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Corner Cabinet Complete!


Fisher
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Trimmed the top with 1x4; the bottom with 1x3 pine. I decided against a hidden hinged door after I learned from a certain someone that Rare Earth was a magnet before it was the name of a band. The door is just 1/2" ply that sits inside the frame.

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I'm forming the fixture stand from 1/2" EMT. It will run up the vertical strut in the back corner, and through the hole in the cabinet top. After about a 20" rise will be the first bend. I plan to run the fixture wiring back through the EMT, and into the cabinet. I'll run the canister hoses through the top too.

The cabinet door still needs another coat of stain and some varnish. It's a removable panel that will look the same as the sides. Instead of a pull handle and hinges, it'll be held in the frame by magnets. The plywood has enough flex for me to use a "push to release" latch to kick the door out of the frame.

It's almost time to cut up some sticks to frame cabinet #2.

Edited by Fisher
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I was excited to see the cabinets side by side. The first coat of stain was too light. The second coat is what brought out the red. After seeing them together, I won't huck the project in the firepit and start over ^_^

The cabinet is 3/4" longer than it was when I dry fit the frame because of the trim. Now it's a 1/4" too long to scoot back against the wall. (pith!)
How-ebb-ah, the middle cabinet is off center 7/8" to the right. So once I shift it over, both corner cabinets will fit.

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1/2" EMT couplings attached to the frame with conduit straps. The couplings have a centering boss on the inside that must be removed in order for conduit to pass through. Short work for a 12" bastard cut, round file. I'll paint the conduit after it's bent.
The final height of the fixture stand will be adjusted here. There's 10" between the lower coupling and the bottom of the cabinet

Edited by Fisher
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Are you sure the plywood will still be soft enough to kick the door out of the frame with an aquarium on top?

If you're concerned that the frame will compress under the tank weight, and bind on the panel, then yes! Pine compressive strength is ~ 8400psi parallel to the grain. I reckon the panel will pop out. Once I set up the tank, I'll share any shortcomings I discover.

Backless and covered at the front is not at all what I'm used to with stands, but it seems to match your existing furniture. Keep it up!

I'm used to seeing dresses that are backless and covered at the front, not aquarium stands. So I wrestled with this design, and admittedly, I intended to sheet it all in. It's anticlimactic to see the wall when the panel is out, but backless allows me clear access to the walls and wall outlet.

Thanks for the encouragement folks! I'm way over budget, and way over time, and I'm having a ball!

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the tank is 18" high. The light stand is 30 " rise above the cabinet top.
The vertical bend is > 90o (to the inside) to account for sag once the fixture is attached.
The horizontal bend also has a slight upward kick for the same reason. The camera angle doesn't show either.
the horizontal bend is < 90o in order to center the front horizontal section, left to right, over the tank.
The right end looks farther right than it really is because of the camera angle. See below.
Originally, I wanted to flush mount the light to the conduit arm, but I haven’t found an esthetically pleasing way to do that yet.
Plan B is to put a pair of hooks in the conduit and use the Hagen suspension kit that came with the fixture.

My big surprise was discovering that wad of electrical cord on the Hagen Glo fixture is 10' long. That's plenty of cord to run back through the conduit, and out the bottom end inside the cabinet. Yay for small victories.

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