jewels

Not familiar with the others, I do have a Fluval 405 in my 75G. The media is large enough to keep the N's @ 0ppm. The abundant plant population IS contributing though. That being said, I did add a hefty powerhead to keep ciculation up throughout the entire tank. Your signiture mentions chiclids, so I do not know how helpful this info is for you. A bare tank full of over-eaters may have ample circulation with inadequate bio-media capacitance - no personal experience here. If you are going to cough up some money - make sure its a big cough. Over size is the way to go. There is a school of thought that would place media capacity over Gallons per Hour. If I had the need, and I could find a Fluval 405 for around $180 I would buy one again.

A soleniod is an electric tap. It is open or it it closed. If it is working than it is completely opening and completely closing. Anything else = failure How is it performing @ the end of the day? - I only ask because of a phenom I noticed w/ mine. The glass diffuser can "resist" putting out until full ( or over ) operating pressure is reached. Perhaps it may take some time to get the 'juices' flowing (consistantly) again. That being said I do not use a soleniod. I think I figured once it would pay for itself in about six months. Anywho, , ,PPS Pro is calling for CO2 24/7,,, I have been following it for a couple months --@ 2X recommended dose of P/day-- with great success. I assume you are manuallly stopping the CO2 @ night ? Good point. I guess I could remove the solenoid and plug my elite mini filte into the light timer. Does anyone here run their co2 24/7 without it being on a timer? did you notice any changes in the fish over night? =====This would only help diffuse the CO2 during the photo-period. Unless you close the tap by hand the CO2 will just blow through and out of the top of the tank.======= On my 75G I run CO2 24/7 lowering my water from 7.8 Ph down to about 7. I have done this for about a year with out any problems. I have had as many as 100 Ameca's in there along with about 30 inches of other fish concurrently. One word of cation. There was this one time when I broke my metal halide bulb, , , By noon ALL the Ameca's were gasping and skimmin' the top. I believe this kept the plants in respire mode and they were consuming all the Oxygen in the water.

http://www.aquascapingworld.com/forum/aqua...urogyne-sp.html Could be hygro?

I guess it depends on the algae's determination to stay attached. Some diatom algae will disapear with the wipe of the finger I have been known to wire a scrubby on the end of my syphon hose. Black hair and black brush (BBA) is a different story BBA you would need a wire brush to dislodge. Black hair ( hate to say it) remove affected leaves or try a dip. 20:1 bleach for a couple minutes. NB: If the conditions for algae are still present it will be back in a heart beat. Are you using dry ferts, trace solutions or other over the counter gro-products?

I suspect everyone is so full of advice they are hesitant to give it to you. At the same time it is hard to give a difinative answer as every aquarium has unknown contributing factors. The best defense is a strong offence. Determine what you can do to put your plants in the ideal situation to grow robustly. Good will always conquer evil. Let your plants deal with the algae. :smokey:

Good call. You never really know. Could be anything. Folks on Arstesian wells do not get cavities; so there is mineral content there ( of course you get calcium deposits on your teeth , , ,but, , ,) interesting read

The quickest/easyest/freeest way to photo shop is to open a photobucket account and fix 'em up there

OldTS ? or NewTS? What happened here?

Me thinks you got somet'in there

Very nice, Thanks. "The sporophyte dries out and releases spores that grow into a new generation of gametophytes, if they germinate" The spores appeared when the moss stacked up toward the waterline. This must be a proactive defense mechanism. Perhaps the moss noticed it 's elevation, anticipated ideal sporophytical conditions and decided it was now or never! I wonder if the spores intend on drying out and travelling airborne ? They look kinda tasty; although it would take a ton of them to make a good sandwich.

I am comfy with plants maturing, producing buds, flowers ( blossoms), fruit, seeds and so on. That I can grasp. Moss on the other hand , , , well , I thought it was just moss; and then more moss. After mine began to sprout I did some reading and am now not much further ahead. One passage said the sprouts were non-viable or "vegetative" Perhaps the farmboy is coming out here again ... but how d'ya produce a vegetable with out a blossom?

Thats a good tip. After all, Bill Nye IS the science guy !

Why did this happen? Are Syno's particularily sensitive? Is it an excess of chloramine in the supply?

Hopefully, failed to read the entire post. Strike one. --Now thats humour

This is the big wad of Rotala Indica I grew in a 75G. It became so matted on top everything growing below nearly perished. That had to go The rootstalk was a mess Ten days later we are back in business ! I think It was the Ameca that cleaned up the roostalk.

wobie claims - "The GE Silicone I is aquarium safe" I have seen (exspensive) aquarium safe silicone @ my LFS.

close cylinder with tap (righty tighty) unscrew regulator ( lefty loosey) To re-install follow directions in reverse

You are right, and I sympathize. I would not wish that upon anyone. Do take heart, I have had cichlids recover and breed again following treatment

As long as the tank is 30" long X 6" X 6" = 5 gallons you should be OK. The bioload is secondary to the elbow room in this case. These dudes are endurance swimmers ( they never stop ). With thier active lifestyle they need room to go! Give them all away - five gallons is to small for one Danio.

The round granite rock in this photo is the only variety of stone besides slate in this aquarium. Red/brush algae ( BBA) will not grow upon this round rock. It readily grows on the slate. I fail to see the correlation. "]Photo Given that I am unaware of the unique elemental differences in the stones, also dismissing light and circulation intensity I am forced to examine the other constituents therein. Granite is much denser than slate. Glass is denser than slate - BBA does not grow on the glass. BBA will grow on the ABS pipework. ABS is soft. I thought I had a reliable theory here until I realized the fired clay substrate is soft , , , it will grow no BBA !! --now I am back to square one. As I became more curious I inspected an aquarium on the other side of the room. The only BBA I could find was on the chips of slate. Why are some surfaces immune to BBA ?

Still need a price to determine the value.

Worth what? Do the MH's come with ballasts? Three Metal halide bulbs @ flourescent bulbs ? You could grow succulents in there!

Here is a simple test to reveal organic content. Take the any substrate and fill a gem jar about 25% full. Fill with water up to 75%. Now we have 25% soil -- 50% water and 25% air space. Shake well and reshake before allowing to settle. Let time pass, and observe. What do you end up with? If it is floating it may be slightly potent for these purposes.

Any article ever written on aquarium selection tells us to buy shallow and long: as opposed to tall and deep. This arrangement gives us the maxim amount of atmospheric exchange. How can we justify the microscopic surface area ratio this system offers ? :well:

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum/ Worth a visit