creekbottom Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 I've been doing a ton of reading over at TPT about CO2, regulators, reactors, atomizers, blah, blah, blah... my eyes hurt. It's been an interesting read and I feel that I have learned something and things aren't as confusing as they once were. So I'm wading in about as fast as the wimpy kid at the lake on May long weekend I've already got some parts that I managed to wiggle out from work cause we were never going to use them again anyway. Just maybe not 100% sure about them. I've got a Victor single stage regulator with appropriate gauges and even a 320 connection! Single stage is good enough for me, especially if it was free! Just not sure about the low pressure gauge, is there supposed to be oil leaking out the top? The little nub on the top of the rubber was cut off and oil comes out when you turn it over. Hmmmm. So far, that's all I've got, the tanks at work were too old otherwise I'd have 2 - 5lb'ers!!! Been looking at solenoids, needle valves, bubble counters, check valves, on and on... I think I'm set on a Burkert solenoid if I can find one, a parker needle valve, any kind of bubble counter with a built in check valve. Although I hear they aren't really reliable so I'm looking for a seperate check valve too. Then I'm going to put it in the tank!!!! Oh wait... I've got to get a cylinder first lol. That will most likely be the last thing I get. Currently I'm using a yeast setup for a 20g and 10g, run through an internal filter to chop bubbles. The noise is driving me up the wall as I sit here on the couch typing. The water sound is soothing and relaxing, puts me in a zen state.... cha cha cha cha bubbles being chewed up. I feel like mangling something now lol. So to alleviate that problem, and I'm pretty excited about this, I'm going to use a Cerges reactor!!!!!!! And cause I get to do some DIY stuff too :w00t: not that I'm handy or anything. I'm a musician, the staff at HD or Lowes or Rona are going to get to know me lol. My whole thought process behind this: One day I will have a tank big enough to lay down in and I'm going to need this stuff anyway, so I might as well start now. That's what I'm telling myself anyway. Thanks for reading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cullymoto Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 im not 100% but... sealed gauges need to still be sealed to read properly. the reading on the gauge is a balnce between the pressure inside the gauge (sealed) and the pressure in the system the gauge is connected to. if it is leaking than the balance will not be what the gauge was calibrated to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Your old tanks might still be OK. Try taking them to be hydrotested - I had a 20lb tank that cost around $25 after they put in new seals and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubr0ke Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 I've been doing a ton of reading over at TPT about CO2, regulators, reactors, atomizers, blah, blah, blah... my eyes hurt. It's been an interesting read and I feel that I have learned something and things aren't as confusing as they once were. So I'm wading in about as fast as the wimpy kid at the lake on May long weekend I've already got some parts that I managed to wiggle out from work cause we were never going to use them again anyway. Just maybe not 100% sure about them. I've got a Victor single stage regulator with appropriate gauges and even a 320 connection! Single stage is good enough for me, especially if it was free! Just not sure about the low pressure gauge, is there supposed to be oil leaking out the top? The little nub on the top of the rubber was cut off and oil comes out when you turn it over. Hmmmm. So far, that's all I've got, the tanks at work were too old otherwise I'd have 2 - 5lb'ers!!! Been looking at solenoids, needle valves, bubble counters, check valves, on and on... I think I'm set on a Burkert solenoid if I can find one, a parker needle valve, any kind of bubble counter with a built in check valve. Although I hear they aren't really reliable so I'm looking for a seperate check valve too. Then I'm going to put it in the tank!!!! Oh wait... I've got to get a cylinder first lol. That will most likely be the last thing I get. Currently I'm using a yeast setup for a 20g and 10g, run through an internal filter to chop bubbles. The noise is driving me up the wall as I sit here on the couch typing. The water sound is soothing and relaxing, puts me in a zen state.... cha cha cha cha bubbles being chewed up. I feel like mangling something now lol. So to alleviate that problem, and I'm pretty excited about this, I'm going to use a Cerges reactor!!!!!!! And cause I get to do some DIY stuff too :w00t: not that I'm handy or anything. I'm a musician, the staff at HD or Lowes or Rona are going to get to know me lol. My whole thought process behind this: One day I will have a tank big enough to lay down in and I'm going to need this stuff anyway, so I might as well start now. That's what I'm telling myself anyway. Thanks for reading! Just make sure the regulator is for inert gas or there can be issues..whats the model # of the victor and ill check. You should not use regulators that are made for fuel or anything but inert gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creekbottom Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 Victor regulator SR 250C. We were using it for CO2 tanks at work as well. And Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubr0ke Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 Ya your ok. Its for oxygen but for our use it will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubr0ke Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 if your unfamiliar with the build of a co2 system look in my Journal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creekbottom Posted December 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 That is a great tutorial, thanks for the suggestion. Where did you get those handy fittings? And the check valve? I'll have a better idea of what I need as things appear. I always need to see the stuff first and then I can visualize what kind of fitting I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubr0ke Posted December 10, 2012 Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 (edited) That is a great tutorial, thanks for the suggestion. Where did you get those handy fittings? And the check valve? I'll have a better idea of what I need as things appear. I always need to see the stuff first and then I can visualize what kind of fitting I need. swagelok has every fitting you will need. You can order right off the website. the check valve your looking for is here http://www.swagelok....f1-2a086c6523b7 thats npt to npt..thread to thread..you could also use the thread to tube. the part number is b-2c2-1/3.. I used stainless steel but you could use brass for a lot cheaper.. As for the needle valve and solenoid, I bought from the states but you can try ebay..The problem with building these setups is you need to know the specs your looking for or you may buy something that doesn't really work with our use. Edited December 10, 2012 by ubr0ke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creekbottom Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) I got all my fittings today!!! Useful things I have learned in this process: There is a swagelok dealer here in Edmonton! There is a Burkert distributor in Edmonton too! I haven't heard back from them yet about a 6011A. The problem with building these setups is you need to know the specs your looking for or you may buy something that doesn't really work with our use. No kidding! Several times on ebay I thought I had exactly what I wanted, but no... All I can say is thank goodness I've taken this slow and done a buttload of research and reading. That way the guys at Swagelok and Burkert don't think I'm an idiot lol! Edited January 5, 2013 by creekbottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blink Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I've got one of those needle valves, I'm guessing it was $25 on ebay? Really solid little (huge??) valve. I just need one or two fittings and I should be ready to set my co2 up as well. Which swagelok dealer did you go to? And who sells Burkert lol I know that there are some SMC dealers, a couple fabco and clippard dealers too... it's soooo nice living in an industry/manufacturing oriented city. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creekbottom Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Swagelok - Edmonton valve and fitting, southside. Burkert - Barben industries, Argyll road. I told them what I wanted but I haven't heard back yet. I got my meter valve off ebay, pretty cheap considering. Where/what did you get for a solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creekbottom Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 The guy at Barben called back this morning and found exactly what I want, only problem is it will take 4-6 weeks to get here. Oh well, there still isn't anything on ebay so I figure I'm ahead. And even with all the reading he still stumped me. "What size orifice?" Duh.... I went medium lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CursiveDuck Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 Just wondering the cost of shipping+ parts at the end, or if you have a slight estimate of total cost so we can gauge what your saving DIY, vs the 125$ Milwaukee dual stage unit readily available around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blink Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 (edited) Just so you know, the Milwaukee MA 957 that you see around (JL Aquatics has it for $104 with free shipping btw) is only a single stage, not a dual stage. As for the costs, I haven't got a solenoid yet but I'm going with what looks like a similar system as creekbottom. My cost has been as follows: -Regulator - free, normally $20-100 depending on source (new vs. kijiji), quality and dual or single stage. Mine is a fairly high quality single stage, would probably have cost $60 at a Linde welding supply store. -Pressure gauge to replace flow meter on regulator - $10, Princess Auto, not normally something you'd need but my regulator was previously used for argon. -Needle valve - $25, Ebay -Fittings - $15, all from Home Depot, could probably be done for less at a plumbing supply house -Bubble counter - $6, Fluval from LFS -Teflon tape - $1 I can't think of anything else I've forgotten, but as you can see, I haven't spent that much on mine so far and all I need to complete it is a solenoid which should be around $10-30 depending on what I choose. If you look around and shop kijiji or ask friends who are or know welders you could probably get something equivalent in function but better in quality than the Milwaukee for about the same price. The main attraction to the Milwaukee is that it's a plug and play, you get your cylinder, hook this up and connect it to your diffuser of choice. I don't know if it's still around but someone had a Matheson model 8 dual stage on kijiji for $50, that would be an excellent starting point which would be head and shoulders above the Milwaukee, especially if you add a good needle valve. Edited January 13, 2013 by blink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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