Breeding bristlenose plecos

[Vallisneria]

Has anyone bred Bristlenose plecos? Can you please share what type of setup you use and any tips you might have.

I'm thinking of trying to breed my female BN to a male i bought at the auction. I have a 15g with sand and a couple crypts,rocks(i would add more caves for breeding). Would this tank be ok?

[African_Fever]

Make sure that they're the same species first. From what I understand, there are a number of species that look very similar, and they will cross. I'm actually attempting the same thing right now, and from the looks of one of my females I better get my act together and get a cave ready for them! Her belly is huge! I've actually been told that feeding high protein foods helps, but I've been feeding the NLS wafers and cucumbers and both disappear overnight (though the petro's probably get the wafers). They seem rather easy from all the research I've found, so we'll have to keep each other posted!

[dunl]

Knowing NOTHING about these and breeding, are these a species that requires a current for breeding? I know I read somewhere that you need that for a certain species of pleco, but I can't remember where I found that.

[Toirtis]

Bns are a breeze to breed....a 15 should be fine, and as long as you have a mature pair....they love tight spaces to breed in, and two of the best appear to be coconut-half caves and the underside of upside-down terracotta planter saucers.

[Vallisneria]

As for what species the BN plecos are, I'm not sure. I guess it never occured to me. I guess i'll have to look into that before.

But usually when you buy BN plecos they are jsut labeled as "bristlenose" not by their species. So how can you be sure any of the plecos you are buying are a certain species? Since msot are captive bred they can be anything, already crossed by the time you get them.

[Oxquo]

I find that most Bristles for sale are dolichopterus unless marked. Often the price will be Jacked up on Hoplo's. As for feeding, My best breeding results came from Sera viformo and alternating with spinach zucchini and canned green beans rinsed and frozen. When thawed squeeze the air out of the beans and let them sink, this is also a great fry food. A cold water change of about 65F did well and after that they bred at random. I have bred them now in both african tanks and SA tanks. Don't worry about the fry as the male pleco is generally the toughest fish in the tank by far during spawn and especially once the fry leave the cave and cling to the sides. I have suffered a wound or two from my big 5.5" male but lived to tell. Temp plays an importance in hatching as it has taken between 4 days in the african tank and 6 in the unheated breeding tank. Leaving the deitrus on the bottom and only changing water from the middle works well too but change a good 10% a day with this method. I have bred mine in a ten and larger keep in mind that once the male is doen with the female she becomes a target. She will be seen inside the cave prior to spawn and clinging to the furthest wall of the cave shortly after. One trick that worked with my youngest breeders was to start with tap water and then daily do a soft and acidic water change of 10% portions as usual snow is my choice, adding a little black water doesn't hurt either. As for species they aren't hard to tell apart, planet catfish can help if you still arent sure. The very very most important step is conditioning, I found that on mysis and high protien my guy got sluggish though some may be different. 3 feedings a night and one in the day or a steady supply of algae works very good. Remember, once the fry hatch your algae will be in short supply and feeding 3 green beans a day will seldom be enough. I have used both a coconut cave and a hollow log, the cave was cool though since when I flipped it over he would come out and flip it back, next time I tried he would race out and try to give me a whooping. Be also aware that pleco's under 2 years are seldomly fertile.

Last but not least, leave the Dad with his nest, even if a spawn or two never hatches, he will get better. My attempt at raising half of the nest was a disaster and chewing the fry out of their shell is tough to duplicate on such fragile big eggs. The pic below was in my ten gallon when I flipped over Cujo's cave, This was my first and only warning. I have left his spawns alone ever since. I've also retrieve 44 fry from inside my aquaclear before, believe it or not I still have 7 of those and all 44 lived. What is the toughest fish around, Hmmm have to say pleco since I keep them with all of my way too aggressive cichlids, I believe the first cut is the deepest as they never try again.

[Vallisneria]

Thanks Oxquo

So would you suggest using my 15g with sand and plants or just using one of my 10g(bare bottom).

So will they breed in regular edmonton tap water? Or will i need to do water changes with acidic water to get them to spawn?

I checked planetcatfish to try and ID my BN and couldnt' find any pics taht really matched. It did say this though

The common Bristlenose is captive bred and almost impossible to identify to species. It is not assigned to species here for that reason

So if this is true is there a chance i will be able to id my plecos to a species? I got my female a couple years ago and it was just labeled "bristlenose pleco". The closest pic i could find of her was this one http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/loric...istru/275_6.php But she doesnt' have this camoflauge coloring all the time, most times she shows a plain bown, with pale dots. My male looks like this one http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/loric...cistru/49_7.php They are both about 4- 4.5"

[Oxquo]

Well they look like a pair to me. I have lately only found variations in color patterns, as in that picture the fish displays light mottling not a profound white dot, My best guess is that it is still dolichopterus and that the light spotting found in some is only a location difference. Either way, a 10 is generally fine, just add a couple of caves, some good munchy wood and sand is optional. Differing from cories I have yet to have a belly rot problem from bare tank bottom. As for water, I find that once they get into spawning as in after the first spawn they will spawn when you least expect it and often. To get the initial spawn though, it doesn't hurt to try the poor mans kirschbaum method and use simply tap water but add a gallon of cold snowy water to the tank every day or second day Make sure they are well conditioned before this as the males and females have low tolerance to one another at the best of times. As soon as you notice her allowed in his cave and not glued to the log, keep an eye on them, it is best to remove her once he has chased her away. After that relax, he is a better parent than most people and whether he succeeds the first or second time or not, keep trying. As I mentioned before, ancistrus will seldom spawn under two years of age, in the chance they do it will likely be sterile. good luck I know it was my very favorite spawn of all.

[Vallisneria]

Thanks so much Oxquo, your very helpful

I think i might go with the 10g w/ barebottom. I think it will be easier to keep clean. After the sapwning, instead of removing the female coudl i just add a divider?Or is it best to move her out of the tank?

My female is over 2 years of age. Not sure how old my male is though as i just got him.

[Oxquo]

I think a divider would work better in a larger tank. In a small tank I am not sure, out of sight out of mind seems like the best idea. I have to say that my Satanoperca and Geophagus make my pleco a nasty father though but with plecos and loaches being night hunters and the fry scattering wildly upon leaving the cave I think the female may munch a few. Your choice but I would opt to get the most fry from a spawn possible. My next attempt I will try a huge harem spawn, I have 5 females and 1 male, I am hoping to get all of the females to gather eggs in one spot then remove them, My average has been between 40 and 50 eggs so I hope to get over 200, I am starting algae cultures in every jar I have right now saving up for that moment.

[Vallisneria]

I think a divider would work better in a larger tank. In a small tank I am not sure, out of sight out of mind seems like the best idea. I have to say that my Satanoperca and Geophagus make my pleco a nasty father though but with plecos and loaches being night hunters and the fry scattering wildly upon leaving the cave I think the female may munch a few

I'm not quite sure i understand Why would a divider work in a larger tank and not a smaller tank? I if were to use a divider how would the female be able to eat the eggs?

So if i understand, you said after spawning has taken place to remove the female from the tank because the male will chase her away. Right? Then the male will guard the eggs untill they hatch. Once hatch does the male need to be removed?

[Oxquo]

What I meant was that in a small tank, a divider may make the female all too present and the male may still spend too much time fending her off even though she cannot get through the divider. In a larger tank she would be further away and less of a threat so he can continue with his fatherly duties. Lets put it this way, even if you had a huge house, if you could see your neighbour Charles Manson from your window, you would still feel a little edgy. lol. As for egg eating, I was just mentioning a case where I had a loach I never knew still existed sneak into my nest and clean it out. Of course this can be advoided by barebottom tanks. Amazingly enough I even moved from Edmonton to here with empty tanks and gravel in bags Yet 4 months after setting up again I realised that my horseface loach is still alive and uprooting plants.

After hatch 3-5 days depending on temp usually 4-5 in 78F the male will never harm the fry, I keep them together for atleast two weeks. If pulled too soon and placed back in the maintenance tank I have noticed my males blaming the females and beating them occassionally. Removing the female and leaving the male with the fry for two weeks also gives the female some time to condition without harassment and gets her ready for the next spawn. Remember though, feed alot and watch your water. Also, if feeding the canned rinsed green beans, look inside the bean before throwing it in the garbage if uneaten, I have found many fry inside of the beans who almost met their fate.

[Vallisneria]

Excellent, thanks so much

What I meant was that in a small tank, a divider may make the female all too present and the male may still spend too much time fending her off even though she cannot get through the divider. In a larger tank she would be further away and less of a threat so he can continue with his fatherly duties.

This makes much more sense

OK, i think i'll try this in the next little while, jsut have to get all the tanks ready. How will i know when the female and male are "conditioned" properly?

Also i'm going to be buying some coconuts to makes soem caves. How big shoudl i make the openings? just big enough for the fish to fit through?

[Oxquo]

Feed them fast and furious with tonnes of veggie matter. My ancistrus have been freaking over the seaweed selects "Pleco Passion" Green beans Zucchini keep the skin on, etc... a little mysis doesn't hurt either but make sure to try the feedings as late as you can get them. Within a week or two your female will be beginning to swell, The rest is history, as usual the male will covet the cave, it's when he excepts the female into his domain that the party begins, it is within hours of that that the female is no longer a mate but an enemy. Yes, she can get hurt or worse in tight quarters with no appropriate cover.

I generally use a 2 1/2" hole saw for the caves this makes 2 caves with approx 1 1/4" hole each. For quick and easy follow these steps, the microwaving stinks a bit but it makes life very easy. Don't mind a little coconut on the shell, it will get rasped off in no time and will not alter your water.Coconut caves made easy by me.

[Vallisneria]

but make sure to try the feedings as late as you can get them

Not sure what this part means???

I've been feeding NLS waffers to my male and he absolutely loves them. He goes crazy when i drop them in, more so then i have seen him do with any other foods. DO you think that the NLS waffers will be enough to condition them? or should i add some mysis shrimp and veggies too?

I really appreciate you taking the time to answer all my quesitons oxquo I"ll keep you updated on ym progress. Plu si'm usr ei'll have mroe quesitons soon :P