corrosionjerry

I am wondering if this is practicle or not... Here is the complete link...Werner had posted it earlier... Is material that is stuffed into the bottom realy porus enough to handle the flow from the Power head and defuse the co2 ? http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html

DIY Powered CO2 Forced Reactor This section describes a DIY powered CO2 reactor made from parts widely available at nearly all LFS (local fish store) and online dealers. No special tools are required since all components push together, with the single exception of a drill bit. The cost of the entire device is under $35US complete and has a total count of 8 parts inclusively. The unit also doubles as a mechanical/biological sponge filter system, and could be the sole filtration for tanks up to 30 gallons in volume. The image to the right shows a drawing of the completed unit. The unit will work with DIY yeast systems, or the more complex pressurized CO2 systems commercially available. The primary purpose of this reactor is to allow CO² to be thoroughly dissolved into the tank water. This is accomplished by injecting the CO² into the reactor, and keeping it contained in a chamber with a high flow rate of water. This is an active system, which means it brings water under pressure to the CO² instead of simply allowing the CO2 to passively meet standing water, as in a diffusor with scintered glass or a bell. It also is much less prone to clogging like the aforementioned diffusor. The system prevents CO2 bubbles from escaping the tank before being dissolved; meaning nearly all the CO2 you inject gets dissolved. By having a large foam pad over the inlet for the powerhead, instead of the usual inlet basket, the unit doubles as a foam filter. This also prevent clogging of the pump impeller and keeps the mesh pillow at the bottom of the reactor chamber clear from debris. If debris was allowed to collect on this pillow, flow would be impeded and the CO2 would have a difficult time getting into the reactor due to back pressure in the chamber. A check valve on the CO² line is therefore a requirement. I have determined that this foam filter would be sufficient to supply all the filtering needs in a heavily planted tank, with a moderate fish load, of up to 30 gallons. No other filtration would necessarily be needed. The pump is a standard powerhead, a Maxi-Jet PH 600 manufactured by Aquarium Systems. This unit sells on the web for about $14 and is used to pump water into the reactor chamber and as the filter. It delivers a flow rate of about 160gph, which in theory would pump the water of a 55 gallon tank twice every hour through the reactor chamber. Most of the Maxi-Jet's supplied accessories are unused except the suction cups used to attach it to the tank wall. The pump itself will be used unmodified for this application. The Maxi-Jet 600 PH pump and power head includes an innovative triple-suction cup mount which is sufficient to hold the entire reactor in place inside your tank. It is a fully submersible powerhead and the only items that need to be fed out of the tank will be the AC power cord for the powerhead, and the CO2 supply line. The design of this powerhead is of a very simple three piece construction. A simple twist of the inlet/outlet flange, and the impeller simply pulls out for cleaning or replacement, if necessary. The unit also has, as an option, a basket and foam filter which could be used instead of the foam filter I will recommend shortly. This foam prefilter is not as large, nor will it supply the amount of filtration as the foam filter used in this reactor design. It could however be used on tanks that already have a pre-existing filtration system. Either way, a foam filter of some kind should be used to prevent the powerhead, or especially the chamber pillow, from clogging with debris. Since the foam filter is on the top of the unit, it makes it easier to remove, rinse, and reattach. If the chamber pillow gets clogged, because a prefilter is not used, the entire reactor would have to be removed to gain access to the pillow, which is located at the bottom of the reactor chamber. In short, make sure you use some kind of pre-filter on this reactor. The foam filter used in this design is an Eheim prefilter that was supplied with my Eheim 2227 wet/dry filtration system. The Eheim part number is 2615270. It is a cylindrical foam filter that fit snuggly over 1/2" tubing. I cut a piece of tubing (again supplied with my Eheim filter) approximately 2" in length. This slips snugly over the inlet pipe of the Maxi-jet powerhead. The foam prefilter is then slid onto this tubing. That's it! The next item is the device for the reactor chamber itself. If you haven't figured it out already, it's a gravel cleaning tube. This specific one is from the Python Products No-Spill water changer system. These tubes cost about $10US. This particular one is the 10" version. The tube is a clear plastic and the flange at the top is a softer more pliable plastic. Take this flange and remove it from the tube. On the top, halfway between the outer edge and the hole for the tubing, drill a small hole to fit the rigid tube that will be inserted for the airstone and the inlet of CO2. This can be done by twisting a drill bit between your fingers. Make sure this hole is drilled perfectly parallel to the clear plastic tube walls. The diameter of the hole will be determined by the particular rigid tubing you use. Make sure the hole is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the tubing chosen, so as to assure a very tight fit. More on this later. What I liked about this tube (and by the way, what gave me idea for this reactor) is the fact that the flange on top is slightly conical. This is advantageous because any bubbles that may rise to the top of the reactor chamber are forced back into the center and into the flow of water coming from the pump. The inlet at the top also fits snuggly over the outlet of the Maxi-Jet 600's outlet tube, without the use of any adapters. It is soft and pliable enough that it will not be split when pushed onto the powerhead. Next I found that if a fine airstone is used the efficiency is increased. I chose a Kordon Mist-Air Fine airstone, item #62503, which I highly recommend in this application. One of the things I have found with airstones in general when using them with CO2, is that the acidic environment tend to make airstones disintegrate quickly. The Kordon Air-Mist stones do not exhibit this problem. Also the fine airstone produces very small CO2 bubbles. There is a medium airstone from Kordon that produces bubbles the same size in fresh water, but the added back pressure in the fine stone helps in the regulation of yeast based DIY CO2 generators. It sells for about $3US. These stones are of a glass bead construction. If you use this airstone make sure you get a stiff plastic tube that fits over the airstem. The airstem has an outer diameter of .195" and you must have a tight fit. You probably can get ¼" rigid tubing from your LFS. You need about 4" in length. Once you get this rigid tubing, drill the hole in the Python tube flange slightly smaller so the tube fit very snugly. I recommend you start with very small drill bits and work your way up in size until you get the right, tight fit. If you do this, you won't have to resort to adhesives like silicon. In addition, do not attempt to use silicon or regular airline tubing. Once the pump is turned on, an airstone dangling from the end of a piece of soft airline will rattle around inside the reactor and make quite a racket. Go for the stiff, rigid tubing. Next, in order to keep the CO2 bubbles from blowing out of the reactor chamber, an Eheim Filter Pillow. This particular one was used in the Eheim 2211 cannister filter as a course filter and a media separator. The Eheim item number is 26 1611 and it is available. It is a course, stretchable, nylon webbing tube rolled-up into itself to form a pad. Take this and insert it into the bottom of the gravel tube. Any material that is like course webbing will work, this was simply convenient for me. Do not use a foam pad, unless you can see through it easily. Foam pads will clog, mostly with nitrifying bacterial growth, which will inhibit out-flow of the reactor. This may lead to excessive back pressure problems on the CO² supply, especially when yeast generators are used. So use something very course, and that fits snuggly into the reactor chamber. Otherwise, it may be blown out of the bottom of the tube. This Eheim pad works great if you can find it. I will give a list of online dealers who have it (and the other parts) in stock, as of this writing. Lastly, it is recommended you use a check valve on the CO2 line leading to the reactor, especially if you use Yeast generators. Make sure you use plastic ones or types specifically made for use with CO2. If you don't they may fail over time due to the corrosive nature of carbon dioxide. Below is an exploded view drawing of the Reactor. It gives you a better idea, visually, of how it all goes together. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is a parts list and a list of online places that stock these products. Remember, many if not all of these items can probably be found at your LFS, as well. Manufacturer Description Item Number Dealers Eheim Prefilter 2615270 That Fish Place Big Al's Eheim Tubing 16/22mm 4005940 That Fish Place Big Al's Eheim Course Pillow Pad 26 1611 Big Al's Do search under "2211" Python Products 10" Gravel Tube 13-D That Fish Place Big Al's Python Products Aquarium Systems Maxi-Jet PH 600 That Fish Place Big Al's Kordon Mist-Air fine airstone 62503 Big Al's -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Conclusion Using CO2 in your planted freshwater aquarium will show dramatic improvement in the health and growth of your aquatic plants. Understanding that a yeast generated system is again another "ecosystem in a bottle", like our tanks, you can provide the much needed CO2 your plants need. By providing a heathy living and growning evironment for the little single sell creatures doing all the work, you can have a reliable source of carbon dioxide. As the famed aquarium artist Takashi Amano said, "We have to remember that we either live in nature or not at all. Through building and maintaining beautiful natural aquaria, people relearn the intricate connections between forms of life: plants, fish, microorganisms and humans. Riches and beauty come from harmony, from balance. Aquaria are great teachers of this truth." So remember this as you grow not only your fish and plants, but also those small single cell microorganisms in that two-liter bottle. I hope you enjoyed reading this article as much as I had researching and writing it!

Old freezers are energy gobblers... I was just thinking dont you live on an acerage or a farm... If you have livestock do you have a heater to keep water open in a trough through the winter... Those things take mega energy , I have a friend in Breton that has a trough for cattle that takes about 150 dollars in electricity a month during the winter... Also if you have a metal Halide yard light , they can be pigs as well.

I agree with Nandopsis Nick it looks a little sparsely planted...you need to send out an SOS for more plants

Actually computers are very efficient and use next to nothing for electricity!

That didnt take long .. two weeks and voila. I would like to get a few angles in the future to keep company with the one that I have...Not sure how mine would react to the company... Maybe next auction or if the right deal comes around.

I have a friend that has had a pond for several years with lots of Koi in it. He has never used a net.. he built a small decrative berm around the pond! He has a water fall feature that he built out of wood and rocks that looks great and creates lots of water movement.. and with the wind we have been having the last couple of years you may not even need that ... good luck with your project... I am going to do a pond one of these days when i find time..

Those were good examples by the person that calculated them on that link RD.. The only bad example was the Heater. It is the wild card in the equation! I would be very surprised if most heaters were running more then a hour a day in the winter and likely even less in the summer if at all... So the costs would be smaller then stated.

Those Black Angels were great looking fish.. I was an eyelash away from purchasing them...

Reminds me of my Xwife of twenty years ago!

I say popycock..no way is it your fishtanks I have been monitoring my power consumption verry closely... I have 5 tanks going at the moment and I started with two going at this time last year... I have 3 -300watt heaters, 1-220watt heater and 1-100watt and 1-50watt heater... 4-aquaclear filters and 3 sponge filters on seperate air supplies.. I have a combined 260watts of lighting to boot at the moment that is running 10hrs daily... My average electric bill has been for the last year aprox 120 dollars a month... I am actually quite proud of my consumption because I have been watching and comparing last years consuption to this years via the bar graphs epcor prints on their bills... each month has been lower consumption then last year even with the addition of the tanks and the equipment... What I did last year that has been a great help was over the last 12 months I have changed out every Incodecent bulb I have in and out of my house to flourecent... From my little understanding of electricity the only high consumption item relevent to fish keeping are the heaters and once the tanks are at the opperating temperatures the heaters just dont come on ofter or for very long, unless your fish area is extremly cold! Lighting would be expensive if it was mega wattage on every tank.. but howmany people of mega wattage on top of every tank.. I say tell your hubby that he should look at other cuprits!

I dont think they eat enough to make a dent in most algae problems

They may eat the eggs in some cases or just be disruptive to the point maybe the Ram parrents eat the eggs or just wont spawn.. Plecos are buisy fish! I could be totally out to lunch on this ... Its my opinion only.

Thanks for the info and site Nick. I will have to consider buying one of these in the future.

How many sponge filters can you run off a pump like that Nick? How much wattage does it take?

I will have to pick up some test kits to see if I am within those specs... I have been only using about the half recomended dossage of fertilizer... Thanks for the info Jason... how is fatherhood going?

the lights are on 10hrs daily.. I think its getting enough co2... That is what I have been doing werner ... scraping as much away as possible with a little sand... Maybe I am just to fussy and it may clear up eventually as i am only 6 weeks into the co2 and fertilizer in this tank... I was dosing with excell before that and I wasnt getting the results I wanted so I switched to the DIY co2 and the plants have taken off..

It could be beard algae as it is like a carpet... However it is not on any of my driftwood or plants just on the surface of my sand and just in the center area of the tank... The tank is recieving a little better then 3 watts of light for each gallon of water as it is a 20gallon shallow with 65 watts of coral life lighting above it.

I have developed a problem with some algae growing in the sand , it is impossible to vacume up most of it... I have DIY co2 and I am half dosing with liquid fertilizer the tank houses 3 apistos and several different plants... I dont want to put in a pleco because I am trying to get some fry out of this group... Does anyone have any suggestions?

What the heck is an airless bag?

I live in NE Edmonton and my ph is steady around 7.6

E looks like Jungle Val

You know what might look nice in a 3 gallon.... How about some white cloud feeder fish and perhaps a low mossy plant of some type... perhaps Java moss

The males stay that small but I've seen some pretty big females. Tanker gave me a huge female that must have been 1 1/2" long and really fat bodied. She kind of looked like a plain colored platy she was so big. I guess that only makes sence as guppy females get quite large and endlers are very closely related.

Not sure where you live Dave but if you posted on the site for endlers you would find a few people in Edmonton and Calgary that have tanks full of them. I think the longest endler I have ever seen was about 3/4" they stay quite small. good luck