protein content in farm feed such as trout chow is typically derived from a single source (generic fish meal) which is comprised of processing plant waste. Many of these formulas are also excessive in both carb & fat content, in order to ensure that all protein is spared as an energy source. (in order to save feed costs) Over time these excessive amounts of carbs &/or fats will cause health issues with most warm water species of fish, such as lipid deposition in & around organs such as the liver.

While generic bulk farm feed such as trout chow is without a doubt very 'economical' for those who own massive systems, and massive fish, it isn't very practical for someone looking for feed options for a single arowana.

well said....

just for my own point of interest I would like to know what kind of pellets you buy?
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today i have it a tiny piece of beef heart( not going to give lots of it until he is bigger), 3 hikari aro sicks soaked in boyds vita chem, a tiny piece of a worm and one maggot. He seems to like pellet and sticks so I am pleased with that :)

Edited by rED O
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just for my own point of interest I would like to know what kind of pellets you buy?

Was that question directed at me? If so, click on my sig line below.

IMHO a far superior product than what you are currently feeding, and by the pound far less expensive.

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just for my own point of interest I would like to know what kind of pellets you buy?

Was that question directed at me? If so, click on my sig line below.

IMHO a far superior product than what you are currently feeding, and by the pound far less expensive.

I was asking hybrid, but thanks as well :)

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