Sprucegruve

Google spencer jack,he's a very knowledgable guy His website is http://cichlaholic.com/ How big of tanks do you have to keep these guys?

Kensfish.com has them pretty cheep,just need to buy minimum 25

Welcome to the forum. How big is your pond?what do you keep in it? Lots of people on here can give you Some cool tricks on ponds

LOL the only way I can see them is with a pair reading glasses.I know i picked this up from fish purchased at a local lfs that i didn't quarentine properly lesson learned. But since this I have noticed more tanks also have this worms I think most people don't notice. FLY Yep,the very first time I got these worms I diddent know what the problem was,had to ask around,i think i even started a post just like this one.now that I have delt with it a couple time I can spot them "50ft" away lol Once you get them 1-2 times and know the symptoms you seem to get paranoid about it,I rarely even take free fish unless it's from a reliable hobbyists

I have never gotten worms from you or Harold,so one of the chems you guys user is working. I always end up getting the worms while doing someone a favor and holding onto a fish for a week or so

I got it twice from not properly quarantining a fish I was picking up and holding for a friend. And once I got it from not properly cleaning a live plant that was given to me. I don't know how anyone else gets this disease,maybe bad diet or water conditions or a combo of both A lot of people's problem is,they only do one dose and expect the worms to be gone. Then the worms show up again in a month,I always dose twice with LEV sometimes even a third time to be sure

Well said AJanzen. I will add,if you do a water change,place a diner plate or bowl in the tank so you pour your fresh water onto/into that,it helps prevent stirring up the substrate

I want to say a unhealthy electric blue jack Dempsey,might be normal jd but I can't tell much from the one photo

Ok so #4 would be a bad idea. Thanks for the help I'll go for the 40 outlet pump and work with it

Ok let's make my questions more clear. #1 would running 28 out of 30 outlets be too stressful on my pump makeing it not last as long? #2 is 1.4 psi enough power to run a 50 gallon sponge filter efficiently? #3 Would 2.4 psi be overkill on a 50 gallon sponge? #4 if 2.4psi is not too much power,could I buy the 40 outlet fixture and only use it for 30 sponge filters,and plug the extra 10 holes? #5 ^ if I did #4 would that raise my overall psi from 2.4 psi to 3.0 psi technically if I'm running less outlets than recommended or would that blow my pump? Thanks in advance to whoever has enough energy to type out some answers

Sorry mods couldn't think of what section this would be best in. I'm looking to buy a linear air pump from a couple different sources,fish sites/stores,hydroponics stores.or used But I'm confused as to how much power I will need my air pump to be.This air pump will be running 28X50 gallon sponge filters. I'm looking online and I found one that is rated for 30 outlets at 1.4 psi each.this seems a little low power but what do I know. Or one that is rated for 40 outlets at 2.4 psi each,is this good or too much power? This air pump will be powering my 11 ft three teir shelf.(sixX10gal,fiveX15gal,20tall,20long,30,35) I will be getting a second air pump to run most of the other tanks,I just don't want to risk putting my whole fish room on one pump,if it breaks then every tank has problems.

I agree with this statement,Glad someone said it. This would be a perfect tank for breeding a pair,but this is not a good tank to try to get a pair in. Feeding discus can be messy and easy to over feed so you will need to do large water changes on this tank(all discus appreciate w/c) Also discus appreciate being in groups of 6 or more,unless you have a breeding pair. They look like very peaceful fish,but when in spawning they will defend their territory,not to mention when first introduced into your tank they will initially "peck" at each other to establish who is the dominant one of the group. There is not much room to hide/swim/claim territory in a 30 gallon hex.If your going for a school of discus I would recommend a 4ft long tank minimum just so they have room to swim and school

I can't say it works as well as those calcium stones,but yes it will help I usually have a bunch of empty shells in my snail and shrimp tanks

Interesting,I never thought if he was using r/o If it does come down to calcium though,i occasionally give my shrimp a small piece of snail jello and they seem to do well.

Some shrimp(even if healthy) just might not make a molt.was it full grown or a baby shrimp? A healthy shrimp should molt minimum once a month as its growing Otherwise,it may need more calcium or micro nutrience of somekind. I find those calcium rocks that Canadian aquatics works well,the shrimp just pick at the rock as they want.

I just buy a trace mix(all your micro and macro nutrience)all seasons I believe is $8.75-$9 for a large 500 ml container(250 grams)this will last a long time. Plus KH2PO4 mono- potassium-phosphate I believe $7-$9 I also buy kn03,they cant sell you powder form of this,so they make you a 1liter bottle(or bigger if you want) I think $8-$10 This is your complete mix,everything a plant will ever need,as long as you add carbon then your set(excel,metricide,or C02) I believe a person in Edmonton ordered a couple extra gallon bottles of metricide,if you want to purchase it and don't want to wait. then look in the group order section in the past two months it should be easy to find

Well,from the sounds of it,this laguna product is cheaper than seachem products and higher concentration,but I still need to look at the numbers on the bottle or website. As it stands you can get away with just dosing this and a carbon source(excel,meteicide,or C02) Good find. But in the long run it would still be a little cheaper to get dry ferts

It sounds a little diluted,but if it contains everything a plant needs then it might not be too bad. Because im thinking,the average dose of excel for a 90 gallon tanks is 45mls,Not to mention like 20 Ml's of other seachem products. if you solution only needs 50 mls and it has everything then it's not too bad(your solution does 264 gallons per 50ml) But if you switched to metricide14 then you would only need 22.5ml's of solution instead of 45 ml's of excel for a 90 gal And with dry ferts you would need a lot less and they are cheaper. And they are easy to dose once you find the amount you need,I like this calculator http://www.thenutrientcompany.com/aquarium/calculators/ Edit- I guess basically what I'm asking is,does the laguna frets contain carbon or do you still need to dose excel or metricide?

You know I'm not 100% done my fish room,feel free to build whatever you want for my basement lol.jk Good job,its lookin great sofar.

Have to been over feeding lately? Need more info to be sure,but if none of the fish are hurt or dying then it is just planeria,not much too worry about. If you need I have some of those 3 day planeria kits that Patrick and Charles sell. If your fish are stressed or dying then it is something serious,but with not much info I couldn't tell you what it was. Maybe someone else can help if you post a picture or something Edit-sp

I used to go threw the trouble of trying sexing them,now I just wait until I see two doin the deed and seperate them if I want to breed them. Check out http://www.applesnail.net/ Here is "mystery snail link"- http://www.applesnail.net/content/species/pomacea_bridgesi.htm There are a couple snail websites out there but this is the most accurate

50ml per 1000l is quite a bit of solution to add,is this a complete mix? Or would you still need a trace mix? It might be cheapest for you to use dry ferts. All seasons in Edmonton sells them cheep,and lee valley I believe. Also if your looking for excel aquarium illusions,aquarium central,and big ALS sell it. People started using metricide instead of excel,it is twice the strength and cheaper. You can buy the metricide from vereburn in Calgary http://www.vereburn.com/ Just make sure you look at metricide14, (the other one metricide28 is not safe for aquarium use)

Thanks In my experience,yes the endlers were too aggressive too keep my snails with them,but i have never had a problem keeping snails and shrimp together.I have seen people have livebearers with snails but it's kind of hit or miss,sometimes it just wont work together Good thing fisher gave you the recipe,they really like that stuff. In the future I'm going to use agar instead of that Knox unflavored jello,the veggie agar is easier for them to digest than the Knox. I found any food is a good additive for the snails jello,I just use a coffe grinder and grind up some pellets,flakes and some freeze dried foods. I try to mix in different foods and veggies every batch i make so they get different vitamins and such

Welcome to AA

I had some golden mystery snails with my endlers in a 30 gallon,and the endler slowly killed/ate them bit by bit. I found my live bearers were too agressive to keep snails with them(other than rrh and mts)