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Lab Test: Prime


roypark05
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While I was doing the chlorine tests for the plant production water tonight, I took one of the samples and put some PRIME in it, to see how well it works. Here's what I got:

Label says 5 mL per 200 L (50 gal) of water. Samples for testing are 200 mL, so I put 1 mL in the sample, gave it a quick mix, then tested it. It tested for 0 parts of total chlorine (chloramine) that quickly. The reaction is instantaneous.

I know everyone here on the AA forum already has faith in Prime as a means of removing that pesky Edmonton chloramine, but I just wanted to let any of the would be doubters know that this stuff really works! :thumbs:

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Good to know and thanks for the info.

I have always been curious to know how long prime is active for after adding it into the water. For instance if I remove 30 percent of the water in my tank and add prime to what is left in that tank and then go work on my other tank for 15-30 mins or so before coming back and filling the first tank with water would there be any issues? I generally try to add it right after taking the water out since I will forget otherwise.

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If all the chlorine or chloramine is neutralized by adding Prime, a sulfite residual will exist. This residual will decrease over time with other reactions that will occur naturally. Any remaining sulfite residual will also be removed by activated carbon in the filter (if thats what you have).

I'll do another couple tests to measure how long a sulfite residual can last in a tank by using my own tank water. I'll do it up this weekend and then post the results.

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To be honest almost all water conditioners on the market will have an instantaneous reaction if all one is doing is attempting to neutralize chlorine. The key with products such as Prime is the effect that they have on free ammonia, which is the main concern if one is dealing with chloramine treated tap water, and not just chlorine. According to the folks at Seachem Prime dissipates from your system within 24 hours, the exact amount of time that takes will vary depending on a number of factors.

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To be honest almost all water conditioners on the market will have an instantaneous reaction if all one is doing is attempting to neutralize chlorine. The key with products such as Prime is the effect that they have on free ammonia, which is the main concern if one is dealing with chloramine treated tap water, and not just chlorine. According to the folks at Seachem Prime dissipates from your system within 24 hours, the exact amount of time that takes will vary depending on a number of factors.

Ya, that is very true, almost all will have an instantaneous reaction if your only neutralizing chlorine, but we are after the chloramines,

and another but, ...what other EXTRA residuals would you get from some of the other products. I don't really care but maybe others do. I will only use Prime and if I am out, only a couple of other products if I have to.

Lets wait for roypark05 water testing part 2.

Hey roypark05? Thanks for testing and posting results. Appreciated :thumbs:

Henry

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No argument there Henry, that was just my subtle way of suggesting that a test for free ammonia would be more telling, than simply testing for the reaction time in neutralizing chlorine. :)

With a final caveat of realizing that the free ammonia results can vary, depending on the local water supply, and even the time of year. (as in the level of chloramine being used)

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No argument there Henry, that was just my subtle way of suggesting that a test for free ammonia would be more telling, than simply testing for the reaction time in neutralizing chlorine. :)

With a final caveat of realizing that the free ammonia results can vary, depending on the local water supply, and even the time of year. (as in the level of chloramine being used)

:thumbs:

:beer:

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Okay, so I've got everything set up so I can do the tests tomorrow, and I'll post them tomorrow. So here's what I plan on doing:

1. Add Prime to tap water, check for free ammonia right away and for sulfite residual. Check sulfite residual after a few hours.

2. Check my aquarium water for sulfite residual.

So if there is anything else you'd like me to test, post it here today and I'll most likely be able to have a look at it tomorrow.

Just to clear things up a bit about chloramine residual in Edmonton tap water, it doesn't vary based on season or anything. We increase doses due to higher demands which is impacted seasonally, but by the time it leaves the plant it's roughly 2 mg/L chloramine regardless. We keep that residual constant by adding a trim amount of chloramine (sodium hypochlorite and ammonia added at the same time to be exact) just as the water is en route to the reservoirs.

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Like I was saying, we will increase the dose during spring run-off, but it's all based on an end residual of 2.0 mg/L. Like right now we're dosing about 2.85 mg/L but by the time the water is ready to do to the reservoir, we're down to about 1.95 mg/L and we add 0.05 mg/L at the trim. In spring run-off we will dose in some cases in excess of 4 mg/L, and the trim may be as high as 0.5 mg/L but when it leaves the plant it's 2.0 mg/L

Anyway I have an ammonia analyzer at my disposal, but it may or may not work correctly for me, which will leave me with nothing more than a little aquarium test kit.

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Ok, gotcha, thanks for the info. When testing for ammonia you will require something that actaully tests for "free" ammonia (NH3), not just total ammonia which is what most test kits will provide (NH3+NH4) or you will get a false positive when using products such as Prime. I believe that Seachem is one of the few (or the only?) aquarium based test product that will test for free ammonia. http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pa...MT_Ammonia.html

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