T Dawg

Sounds about right. The top has an acrylic sealant so painting is optional. They claim to be rated for the weight even when shimmed, but I am waiting to hear back (was looking to use them in thtebasement, and figured why not add a few more) since thw website claimes they support 4,000 lbs but I was worried how shims would effect that number. My 90 is 18" x 48" so the should be hidden underneath or have a slight rear overhang.

A pair of the DriCore subfloor pannels and the related shim kit might be what you are looking for.

Ginger passed a few days ago, and shortly after we had a male endler die. So far the otos have not found the bogwood, but there is a cloud of little Endlers nipping at it. One of the otos has a newly dammaged front fin. The tetras have been hanging out deeper in the tank, more lower 5 inches.

Added a hunk of bogwood tonight after having soaked it for a few nights. Did a 50% water change and added a heater cover to the Fluval 300w. Tried a few new ideas for the fry filtration protection system but none worked and planned so after a quick rinse the sponge is back on the XP3 pickup and the XP2/Rena 200w heater are back in the retasked media bag. Cleaned the hoses, recut, and rotated them between up/down and input/output for algae control. I had gotten most off by squeezing the tub with the filter on in areas with a buildup, but I missed a few spots for too long and it became too built up for the added water velocity created by the narowing of the pinching to work. The filters have been noisier than ever and one is gushing air. Call to Rena, a lot of research, a trip to the LSF, and a few forum posts still have this as an in progress item for now. May just replace.

Glad you were able to pin it down. Got to like happy fish. It could be as simple as entry angle of the water creating less splashing in the big tank. Back before I figured out fish die anyway I did way too much testing with angle of hose, lid position, and amount of agitation for best dispersal of chlorine using only the agitation of the incoming water. I was amazed how small changes made a big difference.

I think the top having water but noleaking durringoperation became clear when I took thescrews out. When I use thequickdisconnect there is water betwen the valves aboveteh top of the filter that sort of squirts when unplug the tubes.I think this could be the source of the water in the top but I am not sure. The pumpis now very noisy (louder than the airpump) so I may need to replace the impeller shaft and bearings, and at that price for not lasting a year I may just limp until boxing week or a US trip and replace it. I took hoses off, recut the ends, re-re-rechecked the in-tank fittings, and examined all the rubber with no succes. I might try swapping the rubber between units again depending how I feel tommoerow...

I'll need to hit another LFS for parts, the one I went to did not have the parts I waslooking for. There has been water in the lid from day one, but could that contribute to the current air issue?

I see two o-rings you may be referring to. There is the outer continuous square gasket. It seems pliable and unbroken, as I do not have a spare I have not tried to remove or do to much with it, just a wipe. There is an inner circle that has a single gasket made from a price of rubber looped to meet up with itself in a circle but not contiguous. I removed this, rolled it in my fingers looking for hard spots or hard water build ups, then installed it inverted. I did find the impeller shaft bearings seemed swollen and the shaft was no longer smooth. Since when I take the lid off and turn the top upside down water does come out around the electrical plug I am guessing I shuold look for new seals for that area. I took some pictures, butthe S.O. "put away" the card reader so I so not know where it is. How can it be put away if it has never been put there before.

The baskets do seem to be seating and fitting together well. The media trays are not overly full and they sit nice and flat.

Well there is the one type of though search that can make you feel awkward afterward....poor little guys/gals. Glad to hear they all made it.

With our corys , I find if the new water temp is a degree or two below the existing tank temp and I have the water well defused (Python flow restriction valve set to about ¾ to cause a broken fan spray) they will play in the new water. If the water is the same temp they tend to just sit still or hide during the fill then go back to normal soon after the fill stops. If the flow from the python is too smooth and the chlorine does not get agitated out the cories tend to sit until the chlorine dissipates and that can take an hour or so unless a dechlorinator is used.

I would suspend anyone who asks from posting until they send you chocolate or fish.

How long after the change fo they calm down? If after the fill stops they are back to normal they can be shy. The length of agitiation may point to something.

Both my Rena XP2 and XP3 have had about a 1” air gap at the top since they were new. They are now 8 months old. The tops are also full of water each time I go to clean the filters and need to be drained. Both seem to not be ideal, but normal for many users. One has always been noticeably louder than the other, and based on reading this seams common given they have different impeller shaft types. Both have gotten louder over the past few months. For the past few weeks or so the XP2 has been expelling air every 15-45 minutes but I cannot find the source. Last time this happened I had an air stone too close to the pickup. I guess this means one of the seals could be in need of replacement. If I read the troubleshooting document correctly it would be the main seal I am replacing, but it seems to be in good shape, matching the other unit. Any tips on finding out which seal needs replacing or should I just replace all of them? Any comments, pointers, ortips on any of these other items?

Even adding the male once could get you thee batches, from each of the romanced. Them females is tricky folk, they can store enough,er, genetic stuff, for a few batches!

Most of mine with in the XP3, only a few in the XP2.

That seems like a good item to become a sticky in the diy section.

If the Endlers are breeding order the bigger tank now.... I have not seen still born, but we do have occatioaly have a few fry that just go away now and then. If the fish are stresed tehy can keep them in and not drop. Some of our Endler girls get huge! Then nomal looks so tiny afterwards. Once you have more females it is easy to see what is the "normal" width.

Just the other week I saw a pair in the filter and called the S.O. over to help with the cleaning. By the time we were done over 20 live ones were found and put back in the tank. One was way too big to have made it in at that size so he must have been there for a few weeks. One filter had most of them, oddly the one with the smaller grate. We now have a lot of fish.

Without. Fish seem happy. First batch o fish had no loss. Very little death in general, unlike the small tank that started the hobby. A few lost on subsiquent adds (each time we add tetras we loose two) and a few missing corys. Have a journal setup but have not updated it in a while.

As long as you watch the expiry date on them they seem fine. We have both and alternate between them and get consistent readings with both.

Sifting the info with the startup can be hard.

A water change that keeps the filters and decorations wet will not cause issues or slow the cycle, and it will keep everything in the readable ranges for your testkits. To keep the math simple, I'd do a 50% change then test, test again and change the needed percent to get you back to 5PPM.

You may have gone to petsmart in the wrong country, but they do let you order off of the US website and ship to Canada. The ones I saw in th US looked quite a bit differnt, but the store demo did not have that type of output. The US version has a light that changes through 7 colours. Here is the box pic Petsmart Box Pic

I forgot a post last week, but I did clean it.