Oneiroid

This is the direction I've gone... Rex Grigg DIY-reactor Thanks for the link. I've been looking at the Rex Grigg design, as well as this one: http://www.aquaticscape.com/articles/co2reactor.htm.

I like my spray bar where it is (good flow in the tank), but now I am a bit concerned about possible CO2 buildup in the canister. I think I am leaning towards an external inline reactor. Maybe even DIY... tip and suggestions welcome!

I am hooking up a new pressurized CO2 setup to my planted 90g and am considering my options for diffusion. It would seem that directly injecting the CO2 output into the intake of a powerhead is a popular choice, but I’d rather not add any more bulky hardware to the tank. The more reasonable approach I think, for me, would be to use an external reactor. However, I am wondering if I can combine these two concepts and feed the CO2 into the intake of my canister filter (an Eheim 2217), and let my canister do double duty as the reactor as well. Would this disrupt the filter or its biological media in any way? Any other problems with this approach?

Jerry, it's an oselot/leopard/flame sword... want one? -05-

That is a nice balance of plants with your hardscape, and will look even better once growin in a bit more. I'm sure your SA cichlids just love it!

Technically yes, but auction registration should be done a week in advance of the auction. I would speak with Michael Pham, our auction coordinator, at the meeting if you can still enter your lots (bring your list with you).

You got it. Anyone can purchase items by paying cash at the time they win. If you'd like to sell in the future, membership forms will be available at the comptroller's desk.

Just a quick observation. It look likes the tank will be hit with some amount of direct sunlight when your windows are uncovered - this could make algae a more serious and ongoing problem in your tank. Looking forward to your progress.

Thanks for sharing - that looks really nice! I love seeing progression pictures too.

Please be as accurate as possible, but we totally understand if some modifications are made to your lots on auction day. Your example above works fine for groups, but if you have, say, a 'trio' or 'pair' of fish, that would be helpful to add as well. It is most important, however, that the items listed in the hard-copy that you bring the day of the auction accurately reflects your lots. Of course, your lots will sell best when you have as much info on the bag as possible for the auctioneers to read off. And if you can add any additional detail to your lot registration, that would really help us solve any accounting anomalies that may occur during the auction itself. Good question, thanks!

The white pigment (or non-pigment, rather) in both the femal and male snowball bodies reflect light like I've never seen in any dwarf shrimp (with the possbile exception of the yellows) that give the appearance of a milky glow. I don't think that the eggs emit more or less of a glow, but because they are so white they definitely stick out in a tank. For instance, you could readily spot berried females from across a room if you've got line-of-sight of them in the tank. The fry are just as bright and are easily spotted on dark substrate or backgrounds. One of my favourite shrimp types for sure.

Auction lots must be registered previous to the auction date. See ACE auction info. You are welcome to contact Michael Pham, our auction coordinator, to see if you can work something out in advance. His email address is also at the above link. Auction rules are are there too for sales information.

The auction registration form is for ACE and CAS members to register up to 20 lots that they will be bringing to the auction to sell. This registration form must be submitted prior to the auction (see website for details), and a printed copy must be brought to the auction to verify that your items are on the tables.

ACE members: Registration is automatic if you are an ACE member. ACE members can pay cash upon winning each of their bids or run a tab under their valid ACE membership number. ACE members who choose to run a tab may not cash out until the auction is over (no exceptions) and all CAS members running a tab have cashed out. CAS members: To run a tab as a CAS member, see a member of the ACE executive to have an auction number assigned to you. CAS members can alternatively pay cash upon winning each of their bids. CAS members who choose to run a tab may not cash out until the auction is over (no exceptions), but will be allowed to cash out before the locals. Non-members: If you are not a member, you are not registered. Non-members are free to participiate, but must pay cash upon winning each of their bids. Non-members can pick up a membership form at the comptrollers desk.

http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/80116596 Max load = 100kg

Just do be clear, pitbull plecos and bulldog plecos are completely different. Pitbull: http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/speci...?species_id=236 Bulldog: http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/speci...?species_id=407

Both otos and pitbulls are very social. If you do try one of these types, I'd say get no less than a group of 4 otos or 3 pitbulls. For a 29g, I'd actually start with 5-6 otos. The otos are extremely passive and may play with your schooling rasboras once in a while. They otherwise like to attach themselves to plants and graze. They max out at about 1.5". Pitbull plecos are a bit more forward. They don't really pay attention to other fish and do their own thing. They will also hang out in your plants, but they also like to be down on the substrate cleaning your gravel (becuase of this, they sometimes dispace small amounts of gravel). They max out at about 2.5".

I'd say that otos are no more sensitive and twitchy than the pigmy cories. As long as your water is treated with a conditioner like Prime, you don't have to worry about the 'maturity' of your water. I suspect that a handful of otos would be pretty comfy in a talk with dwarf rasboras and cories... even more comfy if the tank was planted up. Pitbull plecos may not be the most attractive to most, but I've really come to like the little guys.

Otocinclus is always a good bet. Pitbull plecos stay about 2.5". Both will munch on algae too and won't damage your plants.

I am running a 65W CF over a 20g long with DIY CO2, and my flame and xmas mosses are growing very well (as are all the other mosses in there). Some of the mosses are actually growing TOO well in there... if I were to up the light I'd be trimming every other day. However, your star moss (Tortula ruralis) won't last too long in any fully aquatic environment.

I quite like it and have had no problems. Others I know who've used it also quite like it. Make sure you rinse it out like you would laterite - the Schultz bags say "won't cloud water" but what that actually means is that once the substrate is settled, it won't break down further and cause water issues. It is also more porous than laterite and you'll get a strange rice krispies audible effect when you initially wet it. In addition to being dirt cheap (pardon the pun), another plus is that it is actually very attractive... I wouldn't cover it other substrate myself. Visually, I prefer it to laterite.

Pretty much all moss types will grow with some degree of lighting. More light = moss grows faster. Less light = moss grows slower. I've also experienced this with najas grass.

I had a 'potato incident' a while ago that generated a bunch of these guys. Double check the back of your pantry and food cabinets! Other than that, I normally have a few that like to cruise along on any plant matter that is floating or touching the surface of the tank water. Though, nothing excessive like you've described. Perhaps you have some decaying plant matter in your tank that is attracting them?

Yup, that's a damselfly larvae alright. They are carnivorous, so if you are noticing a crash in your shrimp fry, that's why. The mother damselfly will often insert her eggs into the stems of aquatic plants, so if you got new plants in the last month or so and thought you washed them off... the eggs probably survived. It's a risk with pretty much any plant distributor who is located in a climate warm enough to grow/keep stock in an outdoor environment. Keep your eyes peeled for more of these buggers, and pull them out when you see them. There is no risk of these guys reproducing in your tank.

For tanks with fry or planted tank with shrimp and such, I wrap a piece of nylon stocking around the end for a finer mesh. Works great.