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New Stand-330 gal.


Majestic_Aquariums
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At work we get plastic molds of fake rock which are then painted and textured to the exact finish requested by the designer. If you like I could find out who the supplier is and send you a catalogue, etc. I bet with a little practise, some helpful hints and lots of patience you could get the exact look you are trying for with a fraction of the weight.

However, I can appreciate the fact that it is real and that it is a labour of love. Gotta say, with that nice of a rock stand, it sure would look good to carry that theme through the tank... I'm thinking freshwater, maybe some frontosas, or some big South Americans. :blush:

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Thanks guys! Sure is good to hear some opinions. A little heavy to say the least :wacko: So what's 6000lbs. anyway, eh?

Thanks for the idea Capt. Sounds like a good one, too! I wonder how much the cost would be? It may be something to consider. I know what you mean about the freshwater, originally that was the plan for it, as it will be quite a natural look. We were thining on a trout tank, but learned it could be a royal pain... All the red tape and everything.

Being that we were going to set up a 150 gal reef, figured what the heck.

But I definately know what you mean.

In all honesty, I have changed my mind around 6 ways to Sunday on this whole set-up :lol: Time to make a plan and stick to it!

(besides, after seeing Jim's tank again last night, We are STOKED!!!)

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I have no idea if you've put it up yet but I am willing to give you a hand, I live in edmonton though. I also have 8 yrs renovation experience (including putting in hot tubs) so if you want to take advantage of some free advice as far as load tolerances and construction I'd be more than happy to help...

Trev

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Thanks Trevor! I may well take you up on that. The biggest thing I need to figure out so far is the span distance, and what amount of steel to ensure no sag. But, then the steel in the stand is only as good as what's supporting it (posts inside columns)

I want one side to span the entire 60" or so, the width of the doors so the sump and accessories can be removed easier in the future if need be. Thinking 6" I-beam???

Teleposts will be located under the stand in the basement, and the stand will be right on top of the beam.

Next thing to check out...how much sag is in the floor, and how much flex will the drywall in the basement have before cracking. I plan on cranking those teleposts up damned good!

Worst case, out comes the drywall mud.

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  • 2 months later...

Well, so here it sits. I have all the lighting, all mechanical, (sump, skimmer, liverock) most if not all materials, and more than enough stone. UUG-it's heavy stuff, but I found some really cool emerald shale on the last trip to B.C. Now, I can't have the time avail. to start! It's dissapointing, but I am REALLY busy (if I see a day off by Christmas, I will be surprised!-most-likely mid Feb.)) Can't afford the 200hrs. I would estimate to create.

Anyone know a stand builder? :lol:

I am still taking on bookings for stands though :wacko: SUCKER FOR PUNISHMENT! :chair:

I will build this thing asap, but it isn't going to be until at least March to start.

So here I sit with 4K in equipment-(conseratively speaking), 2k in material. No time.

That's the way it goes I guess B)

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Hey Rob, just in case, here's a quick overhead sketch of the sump. The idea is to keep both the drain and the pump on the same side of the tank.

Additional information on the downdraft skimmer can be found here:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...25&pagenumber=1

Good read if you're in the planning stages of your sump.

The drain is drilled 2-3" from the top lip of the tank and has a bulkhead plumbed with a 90 degree PVC fitting. This drains directly to a storm drain.

You may wonder where the mechanical filtration compartment is. Well, in short, I believe it unecessary in properly set up tanks. There's plenty of information on RC about the mech-filtration vs none topic. Needless to say, I don't run any in my personal tanks, and have removed it completely from the tanks at the store and the tanks have never been cleaner and less hassle-free.

Anyway, if you have any questions about the sump design, just let me know.

post-29-1128062897_thumb.gif

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Also, since you're still in the planning stages, you may want to consider linear overflows on your tank as opposed to the traditional corner-type overflows.

These have HUGE advantages over corner overflows:

1. HUGE noise reduction without the use of standpipes.

2. Able to harvest more of the protein ladden surface water because of the wide surface area.

3. Far easier to service since they are much shallower.

4. More in-tank room to play with, no unsightly corner overflow.

5. No need to drill a hole in the bottom of your tank (this is always a liability with large tanks).

In addition to this, you may want to consider a closed loop for current. These offer the most flexible power to cost ratios and give you more play when it comes to wave making choices.

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