arixonbarnes

Yes Christian that's the one I like.

Princess Auto has some good 3 prong (grounded) timers with the pins permanently built in (so they don't get lost). They were on sale a while ago but I can't remember what I paid at the time but I think it was about $8 each. Regular price will be higher. I like these ones (general electric) better than any of the other 4 types of timers I have.

Check out the city regulations first. I think the limit is 18 inches deep after which you need a fence (as in for a swimming pool). Henry at D.A.D.'s can give you all the info.

There was a problem with the globe screw in flourescent light bulbs at one time as they could overheat and cause fires (which one A.C.E. member experienced). These were recalled and I think the problem was fixed. However their 4 foot flourescent fixtures appear to have problems as I had one fail me after less than six mionths and the replacement I bought a week ago failed in less than 6 hours of being turned on. I picked mine up at Walmart's and I don't know who else distributes them. just be aware of possible problems.

If you vapour barrier the walls and ceiling you won't need to paint the walls with epoxy to waterproof it. My room temperature jumped from 68 degrees to 74 plus (higher on the top rows) and that's with the door open. The top shelves are pushing 80 degrees due to the heat from the flourescent lights on the lower shelves and the lights above (due to the sealed ceiling). So if you close the door and add a dehumidifier (which also creates heat) you won't need a lot of heaters. I am no longer using heaters in any of my tanks. This also cuts down on your power usage. You will only need insulation on the outside walls and to insure no condensation I would recommend rigid foam board insulation.

Seajays had a problem using his python because he had an aerator on his tap which cuts down on the pressure and water flow. Do you have an aerator on your tap? If so try removing it. Otherwise a water pump ie a submersible from $50 and up will pump the water out for you (or you can vacuum out into a pail and use the pump to pump into the sink, tub, toilet etc).

Make sure you waterproof the base of your framing so that the water will not run out of the room. Mine wanted to run through the gun closet (when I had a spill) before it went into the main basement drain untill I siliconed all the 2x4s to the concrete. You will also need a vapor barrier although you shouldn't need insulation on your inside walls or the ceiling if you are building it in the basement.

Algae Farmer can help you out on the raising of bristlenose cats as he has raised them by the thousands. Paul do you have any hints for Discus Diehard ?

Thanks Christian. I was starting to think I wouldn't ever find out (except the hard way).

I have 20 occuppied (127 gal, 23 gal, 25 gal, 30 gal, 33 gal, 2-15 gal, 4-20 gal, 16 gal, 3- 26 gal plexis and 5 -10 gal) and three empty (with water no fish a 26 gal plexi, 5 gal & a 3 gal), five I just put into dry dock (13gal ,2- 5.5 gal and 2 2.5 gal) and 4 (20gal, 25 gal, 55 gal and 94 gal) that I haven't gotten set up yet plus six plexiglass tanks stored outside. Sorry about that - I was using the old math! I think the numbers add up now.

If this is for your Endlers you don't need a box. They are small and don't usually bother the fry (especially if they are well fed). I just use a lot of plants in my livebearer tanks.

I have two male Kribinsis (pelvichromis pulcher) in a long tank 11 feet long by 18" high by 12 inches wide (gross 127 gallons net 100 gallons). I currently have a pile of ameca splendids in there as well but they were very hard on the angels (shredded their fins) so I moved the twelve angels to a long (40 inch) 20 gal as I needed the Amecas for algae control. I intend to pull the amecas and dump them in the long 20 gallon tank and move the angels back. Any idea of how badly the angels will be harrassed by the kribs? Incidently the kribs were added after I moved the angels out.

I finally got around to experimenting to eliminate the reflection that we see when we look into a tank. I cut to size and siliconed natural 1/8" cork onto the back, ends and bottom of a new standard 10 gallon tank. The reflection remains so it didn't do squat to solve that problem. On the plus side the Java moss is starting to stick to the cork and fish should not try to swim through the back, ends or bottom. So far the Endler male (my guinea pig) is surviving and the tank has been up since Jan 05, 2006. In retrospect it would be far cheaper to just tape something (ie $1 table clothes cut into strips) to the outside back, ends and bottom.

Val - see my reply on velvety plants - maybe a siesta will solve your problem too!(for the plants that is!)

One of my aquarium plant books advised that a lights out period (a siesta) during the day of an hour or so will shut the algae down as they are the lowest form of plant and take time to get their photosynthesis up to speed as opposed to higher forms of plants which take very little time to get their photosynthesis going. I finally did this on my long tank (I put in two siestas) and the algae is now retreating and the amecas are getting ahead of the algae now. That's since last Saturday so it works quickly but you also have to block out other sources of light.

I put mine in a hunk of nylon stocking, throw in some marbles for weight, tie both ends and deep six it into the tank - otherwise you can put it in your filter (peat pellets work well too).

Furniture dollies ($30 @ Canadian Tire) and ratchet straps work wonders - I moved a 94 gallon by myself and I'm not very strong these days (ask J-Roc & Blkwolf). It's a 3/8" glass 4 foot by 2 foot high by 18 3/4" wide unit and I moved from my station wagon on the dolly and then down the basement stairs alone. You probably only need one helper with your bigger tank and two would be more than enough unless you are going to muscle it (which is where you would need Blkwolf).

I keep angels mostly because they went so cheap at one of the ACE auctions and I got stuck with the high bid ($3 for 5 angels etc) and took home 19 angels of which I still have seven (gave some away)..

Does anyone you know have any large 55 gallon (USA gals) drums with the tops cut out - you could borrow those. Those would do for a day or so especially with airstones running. The power filters can run on a pail with some tank water until you are ready to put the tanks back together.

Wouldn't the airborne pollutants be in our tanks as well? Also I noticed that if the dehumidifer runs fairly often and gets emptied regularly the water is okay but if it is left in the bin or a container by itself it goes slimey (probably due to the low ph). I have never noticed any oil on mine but I empty it every 3rd day in the winter and ever day in the summer.

Does the other box contain the same type of fish or is it something different?

If you buy at PJ's look for someone with a coupon book so you can get 25% off. They were in the 2004 and 2005 coupon book. Sorry my oops - PJ's isn't in Red Deer but maybe the other LFS' in RD have coupons in the local coupon book.

I do a 25% water change twice a week on all my tanks regardless of the number of fish in them (ie one or five of forty). Takes 550 liters when all the tanks are up but I think it helps keep the water fresh.

Most of the old tanks, framed or all glass, did not have any or hardly any clearance on the bottom glass. A small piece of aquarium gravel, if caught under the tank during placement of the tank, could cause enough pressure to crack the bottom glass. A piece of foam under the tank would allow the gravel to sink into the foam without putting any pressure on the glass. The new tanks all seem to be be built up of the ground. To ensure that a tank is even, even if the stand warps, I place a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut to size, under each of my glass tanks. That way the tank will always be level.

A file will work too. Power tools might crack your glass if you slip.