Baos

It's a natural planted tank with black soil substrate and is a little turbid(lots of small particles). With my many diggers it gets stirred up a lot. Also the video was taken right beside a bubbler and down wind from the eheim spraybar. however if you still see little eyes it's possible the banjo catfish could have spawned.

heavy charcoal filtration without prime should be ok.

Not sure I understand the question exactly but heres what I have in my tank. 2 tetras(used to setup the tank) corydoras sterbai australherlos red ceibal F1 and F2 fry BANJO CATFISH FOUR LINE PICTUS one squeaker albino bristlenoses Oh and as for the windows. the newer types are made to reflect IF and other types of heat but allow our visible light through. The same is not true for aquarium glass. I also found a window overlooking the fence that seems to have really old glass in my basement. However I can't find motion senser software for my tuner card. hauppauge pvr-150. I have tried lots of software but none seems able to pickup the video channel, and sometimes other channels for demo purposes. And the one 'coffeecup' that does can't seem to detect motion on some settings and it must e-mail the pictures to me, I can't just have it save the date and time.

I just bought an IF security camera because some jerk keeps running over my metal fence. Any ideas on how to shoot this through a window? Anyways here is a short video of my tank.

Plants are growing good. algae has subsided. I'm still bubbling the water. I may test it overnight soon to see if I can do without.

Just so you don't make the same mistake I did. Screen your soil and get the wood bits out of it or you could end up leeching wood oil into your water(toxic). Too much organic matter in the soil can lead to your room smelling like a cat pee'd there. On the other hand charcoal solved the wood oil problem. I added a bubbler because the soil was consuming too much oxygen. And the smell subsided after 2 months. I used circle H farms compost from canadian tire. I'd recommend a different potting soil as it just isn't suitable.

straight from my bookmarks.. http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/

I am in leduc and use water hyacinth(industrial water purifier) and water lettuce in my planted tank. I generally don't have a detectable N level. I throw out about a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff every 2 months.

Just an idea I had a while back. Maybe using small screens with a metal center and then a strong magnet on the back side of the glass. Nothing would get trapped behind the screens, and the moss wall could always be removed if you decided you didn't want it at a later date. Also small fish wouldn't get trapped behind it but could use it as a hiding place. You could also move the moss on rotation if it wasn't growing good in some areas.

add salt immediately as it detoxifies the nitrite for the fish.

They aren't too compatible with other cichlids. Possibly large geophagus. They become very aggressive during breeding. They like a cooler temperature with a cold hibernation period. I feed mine nls sinking pellets. There have been reports of people keeping them at 80F and they were ok.

The store I bought the 48" t5ho from claimed the light output of a single bulb was the same as two t8s. incidentally it's the sunblasters I'm using.

For the first time the algae really is dieing back and I'm seeing some great growth on the plants. an inch a day from one. I'm open to suggestions on improvements. background wise I just have not found anything I like, and I don't like background pictures.

or what you attempted: I noticed you kinda copied it wrong. So if you don't see pictures directly above this, your computer has issues. I think photobucket has some issues with the copy command. I got a few extra items and had to edit this.

This sounds better than the straight potting soil I used in mine. not sure what gasses it's producing but I have to airrate it just to release them.

I had a single pair of tetras that made 100+ babies for me in a matter of 2 months. I believe all they need is some dense planting to block out the light. I believe they survive on algae or other micro organisms that eat algae.

I've had the wood toxin problem. You'll recognize a wood smell in the room, then it's wood oil. charcoal fixes it. I've also got a strange fungus that thus far is harmless but grows underneath the shade of plants. And some white worms that my corydoras seemed to destroy since only my buddies tank got it and in my tank they were decimated.

I think it might be time for a cave. Any thoughts? I wouldn't mind a few more of these around the tank, any suggestions on care so they don't get eaten?

We use epoxy for items going into the ocean for years at a time. They come up pretty much the way they went down. Not saying all epoxy is the same, but just an idea.

I don't use bacteria products and I've cycled a 10g with a blue ram colony. If you monitor your ammonia, nitrite, nitrate levels they'll tell you when you need a water change. Just make sure you have something that breaks chloramine.

Sometimes clowns can get themselves stuck in things. Make sure he's not stuck.

As the saying goes if it isn't broke don't fix it. If the fish are doing ok and getting better, don't start now. I've seen a few decent fish keepers swear by the method you're using. Many on here will swear by some brand of ich medication they have used. Others will swear this med or that med kills anything it touches. I'd suggest checking out http://albertaaquatica.com/index.php?showtopic=354 to learn a bit more about how these companies figure out what works and what doesn't.

It takes a bit of patients. Are you still medicating the tank or is it purely salt now?

It's a nice lie I heard in the 90's from pet stores. I guess if most of the customers kill the fish before they become a problem, no big deal.

I had a slow bottleneck due to some adapter on my kitchen sink. I removed it.