Evolution

I totally forgot about that brand!

I was assuming that Ruadh has a Vortex, because they said "jar", but Magnums and HOT Magnums can be used as diatom filters too. I'll let them describe their unit and how it mounts.

Vortex

I agree go with sand not gravel... Sil 7 or 8 instead of play sand that traps gas / Its easy to vacum the debris off the top ... IMO looks more natural can I use sil 7, never tried sil 8. I was also given a well drilling sand that is dustless and well water safe. It is coarser than sil 7, but it almost looks like tiny tiny beads of quartz. I haven't used it yet. Maybe I will on my new shrimp tank.

The diatom filter uses diartomatious earth to filter the water. So the pound that is refered to in the other comment is diatomaious earth (fine white powder) that blankets a micron filter cartridge inside the filter canister. It filters out fine particles such as algae blooms, bacteria blooms and even ich. You have to run the filter on a bucket or other water holding container and add D earth to the bucket until the appropriate amout of earth has covered the micron cartridge, then switch the filter over to the tank and filter it. Depending on the make and mondel size, it will clairify the water in a few short hours, to over night.

Yes jesp, as the biological base. The 2215 doesn't have a water by pass of any kind; all the water going through it must go throught the substrat, making it a more efficiant biological filtering device than the xp3. As well, the flow rate is slower, so the by-pass time through the substrat is slower than in any other canister, which causes a longer contact time for the bacteria to break down the ammonia and nitrite.

I would definatly stay away from gravel unless you are a gravel vaccuming maniac (good at it). Gravel traps too many organic compounds, which has to be removed often by way of a hydro vac. I personally do not like bare bottom tanks either; I don't like the look. Sand on the bottom is how I go and it has a very important benefit. Sand provides a great breeding ground for beneficial bacteria to consume organic waste, which I believe helps to prevent the build up of fungus and pathogenic bacteria. Sand bottoms are easy to clean, because most debris congregate into one or two tight little spots and it's easy to just siphone them off. Other than with wood eating plecos, i find no debris builds up to be siphoned off, but that also has to do with the fact that you'll never see uneaten food in the bottom of any of my tanks. If you go with a really thick sand bed, like 2-3 inches this will give you the added benefit of a natural denitrator. Just add a dozen cories, brochis or even 6-12 banjo cats to help keep the top inch and a half of the sand well oxygenated. I would use the 2215 as the foundation of the biological filtration and the xp3 for some added biological filtration, mechanical filtration, and added water movement.

My female would beat up the male. His fins would get ripped and torn and she literally hammer him in a corner. She almost killed him, yet they spawn frequintly. I asked because I noticed the males fins were ripped.

6 pink tailed or yellow finned chalceus would be sweet for surface fish.

I don't think your neighbourhood is sketchy at all. I lived in forest lawn for 4 years, I assure you, that area is sketchy. Unless you yourself are sketchy, and well, that would make you normal I guess.

oh boy, good luck. If you need anymore help just ask.

Your welcome. I've used dap silicone and I think i used the remover years ago, but today I just use full concentration vinegar. After I've done the final cleaning with the vinegar I shop vac the seals then let it dry for 24 hours, because I don't want any vinegar left in the joint. Use a new hardback with the vinegar and just scrap in a forward direction. Don't scrape back and forth, it cause the silicone film to roll and scraches the glass.

I use GE 1200 construction series. My concern is all this work being done on it weakens it even more. Consider slowly running a fine bead first (the thickness of a pen tip) into the entire length of the joint. Apply good pressure to attempt to pack the inside of the joint, then take a dry tool or finger and run the bead tightly to pack it even more. Do not damp tool this bead as you do not want the water in there when running the next bead. Then right after this switch to the bigger cone tip and run your regular half inch bead over the existing wet bead and then damp tool it to get a clean bead. Use the pen tip size cone or smaller to pack the outside joint and damp tool it. I would let the seal sit for 5-7 days before adding water as it takes several days for black to dry on the inside.

Just to be contrary - I do not believe any of the above recommendations are shrimp safe. As far as I know only cory's will abide shrimp Idk, the I. werneri mouths are so small their mamas have to puree' their food their whole lives.

click the multi quote button on the lower right corner of each of the posts you want to quote... it change color to indicate you have selected that post. Then either press the 'Add reply' or the 'Use full editor' button and it will bring all the quote HTML into the post editor for you. You mean like this?? Thank you very muchly!!

Sorry to hear about your fish loss! Because you have a filter and air pump going there probably was enough oxygen as it was constantly being replenished. Could it have been ammonia? Are you stripping the old seal off the entire tank? I would, but not the inbetween seal. Are you using a brand new hardback blade and then using a solution to strip all the film off? Are you using clear silicone or black? I only use black anymore and any new tank I buy is always black silicone as it is about 40 times stronger than clear. Are you running just one bead of silicone then tooling it and leaving it to dry? While you are at it seal in the entire inside of the top plastic trim if it isn't done aready.

Maybe ask Ray at sourceaquatics what it is worth. But I'd offer $75 - $100, that is what it is worth to me used. However the bio media which is not listed what kind, also plays a part in the price. Ask what it is, if it is just scrub pads from the dollar store or cut up foam pads then that media isn't worth much, but if it is good quality bio-balls and atleast 10 or 20 gallons worth them offer a little more. "Hi shannon, Oh I see, well it has the "plastic balls" type media, an the sheet filters, kinda like the plastic scour pads for dishes only they are in sheet form, how big a tank do u have to be using this sump? I also have the jet pump as well. I'm not really sure what to ask for a price, I suppose the tank is worth about 300 new, and the jet pump is about 225.00 new, as I don't need it anymore, how about 200.00 for both?.....u can call me if you wish, I'm at ********** Thanks Maurice " plus bio balls and a pump for $200 sounds like a very good deal to me. Wet dry filters are awesome biological filters and this one is made very well. Although a pain in the butt to filter mechanically (filter wool before the bioballs) from the sump because of the work involved to remove the lid to replace the filter wool. But that can be fixed at the tanks over flow. One of the options of having this size of sump is the right side can be used as plant tank for added filtration or it can be egg crated off to make a tank for other fish or many other options. If you're handy with the saws and drills make yourself a nice 2x4 stand and stackem' high!! Will

Maybe ask Ray at sourceaquatics what it is worth. But I'd offer $75 - $100, that is what it is worth to me used. However the bio media which is not listed what kind, also plays a part in the price. Ask what it is, if it is just scrub pads from the dollar store or cut up foam pads then that media isn't worth much, but if it is good quality bio-balls and atleast 10 or 20 gallons worth them offer a little more.

Usually when it says "do not drill" it is refering to the bottom as it is tempered glass. The sides and the back can be drilled though.

I noticed sometimes that multiple quotes from different comments and different people can be quoted in one comment. I would like to be able to do this to keep my threads and posts tidy, but I do do not know how to easily. I can do it by opening another window, cut and paste the information needed from that new window to the new comment being created, then add the quote html to the sentence being quoted, but is there an easier way? Thank you Will

It's hard for me to get things out sometimes, so it make sense to the reader. I'm gad you could follow it as most times I can't follow half the things I type. I envy your hubby!! He got off easy!

Ahaha, thank you for the compliment! I'll see what I can do about putting pictures up for you to see, but I cannot promise anything too soon.

Oh yes, that is a pair. They are still very young give them time. Is the female pounding on the male?