gunner Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Hi , here is some pictures of my 230 gallon planted discus tank , the tank is co2 injected ( visa PH controller ) all the test show the iron /no3/are good , i don,t have a potassium test kit on the show growing plants the new leave come out a bale green , leaves are cupped , and then after a few days brown/blackish spots start to form on the leave and just gets worse , I did have a problem with a green slime algae and my test kit was saying my PO4 were high so i did everything totry and get it down , so i know my test kit was NG , so i started adding PO4 and the green slime algae went a way , then this brown/black type kick in If anyone know what this is and how to deal with it that would be great , if you need more info let me know or PM me with your phone # and we can talk , most time this is faster. My GH = 5 //// KH = 4 and i run my PH control 6.3 I use R/O water and add alkaline buffer & equilibrium PS The last six pictures are of my sons smaller tanks 36 & 72 gallon tanks , same program and they are doing great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunner Posted November 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 I will have to get wife to post the rest of the pictures , file to big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 It looks like what's sometimes refered to "Dust Algae", which I've read is a result of an imbalance between Ca/Mg and PO4. Is there a reason why you're using RO - are you on an acreage? If you're in the city, I'd just stick w. tap water (treated w. Prime, of course) and add your Macro and Micro ferts. Skip the fiddling w. GH, KH etc. Just measure you're KH out of the tap, and adjust your controller so that you'll get around 30ppm CO2 on the CO2 chart... or get a drop-checker, and adjust your controller to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunner Posted November 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 It looks like what's sometimes refered to "Dust Algae", which I've read is a result of an imbalance between Ca/Mg and PO4. Is there a reason why you're using RO - are you on an acreage? If you're in the city, I'd just stick w. tap water (treated w. Prime, of course) and add your Macro and Micro ferts. Skip the fiddling w. GH, KH etc. Just measure you're KH out of the tap, and adjust your controller so that you'll get around 30ppm CO2 on the CO2 chart... or get a drop-checker, and adjust your controller to it. Yes i am on a acreage , we have a iron filter , can not us the water for the tap , yes i do have a drop checker it is greenest yellow , i will do some reading on this . thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Here's a link on the Method of Controlled Imbalances (MCI) - http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/algae/62516-method-controlled-imbalances-discussion-21.html Start reading at post #210 and you'll get a good idea of how to control most algae situations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claudiohv Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Here's a link on the Method of Controlled Imbalances (MCI) - http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/algae/62516-method-controlled-imbalances-discussion-21.html Start reading at post #210 and you'll get a good idea of how to control most algae situations. Wow ty so much Jason, i wish i knew this before i used antibiotics on my H.c Glosso tank that was full of cyano... what a pain that ``algae`` is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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