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CO2 Levels wacked!


Aquanerd
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I did some tests today becasue my plants aren't peraling anymore. Seems for the past while they haven't at all, which they always do, esspesaly after a water change.

So I tested my water today, here is the results:

Red Sea test kits

Nitrate - 0ppm (I know I cant seem to dose enough)

Phosphate - 0.5ppm

Hagen

Nitrate - 0ppm

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals

PH - 6.6

Tetra Test

PH - 7.0

KH - 14dh

GH - 18dh

So heres the thing with either take on my PH my CO2 levels would be outrageous

(PH)7 + 14DH = 42ppm CO2

OR

(PH)6.6 + 14DH = 105ppm

Whats wrong with that? THink my test kits out of wack?

Oh I almost forgot I have two 2 liter bottles running DIY CO2 on a hagen ladder. about a bubble a sec.

Thanks all for your time, + sorry for the subject being disaggranged. Working way to much! :wacko:

Edited by Aquanerd
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Boost your Nirate level to 10-20 ppm. KN03 is used to boost nitrates. Here .25 teaspoon raises 20 gallons of water to 11.25 ppm. Your plants might not be taking in any nutients if your Nitrate reading is corect. What size of tank? Kh level is high also, it need to be reduced to 5-6 KH. Double check your KH reading again. KH is reduced with R/O water do a 50% Water change to adjust KH if it is a true reading of 14 degrees.Increase your Pottasium level also with K2S04 where .25 teaspoon in 20 gallons of water will give you 8.25 ppm Pottasium. The k needs to be between 10-20 ppm also.

Garhan

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Yes I was going to dose my Nitrate tonight, got it to 15 ppm

I don't think that KH is to high, its only a little above where I usally am at.

I am dosing the PMDD method

Here is my tank perimeters

33US gallons

Two DIY Yeast 2L CO2 Bottles running Hagen Ladder

96 Watt Coralife Light Strip + 2 25 Watt fluorescent tubes under a Aquamirror

Eco-Complete mixed with Plain Gravel Half/half

200 Watt submersible Tronic heater

Temperature 27.1 Celsius (81 Fahrenheit)

Dosing KNO3, KH2PO4, MgSO4+7H2O, and trace.

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Your nitrates bottomed out, and this is the first thing you should take care of.

Secondly, your CO2 calcs are dubious. Specially considering the hagen ladder you are using. Something is skewing them. I would label your Eco-Complete as a prime suspect. I have come across some threads (APC perhaps, can't remember ...) referring to the same thing. Apparently, they had a bad batch ...

What are your tap water readings?

BTW, no need for MgSO4 with your GH ...

Edited by Milan
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Milan, your right on the money. There is something wrong witht the KH. Tap in Edmonton runs between 5 and 6 KH.

Bring your Potassium level up also after you adjust the nitrates, and stay for now to the lower side of just above 10ppm. You can increase Nitrate levels to quickly and that might shock your fish.

Last year I moved slowly away from PPMd to EI and PPS. If you need info on these systems of fertilizing let me know.

Edited by Garhan
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http://www.epcor.ca/pages/water/WaterQuali...ly/wqdaily.html

Here is the water parameters from the tap in Edmonton up to the 24th.

What is the hardness of EPCOR tap water?

EPCOR water fluctuates between 130-190 mg/L expressed as Calcium Carbonate, with an average of 163 mg/L. Washing machine manufacturers often refer to "Hardness in Grains"; the hardness in grains per American gallon is 7.5-11. Edmonton water is classed as moderate in hardness.

Edited by Garhan
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Dosing KNO3, KH2PO4, MgSO4+7H2O, and trace

Aquanerd, I've been dosing the EI method with the same nutrients, sans Epsom salts, for over a year, and have been having some great results.

Garhan, I am unfamiliar w. PPS - what's that stand for?

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Perpetual Preservation System, which Tom Barr was intially into through APC. EI is a spin off from that system of fertilization. I will see if I can find the notes that show the difference between the two systems.

What is ironic is that both PPS and EI agree to relatively the same target levels for NPK and C02 levels.+/- a few ppm. But there should be a +/- tolerance on each compound as margin of error for overdosing orsource water changes.

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Garhan, I am unfamiliar w. PPS - what's that stand for?

This is where you can find out more about PPS:

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumap...read.php?t=4241

In essence, these are the main differences in between PPS and EI:

  • PPS: Dosing based on periodically measured residual levels of NO3 and PO4. Water changes on per need basis. Macros Sources: KNO3, K2SO4, KH2PO4.
  • EI: Dosing based on estimated/predetermined fert quantities. No need for testing, but includes weekly massive (50%) water changes. Macros sources: KNO3, KH2PO4.

Edited by Milan
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Awesome, thanks for the info everyone.

I increased my Nitrates to 15ppm, I am going to check them again tonight, see how much they've gone down.

I've had the eco complete for awhile now, and it didn't mess with the KH before. Is this something that can happen after awhile?

Milan, thanks I'll cut out my MgSO4.

I dont' live in Edmonton anymore Wainwright is were I call home now. ;) I forget what the water parameters are, I'll check them and post them sometime.

Ummmm maybe I should try out the EI dosing. My tank is small so 50% WC aren't a prob, I do close to that anyway.

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When I had a 35 gal, I did 1/8 tsp KNO3 + 1/16 tsp KH2PO4 on day of WC and every other day afterward. Dosed 15mL traces every day opposite macros. 50% WC, usually Sat morning before anyone got up. :)

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I've had the eco complete for awhile now, and it didn't mess with the KH before. Is this something that can happen after awhile?

I have no ideas ... I have come across some references about people complaining about Eco-Complete leaching some phosphates into the water column raising (buffering) the KH, but no reference as to how long the effects lasted.

Nitrate 0 AGAIN! dosed.

Phosphate 0.2

Keep adding as much as it takes to maintain the targets ... Make sure you don't dose KH2PO4 and TE's on the same day. Actually, few hours apart is fine ... This is because PO4 interferes with chelators, rendering Fe unavailable to plants.

Edited by Milan
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