Cap'n

Berkeley? Wow Albert, I'm impressed! I mean, I knew you were smart, but Berkeley! Damn! Right on man! BTW, you've aged gracefully, J.

A point way too many aquarists lose focus of. A nice sculpted background would go a long way in a well layed out setup like yours.

Except for the fact that it took the ocean close to a hundred of years to grow that clump of natural sponge...

1) Yep, it's that easy. Get some jungle val and watch them spread. Try a few low light varieties, stick with the cheap (or free) stuff and see what works. 2) I have a tank full of various Tanganyikan cichlids who love to swim through the plants. They are smart enough not to destroy their surroundings. 3) I hate fake.

The "blacklight" effect can be achieved in a variety of ways. Actinic or blue spectrum bulbs will cause many colours to stand out that are nearly invisible in daylight or white or yellow spectrum bulbs. It's all a matter of personal taste, some like 10000k, some say that is too white. You could also use moonlights, typically LED's which are used as a night light. These are oftened timed to start slightly before the daylight bulbs go out and stay on most or all of the night. They provide a light at near the same spectrum as natural moonlight. Fish are dramatically influenced by the light schedule they are subjected to in captivity. Good idea to use a timer and only vary the intensity gradually.

As above, the most variable component of a marine system. Go on any salt forum and start reading. You could be there a while. But don't get too worried about making the wrong choice. Whatever you get, something will grow. It's just matching what lighting you have with what corals you want. And what fish you want that won't eat those corals or the other fish you want. If you have the luxury try picking what inhabitants you want and build the system around them.

That's lots of light. Stick to the soft corals until you get bored (could be years) and you won't have any problems. Go to Canreef and look for frags for sale.

Agreed, but they'll be interesting enough on their own. I did have a few danios and guppies with my ocellatus, but that was in a 15gal hex. I think the added height of the tank allowed for completely different territories for the two groups of fish, though.

Very cool fish, IMO. However, I don't have the space for them. Cool that you could get them to breed without trying.

AKA: lace rock. Nice stuff.

At work we get plastic molds of fake rock which are then painted and textured to the exact finish requested by the designer. If you like I could find out who the supplier is and send you a catalogue, etc. I bet with a little practise, some helpful hints and lots of patience you could get the exact look you are trying for with a fraction of the weight. However, I can appreciate the fact that it is real and that it is a labour of love. Gotta say, with that nice of a rock stand, it sure would look good to carry that theme through the tank... I'm thinking freshwater, maybe some frontosas, or some big South Americans.

No, you should get at least one powerhead in there to add some lateral flow. Personally I would add two; large one near the bottom pointing across the tank and a smaller one on the other end placed higher with flow angled out towards the front of the tank.

Yeah, but you can get 2 inchers for $35 at most stores. A Niger or a Picasso would be great in that tank. Rudy, start looking real close at the rocks, you'll be amazed with the changes. Just keep grabbing interesting pieces you see at the LFS, it will add up.

You could set the spray bar to be nice and quiet all the time and simply add a small powerhead to create current and air diffusion at the top of the tank. They add more flow and are easier to adjust than a spray bar.

Considering I have never kept Malawi cichlids I may not be the best source. Looks great, nice and clean.

I like it, but think the fish would appreciate more caves and crevices to swim through. I would pile most of those rocks into a couple groups, maybe have both extending from one side, then use the wood as a contrast piece in the other half of the tank. JMO, Tim

Why would your type of substrate have any difference on your high nitrate level? Rudy, forget about lions and triggers in that small of a tank, start looking at gobies, damsels and crustaceans.

http://www.peteducation.com/category_summa...cls=16&cat=1878 It all depends on what species of lion you want. Should be all the info you are looking for.

I use a 2 x 2 x 3 block of filter foam. Cut an X shape in the the middle of the top. I use an Olfa knife and push the incision about 3/4 of the way down through the block of foam. Pull the opening apart a little bit and slide the intake tube in the hole as far as it will go. Voila! EDIT: didn't realize this had already been answered.

Yeah, motors are easy to come by, about $20 at the LFS. I'm surprised that everyone has so much trouble with sand in their filters and powerheads. I have Lowes playsand in the cichlid tank and aragonite in the reef. Intake sponges on some but not all. Have to occasionally clean them out but have had no major problems.

Cool! What do you have it in with?

Oh, yeah, I'll order a couple more as well.

...or, get your rock from another reefers tank. That way it will already be cured and you may get a few free frags with it, and it might be cheaper.

I have a trio of N. caudopunctatus for sale if you are interested. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/n_caudopunctatus.php

I have a couple ottos in my 15 and they are doing great. They actually aren't around each other that often.