Garhan

I'm not sure on the Pool filter sand. Check to see if it is inert. I know the AC people like it and I seen it used in a 150 gallon African tank once before. So I cannot comment on the product. As far as the sand goes Ive been using sandblasting sand for several years without any problems. You can always mix it with something a little courser. No on the incandescent light, dont waste your money. HD or Rona sell a 2 bulb flourescent fixture for about 20.00 from time to time. Use the Daylight Deluxe light strips for a full spectrum bulb. This will give you about 40 watts over the tank. You may want to skirt in the fixture to make it look more aplealing. Both plants would do fine, but replant the clippings on both and discard the bottoms. (experiment with them anyways) Glosstigma elatinodes, as a foreground plant, Hemianthiusmicranthemoides as a midground plant, and Limnophila aquatica as a back tall corner piece. Place about 1.5-2" of Profile on the bottom of the tank and add approxamately 1-1.5" of top sand (what ever you choose). No need to fertilize substrate with most true aquatic plants as they collect nutients primarily from the water colum. Although it is benifical to some plants such as swords or crypts and water lillies which are marsh plants.

Dont go with the laterite. It is way to expensive for the moderate results achieved. Go to CT and pick up Schultz Profile. It is an outdoor aquatic planting soil and is inert. But has excellent CEC, iron, and micronutrients. All for 7.00/ 5Kg bag. top the Profile off with a fine layer 2" 0f gravel or sandblasting sand. As for a plant selection in a 10 gallon tank , I would recommend fine leaved plants as broad leafed plant will look very crowded with out much density to the planting.

There is a C02 chart available at Chuck Gaud's website. Definite issue with the marble. I would recommend petrified wood for a classic display rock. In your filters run only the following media, sponges, ceramic rings, and or peat pellets. The latter peat is not absolutely necassary, but it does assist in stabalizing your lower ph levels and introduces other nutients benifical for your plant. Peat will also leach out the tanins and stain the water. Run no charcoal, zeolite or any of the other chemical filteration products other than what I mentioned. If you need to from time to time run charcoal, go ahead and do so but only for short periods of time. As it will remove fertizlers, trace elements and medications.

First you need to up your C02 concentration so that it is between 20 and 30 ppm. You can do this also (C02 saturation)by getting your KH to a 4 or 5 degree level. Maintain your ph at the current levels, but up your KH. What type of filteration are you using?

Try Best Plumbing in North Edmonton.

Bubble counters are easy to build. What you need is a piece of 3/4" Ridgid tubing approxamately 5" long and 2- rubber stoppers. Drill a hole for 1/8 " ridgid tubing in each stopper. Place one stopper firmly in each end of the tubing. Ther now you have a bubble counter. Use heater holder to place it on the outside of your tank. Place a one way check valve into the line going into the bottom of the counter. Ridgid tubing can be purchased at most LFS locations in Edmonton or Calgary. I posted a picture of a regulator and bottle with this counter under one of Milans posts on C02. It is under C02 Concentration; ph vs. kh Garhan index.php_act_Attach_type_post_id_2055343

I like the addition of the filter flattener, for a lack of better words. Garhan

Read the Post in the Planted Tank section :C02 Treatise it will go through allot of other isses for DIY C02 systems and more.

The only time I stagger my lights is when I combat some forms of algae invasion. Otherwise I run the tank (varies on tank size and density) from 10-12 hours of light per day. Also one of things a friend of mine does (another plant enthusiast-here in Edmonton) is that he has his pressurized system on a electronic solenoid that is plugged into a wall timer, and it turns his C02 on and off. On -3 hours before lights come on and -off- 1 hour before lights go off. In this way he feels that the C02 is better utilized by the plants at first light and there is no over dosing of the tank at night when the plants are not using the C02. This likely would also assist in lower Ph swings as versed to a steady flow throughout a 24 hour period. He maintains his ph at 6.8 throughout the day. This is monitored by his electronic Ph meter. And it is to this meter that he adjusts his C02 input.

What were you running for daylight hours before. I thought you were always a 12 hrs/day.

Milan also the time of day on the Ph tests will vary. Especially true with C02 introduction.

i am sure they would. But they can be changed out from time to time also.

I thought this was worth showing from another site. I think this is well done, balanced, color co-ordinated and simply a beautiful display.

How long has the new revised system been running before you measured ppm calculation.

Dont get caught.

I use a set of curved stainless steel surgical scissors. They are about 2" long on the shear end and another 5" on the handle. It will look like a lawn, but only for a short while, until the new growth comes in thicker.

:welcome: Garhan

Milan, that keeps getting better all the time. With the sag you can if like trim it like grass. It will then grow in thicker. Garhan

Here is the 5lbs. bottle with regulator I purchased last weekend from another AA member. This 1 is on the 50. I also have the same on the 150 gallon that I purchased new.

You also likely will require a higher C02 output, to get your Ph to drop further down towards the desired ph level you would need to get the 30 ppm. Have you considered a 5lb. bottle and regulator ?

Im not sure I will check it out. Tanins, I thought would lower your Ph anways.

I myself have tried various styles of diffusers, reactors and other things to disolve C02 in the water colum. Bar none the Powerhead is by far the most effient and trouble free. It also will achieve the desired ppm level of c02 that you need to make your plants happy. I know this by not just my own expewrience, but also from several other very succesful plant enthusiasts results. Wether you use a home made brew/reactor or a C02 bottle and regulator this Powerhead system is excellent and very inexpensive by comparisons to other systems.

Definitely a cryt. Likely a green or a red

Like I said Milan, you need to take it with a bit of salt. The targets in the past have been 20-30 ppm. If all is well then 18 ppm is good enough.

Stainlees steel wire, thread or fishing line works well to attach Java Ferns,Anubias,java moss. Witht he java moos it will take sometime for it to attach it's self to wood or rock. But either way wether tied down or self adhered trim it to shape with sissors. Eventually it will grow in nice a thick and the trimming also helps promote growth. If the plant grows off in the wrong direction, then simply cut that piece away.