jcgd

I would go ahead. I have spawns, fry and juvies in lots of co2 tanks. Just don't gas them of course. Algae is usually from too much light and limiting co2 or ferts. Low tech works well for Anubis, java fern, easy stems, Etc., but they can last with low levels of co2. Once you have more light you need the co2 so you don't limit the plant growth. If light isn't limiting plant growth you open the door for algae. Ferts are easy to have non limiting and they are cheap if your buying bulk salts. If you have too much light the amount of co2 needed to be non limiting can be at a point that gasses the fish. When adding co2 it's easiest to leave the lighting (plants can better utilize the existing light with co2), make sure ferts are non limiting and just add the gas. It keeps you out of trouble because if all was good before, it'll just be better with co2 IF the ferts are good. EI dosing is the easiest way to dose as its very simple and non limiting. Lighting is hard to resist, but generally the more light, the more issues that come up if things aren't set properly. Keep the light low and co2 high. And good flow.

You need a splitter and run a needle valve on each line so you can control each tank separately. Probably run you $50-100 or so all said and done/ shipped. There are a few sellers on plantedtank.net or greenleafaquariums.com. I wouldn't buy any co2 parts anywhere else. The quality just isn't there. Your co2 requirements I'll jump a great deal when you switch lights. Make sure you have ferts under control or you'll have algae in no time.

I can certainly vouch for that. I'll be spreading it around as soon as I grow it out.

What about a vacuum attachment?

I have a builder I like to use. Pm me if you want a contact. He built my 165 Eurobraced, and a 120p in the works. Kind dreading the rimless though... The splashing is terrible.

A 100 gallon will likely be more like 4-5 bubbles per second, even though bubble sizes vary. I'd start at 3 per second easy. Obviously, could the bubbles over 20 seconds or so to find the bubbles per second. Having 1 bubble per 5 seconds with a bubble wall will be like having nothing. Actually, it'd be more like what you want to do with a non co2 tank. Run the bubble wand at night with a timer if you want to use it. Jump to at least 2 bubbles/ second and then just a sleight bit each day. You'll likely be at a point where you can't count the bubbles when you have enough co2.

SW tanks are generally lightly stocked. The cost is too great to push limits. The cannister relies on a syphon to draw the water into it, and then it pumps it back up. Use a standard pump on the sump. They push much more water anyway. Most SW tanks rely on live rock for biological filtration. A filter sock rinsed every few days on the drain is good for mechanical as sponges, etc., tend to become nitrate factories once again. A skimmer is highly recommended and is what generally takes up most of the sump. I never run mechanical filtration in any tanks, unless it's the couple days following a major disruption and I want to trap debris that aren't normally floating around. Water movement will keep the water clear.

Also, as far as agitation goes, you want as much rippling as is reasonable. It's the white water, or breaking of the water tension that is the enemy. I get this in my weir, but I do not mind. If you add co2 injected tank water to a jar, test the ph and then shake it up, it actually takes a bit of effort to gas off all the co2. Think what it take to flatten a pop. One or two shakes doesn't do it. You need to shake it vigorously for a few minute go get it nearly flat. Or leave it out for a day or two open. A air bubbler is the most useless and worst thing you can put in a planted tank DURING THE DAY. It add very little oxygen and gets rid of lots of co2. At night you can use it to gas off co2 ONLY. Surface area gets you the oxygen, as oxygen is very difficult to diffuse into water.

Haha, thanks! Now it's like a cheer... Say yes to the sump! I love everything about it. Two heaters... hidden. Dosers... hidden. Ph, temp probes... hidden. Wanna clean the media... one minute... done. Wanna add some charcole... and done. Want more surface area? Done. Want more volume? Done. And the biggest one people miss is that they think they can spill more water with a sump. In reality, a sump can empty into the main tank if the drains all clog, and then you get the volume of the sump on the floor, minus whatever extra volume the display can hold. The other way to spill isn't really and issue unless you over fill the sump and the pump shuts down. The water can back flow overflowing the sump. But a well designed system will hold all the back flow. A leaking cannister will drain the tank all the way to the intake tube. Which we usually place near the bottom of the tank. The only downside to a sump is making sure it's co2 proof. And that can be solved with a design choice.

Yes, I have a sump. You need to seal the wet dry so instead I run an open sump with a filter dock. The opening of the drain is submerged so there's no agitation whatsoever. My journal has a video showing my sump. It's not cleaned up, but you get the idea. Every thread that starts with "why shouldn't you have a sump on a planted tank" reaffirms the myth for everyone who doesnt bother to read the thread. No offense meant, just saying its a damn hard myth to kill.

I knew you were gonna comment on that. No, I don't think women's rights are less important. Not at all. I almost typed the opposite sentence but figured you'd know what I mean. They are different issues that need to be addressed. Ironically, because there shouldn't be an issue at all. Two issues created by those fascinating minds, that have been conditioned and controlled. You think it's a non issue. I disagree. It's not the laws of nature at work... we are placing that animals there, they aren't naturally moving there. Snake heads are so bad that they are almost like humans in how they take over. They annihilate ecosystems.

I get what you're saying, but I'm saying they are two different issues with different dangers barriers. You simply are not going to stop oil production. Even if we should, it's not gonna happen. As far as a single thing running the world, oil is it. I still thing we should fight it, and the environmental dangers, but oil use ins't going to stop regardless. Snakeheads will plague rivers and other bodyways. You end up having to kill everything in order to kill the snakeheads, so that any else has a chance to reclaim. Just read the destruction they've cause elsewhere. Sure, it's a different, and smaller issue, but we can actually do something about it. We can't ignore issues just because there are other one that are deemed bigger. We aren't going to ignore women's rights just because there is still racism. You need to fight both battles.

Drop checker, 4dkh solution and some ph indicator. You need the 4dkh because it turns green around a co2 concentration of 30ppm +/- 10ppm (everyone's idea of green varies, and lighting) so you can get a good feel for the concentration. You can always start low and slowly increase the count a touch everyday as you watch the fish. I usually increase once my co2 has been steady with lights on for a good 4-5 hours. Then watch the next day to see if it's too much or not. The kh/ph chart isn't very accurate because if anything in the tank buffers your water it skews the results. A combo of a drop checker and feel is the best way. You don't exactly need a high ppm, (unless the lighting is too strong - usually the case) but you need consistent levels. You don't want the co2 level fluctuating. The bubble rate won't tell you much because the sizes of the bubble can and will vary from setup to setup. Diffusion methods also vary greatly in their efficiency.

No fish yet

It's only one pond until it isn't. Not even close to similar issues.

Perhaps they should just straight up ban snake heads. Same goes for hygro polysperma, etc. If it wreaks havok then it's not worth it just so a handful of people can have it. Same goes for endangered species.

Concept aquatics is right by big als and have rock bottom prices. $5 bucks or so. Hehe, if it's in Calgary, I generally know where to find it.

Use the mollies to fatten up the others for spawning. Bam!

Cough, cough, clears throat.... Well come on, you have tons of variety, but only a few stems of each to sell each week. Good if you just want something to grow out, but if you are starting a new tank it's hardly enough. Who else has what you have in their collection?

Aqua flora in BC. Stocked my whole 165 with them and a smaller order from aquarium central. Cost me $340 for the 165 pretty dense. You get more than you expect from aqua flora and there no algae, etc. You could pack full a 40 breeder for well under $200. The thing about plants like rotala rundifolia and watersprite is they are truly weeds and sell for the price of weeds. Something like potostemon stellata will actually fetch a buck a stem as most people can't grow it. There are hundreds of varieties worth money. You can get very few (especially healthy) of them locally.

Nevermind

Wow man. I feel so bad for you. Hopefully this will be the reason the little dude never messes with a tank again. I wish is was a less expensive tank...

Jay, it's a system just for you.

Toothbrush and a twirl, remove as much as you can manually.