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Planted Questions


Bruno
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I tried some plants a while back with a 20G, but stayed low tech with a single t8 bulb, some eco-complete and excel dosed once in a while. The plants actually did great, but the 20G was taken down to make room.

Now I am considering trying a planted tank again with a 37 G that has been serving as a QT/Hospital tank but not really getting much use. So my plan is to empty it, start fresh and go planted in it this time. It has a single t8 bulb right now and a fluval U4 and a AC70 running. I thought I would start out low tech and work my way up the planted ladder from there.

So first question is substrate. I used Eco-Complete before and the plants did pretty good, though I found it was a little course and light for getting plants to anchor at first. I don't think I am ready to go dirted as I expect I will be uprooting and moving plants around as I learn about them and try different combinations, so I am looking for options that are a little easier for now. I would also like to try a 'carpet' of some sort, so a substrate that will promote horizontal growth of some type of short grass/plant would also be on my wish list. Any suggestions as to what I should consider for substrate?

I expect to exchange all the equipment on the tank as I move forward with better lighting, maybe trying Co2 (so I think a canister filter will be better then HOB as I wont want to have so much surface agitation?) Right now just working my way around web resources etc to try to take it all in before starting.

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How much taller is the 37 ? I think with a single T8 the tank will measure firmly in the 'low light' realm.

I am not certain you would enjoy my typical substrate choice. I have never used eco-complete. Although the photos make it look coarser than kitty litter.

AP.com and Shultz's aquatic soil is a coarser size as well. Because the a fore mentioned 4 types are porous plants root to them as opposed to amongst them. Fluval makes similar product of smaller grain size. Shrimp/planted Stratum ? or something like that.

I blame fish for uprooting. I am not certain any substrate specificly promotes horizontal growth tendencies - as such.

Many plants will only carpet under higher light.

Some will always hug low

For low growing plants I would suggest Marsilae (clover) E. tennelus. Pelia. Guppy grass or tiny crypts - Parva, Willissi, etc

Only trouble with those is they are sooooo slow. - If you are young; you may be to impatient to see them fill in.,,,and if you are too old you may not be around to see them fill in ! ;)

I have seen HOB's provide more uniform flow than canisters - perfectly appropriate for a planted tank.

It is the trimming that will make or break this endeavor. Don"t grow anything tall enough to cast shade.

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Don't bother with ada. While it does work as MANY other good substrates work it is overpriced greatly and from this fact alone I discourage this product. I was never on the ada bandwagon as being the cats meow of the planted tank world.. If you want something that does a great job Seachem's fluorite is a great product which I've used in the past. I know you say your not ready for a dirted tank...I'd suggest to take another look at it is the best route IMO. I've helped many in this forum as well as outside with advice on how to achieve a great dirted planted tank.

I grow and sell plants regularly with my dirted tank and I have no issues when moving plants. It is the way you build the substrate layers that is what is important. No substrate will promote horizontal growth but rather the tank conditions you provide, especially light will make carpet plants low or run high. More light typically shorter carpet plants. If you'd like I can provide a few carpet plants to get you going. If you do want to have a carpet plant consider having a dry-start. Again, if you want any advice on this I'd be happy to offer assistance.

Co2 is fun ~$150-200 for a rough setup and it does work very well. Liquid carbon also does a great job...in regards it is better than gas Co2. There are + and - for each. For surface agitation don't get overly concerned with it. While you don't need your planted tank to have some ultra tidal pool flow...flow in a planted tank is necessary to bring nutrient freshly to all parts of the tank. I have a canister and two hydors in my tank for good flow @ all corners.

If you wanted more info on the internet I can provide dozens of links on for various aspects on planted tank.

Most important...read as your doing and have fun!!

Edited by ckmullin
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Thanks for the advice so far... and please keep it coming. I had been leaning toward Fluorite this go around and may try mineralized dirted another time.

The lighting will probably be the first thing I change as I know it is going to be low light for the 37 since it is a deeper tank. I'll have more questions on that soon enough, but for now thought I will start with some low light/easy plants while I do more reading. I was considering Java Fern and Anubias as I had good success with them last time... any other plants to put it a low light/low tech? I had amazon swords that grew great last time that were moved to my 55 and are still going in there. For carpet, I was under the impression I would do better to wait till I addressed the lighting before going that direction... good idea?

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Soil works well too if you are trying to save a few bucks. I have a tank using Micro Grow soil and it's not bad. However, I find dirt tank to be really messy. If you are trying to replant something, rescape your tank or just any sudden movements it will cause a horrible dust cloud. And clogs your filters up

Also you have to think about the look of your tank. I personally don't find dirt to be appealing l in a tank that's why I went with ADA for my other tanks. But it's a personal choice.

You can't go wrong with ADA. It looks great, it smells great, and it's great for plants.

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,,, considering Java Fern and Anubias as I had good success with them last time... any other plants to put it a low light/low tech?

I had amazon swords that grew great last time that were moved to my 55 and are still going in there

. For carpet, I was under the impression I would do better to wait till I addressed the lighting before going that direction... good idea?

Jave fern, Anubias would work, as you know. I forgot to mention java moss.

Carpet away !! As I mentioned,

--Marsilae (clover) E. tennelus. Pelia. Guppy grass or tiny crypts - Parva, Willissi,

These are all low-gro pavement huggers. They will survive under a single T-8.

Considering every plant mention in this post Swords demand the most light - and they will kill the tenants in the basement suite

I find fine clay and peat cloud a tank most effectively.
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No. Just because you have t5ho does not mean you need co2. Yes, things need to be in balance but that can easily be done by adjusting photo period imo. If you want use liquid carbon if you don't want co2. It does a great job. It's also about tank husbandry. Proper maintenance. The point is to have plant out compete algae. That is key at any level...low/med/high light.

Yes sunblasters work great as well. I have a little sunblaster setup for use for a single species dry-start grow-out tank.

Edited by ckmullin
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My concern with upping the lights to t5ho is I then increase my need to add c02 dont I? I thought I had read that too much light with no co2 and I could be facing algae issues.

Get a jug of Metricide - it's twice as strong as Seachem Excel and only cost about $20/gal. You'll be able to dose as much CO2 as you need with Metricide w/o getting a pressurized system right away (tho, pressurized CO2 is my prefered method - set it and forget it!).

If you check my journal, you'll see a few planted tanks over the years. The only substrate I use is sand. It's cheap, and almost all aquatic plants take up nutrients thru the water column, anyway. For the heavy root feeders, just add some root tabs near by. If you do upgrade your light (I'm a Finnex fan, personally), make sure to buy some fertilizers too - head to the Hydroponics store, as their dry ferts will be WAY cheaper than the liquid stuff you'll get from the LFS. The key to keeping happy plants is to balance your nutrients; CO2 is most important, followed by NO3, K and PO4... then micronutrients/trace. If your nutrients are balanced, your plants should easily out-compete the algae; if you lose balance, you'll see algae start to creep in and take over.

Have plants, have fun!!

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