jewels

I have been known to go a month or more without waterchanges in planted tanks. There are repercussions. There is no solution in dilution. With only water evaping out the system, every thing else is left behind. Over time there are measurable escalations. most obviously - tannins. Water clarity decreases water hardens. 900 ppm is highest I have observed. A 4.5 fold increase from the tap. Ph rises - relates to the effects of Ph on ammonia toxicity

,,, and where is Maddie when you need her ?

From the Hagen website http://ca-en.hagen.com/Water-Gardening/Watercare/Additives---Supplements/PT866 "Laguna Plant Grow is specifically formulated to provide many benefits to pond plants. Plant Grow contains chelated micro-nutrients which promote plant growth and help keep plants strong and vigorous. It is ideal for all pond plants, including floating varieties. Plant Grow does not contain phosphate or nitrate and is safe for fish." This product is essentialy a trace. With our watersupply a weekly WC may provide nearly the same constituents.

I would rather a few spider webs than a house full of bugs :thumbs: That mini humidifier is a right nifty gadget. I like it ! Eight hours a day should be OK for light. Less would still work. As it sits now the plants are CO2 deprived. You could start adding it now and see wild stuff happen'n. Try a open top water bottle with sugar and yeast. You will see more growth in a week than you saw in the last month. Even a wimpy air pump piping in fresh air would yield improvement. Nice scape' Have Fun !!

I have seen all sizes of shrimp crawling all over my clown pl*co, and it seems to not even notice them. Of course perhaps he was overstuffed from previously eating all their other siblings - who knows? I would not trust any fish with a shrimp I wasn't willing to lose. Even decidedly vegetarian Ameca can't resist.

I have`a 'kill-a-watt' metre. It measures a 660 Ice Cap @ 300Watts when paired with 4 x 54 bulbs

If you simply close the cylinder itself - the fine tuning stays tuned

This will take care of itself. After the initial population exsplosion; they (assasins) will level off/dwindle.

If the outlet is underwater - there will be no syphon.

I agree private is your best bet. 50¢ a stem? Oh my, I hope the price has gone down. That is a full sized Glad garbage bag. Sometimes I can give it away - usually it gets composted.

http://sunsite.ualbe...3&query=VIRILIS You most likely have found Orconectes virilis

I needed to log back on to correct this. Not to go back and edit out what I had posted; but rather self audit my behavior. My flagrant vocabulary was not productive, nor kind, or helpfull. FishTBoy, I regret being condescending. I do have piles of measurements revealing contributing factors to light delivery failure. I will share them in a new thread. Dragon, hopefully you'll have all access to the info you need right here in this thread. I apologise for taking it off track. Glass tops are nice because it gives you flexibilty. Like you said the light source is easy. With a secure glass top you have a multitude of lighting choices., , , and none of your investments end up getting "bumped" in to the tank.

Cannot speak for them; although I can share this ,,, Here is a unencumbered measurement I made . It is showing 10.5 PAR With the 4mm tempered glass in place atop the mugs, in order to reduce the value whatsoever I had to shift the light souce about 25 degrees off of perpendicular. Still measured 10 PAR.

Sorry, I am not one who seeks confrontation, but, this statement is blatantly untrue.

If you are brave a glass cutting tool is less than five bucks. Scrap glass is - well, scrap priced. Less than five bucks. There are glass hinges available. You could go with two full width panes. You could go full width and stop 2-3 inches from the back. That will give space for gear and feeding. Getting a good fit is inconsequential. You could cut to fit/nestle into the rim if you chose. I just cut 1/2 inch over full width and plop it on. You may need to do this if you are de-rimming the tank. There are two way to re-silicone. One is superficial; you are just cleaning up the appearance. This involves leaving the joints intact. If you are resealing the joints you must first dismantle the entire tank into its seperate panes. On a smaller ( read thinner glass ) tank you stand a great chance of breaking a pane during dismantling. Once you have the five panes seperated then you are left with the ingredients to build your own tank. This reassembly may require a bottom pan. If the tank is not leaking, I don't dismantle it. Don't get me wrong - if your into it I say go for it! As for mounting the light - I do not bother. You have a nice new glass top. Sit the light on there.

mmmm,,, This is getting serious

I think all but the true aquatics would work. I sure there are exceptions. True aquatics meaning: naja, vals, sag and so forth. Rotala does well for me as does marsilea. two cents = 2 tips A plant can will deplete the available CO2 around the stomata very quickly. This is why plants will stall or stop growing under saran wrap. Idealy you need to circulate the humid air. Talk to your plants! A deep breathe exhaled into a one gallon container will raise up the CO2 concentaration about 2000ppm ( with these lungs anyhow ) Have fun & share photo's !

Is it contaminated from a cleaning ? - I am down to random guesses.

About what; and since when? :eh:

,,,odd DIY or store bought solution? Thanks for the update.

Bump Curious for a follow up here. What did you find?

Whole heartedly agree. I have the phosphate version love it! Now if they would only deliver on the promised NO3

No heater required !!

Get some floating cover up top. After the birth the wee monster fry head straight up. I often find them atop lilypads.