Doc_Polit

Beautiful tank, Taylor! You have a real talent for "natural" tank decoration. Nice work.

Thanks for all the tips. Much appreciated. The wood was stored (without stickers) for approximately 2 months. The garage is heated, but via under-floor heating only. I believe the wood was freshly cut (and stored outside) so it likely did have a much higher moisture content than I initially realized. It definitely was not kiln-dried. Oh well...live and learn. Like I said, it's 2x4 construction for me from now on. :hey:

I have made several DIY stands so I am familiar with the process. There seems to be an on-going debate as to whether 2x4 or 4x4 posts make the better corners. I have always used 2x4's and believe that two 2x4's laminated with 1/2" ply in between will give the utmost support. Being open-minded, I decided to try building my latest stand using 4x4 posts. I managed to source untreated 4x4 pine posts in my area and purchased them. I refuse to pay the price for cedar posts and using pressure treated posts in the house is equivalent to running my lawn mower in my livingroom. As I was unable to start construction immediately, I stored the posts (flat on a solid surface) in my heated garage. Yesterday when I went to measure the posts for my cuts I could not believe what I saw. The posts were horribly twisted (warped), split in several places and...worst of all....covered in black mold. I should have taken pics so you could see the degree of "damage" but, frankly, I needed to get them to the burning pit before I stirred up the mold spores in my garage. So much for the theory that 4x4's will not warp and/or split. Thank God I had not used them for my DIY. I believe that even a 50 gallon tank would have come crashing to the floor. From now on, it's laminated 2x4's or bust......no pun intended.

Be it right or wrong... Generally it is believed that 2x4 can be used over 4' without middle bracing; 2x6 over a 6' span; etc. By the way, excellent workmanship. That is a really nice looking stand! Simple and clean.....very appealing. :thumbs:

It is definitely an Afra "Cobue" male.

Hi Boom, Just a quick tip... A properly installed bulkhead does not need to be siliconed. They will not leak. If you ever need to adjust or replace them it will be a PITA. Nice work....good luck on the remainder of your project.

Feel free to get started. :hey:

Definitely not Hongi. It looks more like an Orange Cap Ndumbi (Perspicax).

Amazing tank Patrick. Your talent for tank set-up is unmatched.

The planks are composite. I don't think there are any worries about anything harmful leaching into the tank water.

Well said, Kyle.

Super job, Deborah! :thumbs: Well worth all of the research. I'm so glad it all worked out with just the one minor issue (leak). This is just not a project that a self-proclaimed "wood-working newb" would tackle. Your workmanship and attention to detail are excellent. Threads such as this do Aquatica proud.

This is an awesome project, Deborah. :thumbs: I can't wait for the remaining phases. Great job!

I got him from Dennis at Gold Aquariums in Calgary.

Thanks gang. :thumbs:

Patrick does not manufacture these backgrounds. They are made by AquaTerra and Fins 'N' Gills (Patrick) is a vendor.

A few shots of the juvies I picked up from Larry (sicklid). They are such a cool little Afra! Male Male Female Female

We just got this guy about 2 weeks ago...... He was not impressed with the flash andf kept flaring. -roll-

Sweeeeeet set up, Roger. :thumbs:

Take Deerfoot Trail to 17 Avenue SE. Go East approximately 15 blocks. As mentioned, there is a Pizza Hut on the corner (left side) and a large "dollar store" right next to Gold's. I always used the McDonald's across the street as a landmark until I got familiar with their location. Elite Aquatics and Wai's are 2 more great places to look into.

I just picked up an Intermatic digital on the clearance cart at Wal-Mart for $6.00. SCORE! :thumbs:

Hi Becky, Generally the flow rate determines which term is used. Powerheads typically have a much lower GPH and are not designed to overcome "head height". Submersible pumps are designed to be placed in sumps and have much higher flow rates to overcome head height (being placed 3-4' below the tank). As well, where powerheads are often used to direct flow and eliminate dead spots in your tank, pumps are typically plumbed to a return mechanism of some kind (nozzle, spray bar, etc). For UGJ, you want to achieve about 125-150 gph through each jet. Keep in mind that every 90 degree bend will lower your flow rate. I also would recommend using a "closed loop" which means exactly that....build a loop with jets attached. This will help keep even flow from each of your jets. Hope this helps!

Rather than another "thread", we should put Nick's contributions in the library for all to see.

I hate to say it, but it's definitely the ballast. FYI....Princess Auto has 4' fluorescent fixtures on for $14.99 in today's flyer.

A more recent trend in tank building is lining plywood with Hardiboard (cement board) and painting with Drylok. Silicone sticks to Drylok really well and forms a nice seal. Don't let anyone tell you that you can only get Drylok in the US. I just picked up 2 gallons. :smokey: Any Home Hardware can order it. If the paint dept won't cooperate, tell them to look it up on the Home Info system. Problem solved. :thumbs: As a side note, they also carry aquarium safe silicone too. Best of luck with your build.