Rainmaker69

Don't forget to do the same with any live rock that you have, at least put it into a tub and provide some sort of circulation. I don't know what to suggest for the sandbed, if you have one. When I moved mine, I took the opportunity to go from a 2" crushed coral bed to a 1/2" bed. That stuff is a royal PITA to keep clean.

I like to use the formula that the tank should be at least 1 1/2 times in depth that the fish is long. My common Pleco is just slightly over 12" and he has been in my 72 gallon for the past year, 48 X 18 footprint. Now I am looking at getting a bigger tank for him so that he can have enough room to turn around. He should have at least a 24" depth, or preferably 30"

For a quick, easy tank divider, you could take the glass out of a suitably sized picture frame.

The tank had been used for a while as it needed a very good cleaning. Of course, not knowing the history of the tank I started with a bleach solution. Checking the place out as I go past twice a day, it looks like it is a roommate house with a bunch of guys living there. Probably one moved out and left the tank behind until the roommates killed the fish and dumped the tank. Poor fishies.

You have to love our throw-away society. On my way home from work tonight and I noticed a 33 gallon Hagen aquarium sitting on a trash bin. I stopped to check it out and it has no cracks, good silicone, a glass top and a Aqua Clear 300 filter. Bonus! The only bad part is that I do not have a car and so ended up carrying the tank for about a mile to get it home. Arms hurt but definately worth the effort.

Actually it was Burno I got it from. Most of their stuff was rather dirty, and alot of it, regardless of base color, seemed to have alot of iron stains on it. I know my wellwater has lots of iron in it, we have a water softener for that, but dont know how to remove it safely from slate? I use CLR on my fixtures, but its rather toxic... Have you checked your water hardness?

He would not eat at all in my tank. I added a few chunks of driftwood and rearranged my rockwork around them to create caves. I also added a piece of 2" PVC pipe to see if he would like it but nothing worked. I tried to feed thawed shrimp. live dew worms, squid, etc. but to no avail. He was about 18" and was in a 55 gallon tank, 36 X 18 footprint. Maybe I needed a bigger tank for him. Thanks for the input and maybe I will try again if I can find another.

You seem to have yours in a marine environment, but from the information on them I found on them when I had mine they were supposed to be fresh / light brackish. Could this be why mine only lasted three weeks and would not eat anything? He was an amazing creature and I would love another but I cannot find any good information on them.

I take it that the metasulphite works for the chloramines as well?

An even cheaper alternative is from your local veterinary supply store. I picked up 100 thin shoulder length gloves for under $10. They do not last forever, but you can get a few uses out of them before you need to replace them.

Check out http://garf.org/ for plans in the DIY section.

25% weekly on freshwater and 50% marine, (with puffer, FO)

I am planning to build a plywood/glass tank as per the instructions on garf.org. I am planning on a 72 X 30 X 24, roughly 230 gallon. So far, I have picked up the 3/8 glass, 135.00, and the food grade paint. The paint is a 2 part epoxy that cost me 75.00 for each gallon. I already had the body filler for filling the imperfections in the plywood and cannot remember what I paid for it, but I am thinking it was around 30 - 40 bucks. 3/4" exterior grade plywood should run about 60.00 per sheet, 2 required. This brings the total to about 440.00 not including the silicone needed, the Xylene (sp) to clean the glass before siliconing, finishing for the outside, a bunch of 2" drywall screws, waterproof glue and about a day and a half labor to put it all together. All together, the cost would probably be equal too or greater than getting a good deal on a manufactured tank, but the fun factor is not there when you just write a cheque. It is kind of a judgement call on your part but there is something to be said about the time spent working with your Dad and being able to stand back at the end and say, Yes, we built it ourselves.

The latest Princess Auto sale flyer has a 300w halogen light on for cheap. Would this type of lighting be suitable for aquarium use with low light plants, Java fern mainly? I am thinking of putting them on my 72 gallon if the spectrum of the light would be OK.

Thanks. I never thought about the coolers being bottled water units and the only distillers I am familiar with use corn. LOL I am now thinking of a smaller, 35 gpd, unit but I am not sure about the required water pressure to operate the unit. The pressure in my house is pretty low and lowers dramatically if one of the other apartments turns on the tap.

Wow. Neat fish.

Going through the Lethbridge Shopper today, and there is a 3 - 4 hundred buck water distiller and a couple of RO water coolers at a hundred each. Question is, which do you think would be better for fresh and salt tanks? I have 4 fresh and 1 marine. Recent water surveys have me concerned about me, too.

Are those connectors the type that you just push the tubing into and it locks into place until you hold the lip down to release it? If so, I can supply you with a few different styles. 1/4" mpt, 1/8" mpt, 90 degree elbows, etc. As for the tubing, how much do you need? I work at an irrigation company and we use these fittings and tubing on our pivots at pressures up to 90 PSI.

JMHO All natural creatures need a day/night cycle, including plants. Fish may not actually sleep, but some species, such as my Green Spotted Puffer. seem to. He will tuck himself up against the heater in the tank, curl up his tail and go to sleep. Others, such as my Danios, seem to be active at all hours and never slow down enough to sleep.

Most silicone for bathrooms and kitchens has an anti fungal agent in them. Read the label carefully. I found Mastercraft window and door silicone at Canadian Tire and it states on the label, "Not for marine use below waterline, Ideal for use in aquariums (allow 2-5 days before filling aquarium). 35 year guarantee.

After you get the mock-up made and tested, don't forget to unplug it to test if it will still self prime. A filter, or any pump for that matter will push water a lot further than they will suck it. Your elbows could be the deciding factor in that respect.

I have crushed coral in my marine tank and I find it a royal pain to clean, and it traps detrius in it causing me nitrate problems. I am removing it and going with arogonite (sp) sand, buffers as well as coral, so I have been lead to believe, and is a lot easier to clean.

Try planetcatfish.com for an ID.

I have a 72 gallon tank to set up and it will hold 2 angelfish, 2 Blue Acaras, 1 Common Pleco, 3 Brochis splendens, and possibly a bunch of varied Tetras. I was thinking of planting Java fern, Spiral val, and some swordplant. My question is, would a "kitty litter" clay first layer, a peat second layer, and just enough sand to cover the surface, abou 1/4", be a good start?

I have been looking for safe silicone for a while now, with no success. Went to crappy tire today and checked out mastercraft silicones and found that they recommend this window and door silicone for aquariums. Kicker is that I want to use it for making my marine sump and it says not for marine use below waterline. Do you think that it would be suitable for this? Buy the buy, 4.49 for 300ml.