Boom Posted October 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 (edited) Wow, very thorough. Looks like it will be a nice set up. I agree with you about the sump, it all depends on the power of the pump, not the size of the sump. And if you think about it, most canisters only hold about 2-5 gallons of water. Just a word of advice, make sure to not build the overflow too high, otherwise the water level will be too high. I service an aquarium where the idiots built the overflow only about 1/2" from the top, the water literally almost spills over the sides of the tank. At least 1" or more would be fine I would imagine. I cannot tell from your picture of the wood materials, but what sizes of boards are you using? Good advice on the overflow height firestorm. I planned on about an inch lower than the bottom of the cross brace anyway. Hopefully that works. The boards are 2x4's. Just the cheap ones from Home Depot. They have the slightly more expensive "premium" 2x4's but I find no difference generally. In fact it took me less time to find good boards in the cheap pile, then it did last time I went thru the "premium" pile. Edited October 17, 2008 by Boom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boom Posted October 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 (edited) Man, I want a jointer. I can spend a couple of hours digging through the wood to find the straightest ones and also make sure they are as light as possible to ensure they are dry and wont warp once they start to dry. It is so annoying when you think you have a straight board and then after a couple of days in the garage they are warped...One question; when you run them through the jointer, do you do it equal with all boards no matter how much is actually needed to make sure they all have the same thickness once you are done? Patrick, I only buy boards from places like Home Depot or Windsor, where they store their wood inside. Places like Totem the wood is stored outside so it's always wet. Usually the boards that have been inside for a while are pretty dry. Be careful about picking the lightest boards, sometimes they're light because they are rotting inside. The part of the tree that the wood is from can also play a role in how heavy the board is. So heavier boards aren't ALWAYS heavier because they're wet. And lighter boards aren't ALWAYS lighter because they're dry. With experience you can tell by feel. A moisture meter is the only real way to tell if a board will warp on you or not. But I just go by feel. But yes, boards can often still move after you get them home if the temperature and humidty at your place is different than where you shopped. You only run the board thru the jointer enough to make that individual board flat on one face, and straight and square to the flat face on an adjoining edge. If the board is REALLY warped, even a jointer won't help because you just loose too much material to make it worth while. A jointer does you little good without a planer too. Next I'll be running the boards thru the thickness planer. That will make the opposite face flat and parallel to the face I flattened on the jointer, and the opposite edge the same. The planer (if used correctly) also makes all the boards the same thickness and width. Boom :boom: Edited October 17, 2008 by Boom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drydock Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 (edited) Boom, Looks good man. I just finished almost the same project. My tank was already drilled and had the plumbing installed, but I had to build a stand and redo a lot of the plumbing underneath. I did learn a few things along the way that might be helpful... I found it was a pain to learn how to use it, but it is worth it. I have my heaters, and CO2 all in the sump so I have a nice clean display. I also add all my dry ferts in the sump and they are dissolved before they make it into the display tank. Before you install those ball valves, get some silicone lubricant in there and get them moving really good. I have those valves on my sump and they seize up real nice... You can get a really small tube from a very large box LFS on 99th st. that does not happen to be a sponsor here, but for the same price, I ordered some from a place in the states and got like 10 times a much. Maybe call Kelly at the Reef Shoppe and see if he has any. I'm not sure where else in the city you can find it. I also learned (the hard way) that you will need to fool around with adjusting your flow to and from the sump so that you get an equilibrium. The easiest way I found to do that is to plumb in a T with a line that goes back into your sump. Stick a valve on there as well and you can turn down the flow going into your tank by diverting some back into the sump. You will also avoid putting unnecessary head pressure on your pump when you are trying to balance it with your drain flow going into the sump. (I also run a 100 micron filter sock on here for some extra mechanical filtration.) Originally, I had the filter sock on my drain, right as it went into the sump but it was clogging up every single day and then playing havoc with the flow to and from the tank. What are you going to put in the tank? I have my 210 set up as a planted tank with a lot of smaller fish - congos, rainbows, rams, gouramis... I found that I was getting too much flow and too much velocity out of my returns. 1900 GPH is definitely lots, but it may be too much... maybe not. (1900 GPH on a 180 is 10x per hour of the total volume. I thought 3-5 was how they 'rated' filters) I turned my velocity and GPH down by using the loop back into the sump I described above. Also, as your media collects detrius, it will slow down the flow. It might be a good idea to make sure that there is a path that water can flow through the sump without going through the media if it starts to get to soiled and slows down. Are you going to set up auto top off? I didn't and I regret it now... Think about it. Roger Edited October 17, 2008 by Drydock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lana Bollers Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 I wish we had a jointer, dang would make for nicer fences when doing the horse padocks as well. I have to say tacking up some of them worped boards makes for some fancy foot work and some squishing with the body to get that board close to the post to nail that sucker up...hehe... how can you tell I am a farmer...hehe My husband would love it for his buildings I had him make, you know horse shelters, cat house etc... he tries to make them a square as possible, but when you are working with would that is worped like crazy can make this task hard as all get out. Lana PS Thanks for all the explanations too!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boom Posted October 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 (edited) Thanks Roger. The tank will be an all male Malawi setup. Peacocks, Haps, and a few mbuna. No plants so I don't need the CO2. And the heater will be in the sump. The flow both out of the tank into the sump and out of the sump back into the tank will be controllable with the ball-valves. 1900 GPH is the pumps rated capacity. At an estimated head height of 5 feet, it'll be closer to 1400 gph. I'm planning something special to get easy access to the sump to clean the media out regularly. So stay tuned for that! Good tip on using lube on the ball-valves, thanks for that. I've already got some aquarium safe stuff I plan to use. Roger, quick question, with putting the heater in the sump, how do I determine what size heater I need? Edited October 17, 2008 by Boom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsgofishn Posted October 18, 2008 Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 Hey Drydock and Boom, Thanks for sharing your ideas, I am setting up my first sump as well on my 300 gallon. Drydock, any pics of your setup. Thanks :thumbs: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
werner Posted October 18, 2008 Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 Are you going to set up auto top off? I didn't and I regret it now... Think about it. I second that. I looooove my auto top off. Great project- thanks for letting us follow along! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boom Posted October 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 O.k. So I did some research on the auto top off systems. If I understand correctly it just uses a float valve to determine when you've lost x amount of water due to evaporation, then adds water to get back to a proper level. Correct? I'm thinking that with a glass lid completely covering the tank, and a lid on the sump as well, I'm not gonna loose enough to evaporation in between water changes to make this worth while. On my 55 with a not as tight fitting lid, I barely loose enough water to even notice over a 2 week period. I know the surface area of a 180 is much larger, but the glass lid will be tighter fitting as well. Am I wrong or missing something re. the top off system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boom Posted October 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 Oh, and on another note. I talked to Arnold last night and he found his glass cutting drill bits, so he's coming over Monday morning to do some drilling for me. I doubt I'll get any other work done before then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted October 18, 2008 Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 You should be OK with evaporation, especially since you're using a Durso. Just make sure your drain is submerged in your sump, so that you have minimal spalshing, and you should be fine. I lose a lot of water b/c I have an open top, and I let the water drop about 4" into my overflow... and no ATO! I just don't have room under my stand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
werner Posted October 18, 2008 Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 O.k. So I did some research on the auto top off systems. If I understand correctly it just uses a float valve to determine when you've lost x amount of water due to evaporation, then adds water to get back to a proper level. Correct? Most are like that. I have the Tunze one which uses an electronic eye instead of a float to see when the water level drops. I'm thinking that with a glass lid completely covering the tank, and a lid on the sump as well, I'm not gonna loose enough to evaporation in between water changes to make this worth while. Yeah, the lids will make a difference. I have an open top tank, so lots of evaporation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boom Posted October 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 (edited) Werner, that Tunze system looks pretty fancy schmancy! Would definitely be nice to have. I think for now I'll see how I do with just the lids, and can always add the ATO later. I don't want the humidity that high in my basement. :thumbs: Boom :boom: Edited October 18, 2008 by Boom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm Posted October 19, 2008 Report Share Posted October 19, 2008 Roger, quick question, with putting the heater in the sump, how do I determine what size heater I need? I don't think you will need to have a heater large enough for the actual tank size, since you only really need to heat the water that is going through the sump. I would get about a 200 Watt heater. Depending on the type of pump you have as well, they also provide some heat to warm the water. Some of the set ups at work we don't even use heaters in the tank or sump, because the pump provides enough heat for the tank. I don't know how well this will work or not though. I will have to find out what type of pumps we are using. ATO are great to use, but if you are keeping lids on the sump I should imagine there would be minimal water evaporation. And you won't have to top up as often. Sounds like this is going to be a great tank :thumbs: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boom Posted October 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2008 (edited) Thanks guys. I had bought a 200 watt heater that I had planned to use but a friend who has a 55 withKribensis and some tetra's, her heater broke and I gave my new one to her. So maybe what I'll do is wait till I have the tank set up and cycling, and see how warm the water is with just the heat from the sump pump. If I only need to bring it up a few degrees a smaller heater (150 - 200 watt) should suffice. If it's way cold, I'll need to get bigger or multiple heaters. Here is a sketch of what the final project should look like. I will be doing all the finish carpentry, trim, shelves, canopy, cabinet doors etc. out of solid cherry wood. I am thinking about doing some inlay patterns, possibly with black walnut or another contrasting wood. Of coarse this sketch doesn't show that kind of detail at all. The cabinets will be a bit wider, and the wife wanted storage for kids toys, so that's what that is if your wondering. We have a 19 month old boy and a new baby girl coming in January. I also went and bought my rocks from Canar today on my lunch break. I got 3 large boulders, and a bunch of medium and smaller rocks, as well as some small stones. All of it is Rundle rock, which I like. 750 lbs worth. Do you think that'll be enough? Now I'm off to clean my balls... Bio-balls that is. Boom :boom: Edited October 19, 2008 by Boom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lana Bollers Posted October 19, 2008 Report Share Posted October 19, 2008 When I build an addition or a house, which ever I can afford in my near future... I am phoning you to come and build me a nice setup like what you have going on here.... dang I wish I had more room, that 200 gal tank that is for sale on this list would hold a lot of dolphins....I just don't have the room for it right now...booohoooo... but one day But you wont have to clean my balls....ROTFLMAO Lana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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