Blue Ram Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 I have a relatively new 12 gal cube tank (set up late June) that is infested with cyanobacteria. It is a freshwater tank that is very lightly stocked and gets a 25% water change weekly. It is receiving C02 via a pressured system. I have three identical tanks in a row with a Hagen HOT5 light over all tanks (48"). The wattage on the light is 54 watts. It would seem that everything is within appropriate ranges ie. water changes, light, etc. I have read some reports that even with the best husbandry on your tank it is still a problem to get rid of. Has anyone used erythromycin phosphate to kill this bacteria? I understand it is the ingredient in Maracyn. Anyone have any other suggestions? The other two identifical tanks do not have this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shai Posted August 20, 2009 Report Share Posted August 20, 2009 You can use the blackout method to get rid of it. Using chemicals runs the risk of impacting your beneficial bacteria and starting a new cycle, or creating a new strain of cyano that is resistant. Cyano prefers low NO3, so dose to bring the levels up to 10-20ppm. What ferts are you dosing in addition to the CO2? The tank is new--do you have lots of fast growing plants? How heavily planted is it? Increase your water changes to 50% a week--cyano left in the tank will rot and reduce the amount of oxygen available in the water column. Be sure to manually remove as much as you can and thoroughly vacuum the substrate. If any plants are badly covered, take them out and give them a mild bleach or peroxide bath. Also, cyano likes to grow where there is not a lot of current, so increase circulation. Increasing the amount of CO2 can help too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishkabod Posted August 20, 2009 Report Share Posted August 20, 2009 If you have the money or someone willing to lend one for you I got rid of mine with a very small UV filter. I got it at auction for twenty bucks and it's one of the best investments yet. But i didn't have even a fraction of the ligt you have. I turned the light off and the only light was hen from an 11 watt florecent on another tank in the room and when i turned the light in for a few minutes or so. Blackout sounds like the best bet. Good luck L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted August 20, 2009 Report Share Posted August 20, 2009 A sure-fire way to get rid of BGA is to do a 50% WC, dose KNO3 and shut off CO2. Then completely black-out the tank for 4 days - if your fish are healthy, don't worry about feeding - they'll be fine. After 4 days, do another 50% WC, turn your CO2 back on and dose your ferts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Ram Posted August 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2009 Unfortunately a blackout is not an option. This tank is on a rack sharing a 48" light with two other tanks. I realize more current would help but the fish are very small (rasbora galaxies and a betta) and would not appreciate strong current. After doing large water changes, how would I go about increasing KN03? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted August 20, 2009 Report Share Posted August 20, 2009 Unfortunately a blackout is not an option. This tank is on a rack sharing a 48" light with two other tanks. I realize more current would help but the fish are very small (rasbora galaxies and a betta) and would not appreciate strong current. After doing large water changes, how would I go about increasing KN03? You can leave the light on - you would have to cover the tank, anyway. Use a large blanket or towels to cover the tank completely. Black-out doesn't just mean turn out the lights, it means BLACK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shai Posted August 21, 2009 Report Share Posted August 21, 2009 (edited) You can use a black garbage bags too. Just tape them over the tank (double layered is good, to make sure no light penetrates). how would I go about increasing KN03? You want to increase NO3, so you dose KNO3, which is a dry fert. You can get some from Quick Grow at #1, 1204 Edmonton Trail NE. While you are there, get some KH2P04, K2SO4 and trace elements--then you can use the EI method. Dry ferts last a lot longer than liquid ones. : ) Edited August 21, 2009 by Shai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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