Iceturf

Do you remember who you bought them off of on ebay? I would probably prefer to go a tried and true seller. Also, cleaning....?

I tried crazy glue in the past with some christmas moss I had. It tripled in size at first, then slowly died off back to the glue

I was thinking about buying a knockoff set on ebay for 20-30 dollars. There is a knockoff company that says theirs is made from that tough glass, costing roughly 25$ (shipping included). I'm questioning if there are any differences between different sources, considering most of them (AdA included) don't specify the material quality. Otherwise I would go with an Acrylic set. I hadn't previously considered lily pipes, but I cant actually think of a better way of getting water exchange for my 3 gal rimless. Short of that, I'm drilling my little tiny tank instead.

I see some brands of Lily pipes advertising being made out of Borosilicate Glass, but I have a hard time thinking that anything but chemistry grade glass would be tough enough....? So wouldn't they all be made out of this?

Hmm. Snap me a photo?

I heard of a mini pellia or something attaching, but can't find anything to confirm that. I'm thinking of building a fixture for a little ADA tank I've got sitting around, and throwing some moss in. I'm looking for something like a moss that will nicely handle itself. Ebay seems to be a good source for cheap moss from foreign places. I might take a chance and order a few different mosses in. I'm not sure the difference between pellia, round pellia and mini pellia. I had pellia once, it died out, then it grew entirely back from a little tiny shard the size of a paperclip. never actually attached to anything though. I've had mixed luck with fissidens. Its supposed to be a hardy plant not needing fancy upkeep, but I found it really only spread when I fertilize, and now I'm out.

What about mosses like pearl moss?

How do I know which moss varieties need to be tied down vs they attach themselves over time? http://shrimpkeeping.com/aquatic-moss/

If they could step up their game, instead of UPS making tons of illegitimate (in my opinion) profits off of slapping people with inflated duty fees, Canada post could be doing it all and better.

I tend to agree with Jvision. Also, the water will carry the cold down so it doesn't matter if you dig it 4 or 5 or 6 feet to the frost line, you are moving the frost line as you dig it down.

I live in a 'house' in an older district. Canada post is actually one of the few shipping groups that actually knocks and rings the doorbell in my area. The UPS guy in my area just puts a failed delivery notice on the door all the time - watched him do it one time, came out the front door. He looked at me and drove off. Did you ever get the shrimp?

Just edit the duplicate to read - Duplicate - and call it a day.

dlt

Nice

I'm curious, you mean a few bags worth? Not a few cubic meters?

Make sure to use a good amount of silicone to spread out the pressure (try to avoid glass on glass). I agree with ckmullin, a tank that big would be a big deal to redo a side. 'smooth edges' are a good sign, means that there are no spots where stress may accumulate.

Any ideas why they don't like it?

Found a cool website for heat sinks http://www.heatsinkusa.com good for a number of LED projects perhaps - downside is shipping :\

Looks neat, shrimp or fish?

Cool find, post some more photos?

Let me know how that cheap LED fixture works out, I'd like to try it if its any good.

I saw a screw in LED light bulb online one time - used Cree type bulbs. That may be a consideration for you. You are better off going with LED over CFL (in my opinion) due to the mercury in CFL's. At least even though some LED's use arsenic, all of the 'bad' stuff is held contained within the dye where as a broken CFL....

The biggest thing I have heard with some of the cheaper random brand LED fixtures is that they 'dampen' over time. I believe the leading LED manufacturers such as cree have intellectual patents on the newest way to skin the cat and achieve 50% efficiency. I would imagine that cheaper random brands aren't as efficient but is that bad for you? I guess not. If you have ever done electronics design, there are for instance Thin film capacitors, ceramic capacitors, tantalum capacitors, etc. Certain ends of the spectrum are pennies each. The other end several dollars. Each has their place. However, it becomes cheap to use certain capacitors with which tend to have a limited life (such as 1000 hours) or capacitors with a lower potential difference rating (the higher, the longer the life). Thus I would suspect that random brand definitely uses the lower end of the scale support components. These parts are used to help smooth out natural crests and valleys in the applied power. Thus increasing LED life. The dimming that some people experience may be two fold, sub par LEDs and poor support electronics. However, since most manufacturers don't bother to mention the quality of the control boards even expensive cameras may find themselves limited by slightly cheaper limit life parts. Buying an expensive LED module is no guarantee in quality. I recall something a little while ago brought up by another AA member - manufacturer of one of the popular lines of tank LED's doing a talk about their quality, etc. I become pessimistic about the quality of products when they don't speak towards the actually significant aspects to an LED fixture, such as "newer better rated heatsink of XYZ rating". When they can't come out with hard and fast numbers or terms then their position must be wishy washy. That said, I get the general impression people are happy with a number of the brand name models. Thus I would suggest doing this project yourself, but it took me several hours to wire mine together and short of having the equipment you're hard done by to do it yourself. Best source of LED's I have seen (as brought up by another AA member) http://dx.com/p/cree-xte-r4oa-130lm-8000k-led-emitter-white-light-bulb-for-flashlight-silver-154613 There are three grades of Cree led's in this range, even if these are the lowest 'grade' they are still good for this application. You could buy all the parts for roughly 60$ or less, i did.

How does the LED part play in?

You use muriatic acid (HCI) in the huge pool? "What do you add to your pool water?" -- "High strength hydrochloric acid muhahahahaha, gets rid of annoying customers!" -roll-