green slime algae and CO2 with a powerhead

[windeindoiel]

Ok so my hair algae problem has definately gone down, I still have some in there but it's at a much more manageable level. Now the hard algae on the glass is coming back for the first time in like a month and I'm getting some weird slime looking green stuff on the plant leaves. What is it, what causes it and how do I get rid of it?

Also my powerhead is hooked up to my DIY CO2 (2L pop bottle, 25 gallon tank), during the night I unplug the powerhead and plug in 3 bubble stones (I worry about CO2 poisoning for the fish). Sometimes (I haven't noticed if it's after nighttime or if this just randomly happens during the day) the powerhead isn't spraying water and CO2 out anymore, but a big bubble has formed under the powerhead. So I assume the bubble is totally carbon dioxide and it's just accumulating there instead of being sprayed into the tank. Then if I poke at it and get it out all this white cloudy stuff comes out of the powerhead and the powerhead works normally again. What's going on?

[jvision]

Ok so my hair algae problem has definately gone down, I still have some in there but it's at a much more manageable level. Now the hard algae on the glass is coming back for the first time in like a month and I'm getting some weird slime looking green stuff on the plant leaves. What is it, what causes it and how do I get rid of it?

The Green Spot Algae is there b/c there is either a deficiecy of CO2 or PO4. Are you fertilizing at all? Is the tank fully planted? If so, I'd go w. upping the CO2 first (always the 1st recommendation). If it's just CO2, you'll see the algae disappearing in a day or two.

The Slime, is probably Blue-Green Algae (Cyanobacteria), which is a sign of low CO2 &/or NO3. There's a common denonminator, here . Try upping your CO2. Maybe add a 2nd bottle?

Also my powerhead is hooked up to my DIY CO2 (2L pop bottle, 25 gallon tank), during the night I unplug the powerhead and plug in 3 bubble stones (I worry about CO2 poisoning for the fish). Sometimes (I haven't noticed if it's after nighttime or if this just randomly happens during the day) the powerhead isn't spraying water and CO2 out anymore, but a big bubble has formed under the powerhead. So I assume the bubble is totally carbon dioxide and it's just accumulating there instead of being sprayed into the tank. Then if I poke at it and get it out all this white cloudy stuff comes out of the powerhead and the powerhead works normally again. What's going on?

The thing w. DIY CO2, is that the yeast & sugar are good food for bacteria - that's what the white stuff is. When you shut off your powerhead at night, the bacteria have an easier time growing. However, you're probably doing a good thing by unplugging the CO2 at night if you have a high fish population. If your tank doesn't have a high fishload, and is fully planted, and you're fertilizing, you probably could get away w. keeping the CO2 going all the time.

HTH

[pat]

Also my powerhead is hooked up to my DIY CO2 (2L pop bottle, 25 gallon tank), during the night I unplug the powerhead and plug in 3 bubble stones (I worry about CO2 poisoning for the fish). Sometimes (I haven't

There is no need to unplug your CO2. As long as you are bubbling, most of the CO2 will be bubbled out.

[Milan]

There are some pieces of information missing here ...

1. What is your wpg (lights watt/gal)? If it's under 1.5 (on a medium size tank -> less than 80g), CO2 is very unlikely the culprit.
   
2. Have you tested NO3 and PO4? You should keep them in 10-20 ppm and around 0.5 ppm range respectively. NO3 test can be done at most LFS free of charge, but not the PO4. Test before a water change. It most likely that that the lack of these (one or both) is causing algae to take advantage over plants, as Jvision suggested.
   

I agree with Pat .. No need to shut off your DIY CO2 over night. If you used pressurized system at high bubble rates, if you have next to no plant bio-mass, if surface agitation is next to none .... Then perhaps ...

Edited May 17, 2006 by Milan

[windeindoiel]

I think my wattage is 1.44. This is a small tank though, only a foot deep and the lights are less than an inch from the water line. The light runs the full length of the aquarium. If I keep the lights that close to the water and don't use CO2 I get crazy hair algae (like I had to remove it every day and the next it would be about an inch long again all over everything). So I think my lighting is ok for the tank size.

I was thinking of upping my CO2 to a 4L container, or perhaps using seachems organic carbon, does anyone have experience with that?

I thought lack of nutrients might be the problem so I added some fertilizer this morning. I'll be sure to go buy both those test kits, I guess I should own those anyway.

So I think maybe I'll leave the CO2 on and just plug in the bubbler at night too, that should cause enough surface agitation I suppose. Will that fix my bubble of carbon dioxide problem?

And thanks for the help guys.

[jvision]

I use Seachem's Excel, and it works great; but, can be costly on larger tanks!

I've had consistancy troubles w. DIY CO2, so I use Excel on smaller tanks, exclusively.

If you keep the powerhead on all night, you'll likely not encounter the 'white clog' anymore.

[Milan]

I thought lack of nutrients might be the problem so I added some fertilizer this morning. I'll be sure to go buy both those test kits, I guess I should own those anyway.

Windeindoiel, bear in mind that most of the commercial ferts are based on K+TE formula, which means they have no Nitrogen and Phosphorus components. The only commercial ones that that I know of, are Nutrafin PlantGro NPK (green), and Seachem "Nitrogen" and "Phosphorus". Another, cheaper option would be using the KNO3 and KH2PO4, from a hydroponic store.

However, I would not jump to conclusions before you test the actual NO3 and PO4 levels in your tank.

[windeindoiel]

I thought lack of nutrients might be the problem so I added some fertilizer this morning. I'll be sure to go buy both those test kits, I guess I should own those anyway.

Windeindoiel, bear in mind that most of the commercial ferts are based on K+TE formula, which means they have no Nitrogen and Phosphorus components. The only commercial ones that that I know of, are Nutrafin PlantGro NPK (green), and Seachem "Nitrogen" and "Phosphorus". Another, cheaper option would be using the KNO3 and KH2PO4, from a hydroponic store.

However, I would not jump to conclusions before you test the actual NO3 and PO4 levels in your tank.

I assumed that the fish would provide enough nitrogen (1 dwarf puffer, I believe 6 otos, 2 amanos and 2 wood shrimp), and I'm looking at my fertilizer and it doesn't contain a lot of phosphorous. I might have to buy a supplement with that in it. And I'll have to test my water.

Also I'm going to put peat under the gravel, do you think that will give the plants that grow out of the substrate an edge over the algae?

[Milan]

Peat will definitely help, specially root feeders. How much, I can't tell. Make sure you add it sparingly. Just sprinkle in the lower layer, and top it with 1-3mm gravel. Too much of this stuff will put you in a misery.

Your assumption about Nitrogen source may be correct, or may not be ... Test will tell.