Reseal/reline Tank Tips?

[Serenity]

I finally got myself a nice big 300 gal tank but noticed some of the silicon is peeling.

Previous owner said it held water fine but it has been dry for over year and was formerly a salt tank. (will be freshwater)

I want to reseal it and not chance 300 gallons on my floor as leaving it seems like a risk but resealing also seems like a risk.

I've decided to reseal it and hope for the best. I've read many articles (including the one pinned in this section) and watched many youtube videos but it always seems there are little tips or pieces of advice from experience that can make things go a whole lot smoother.

I've got masking tape, razor blades, the right silicone, acetone for cleaning the glass

Any tips or advice? Is there any special notes or considerations that need to be made due to the size/amount of water? (thicker seal, reinforcing materials/etc)

Tank is 96L*30W*24H

Thanks!

[blink]

The biggest/only tank I've resealed was a 90 but it went smooth and easy, just like all the diy articles said it would.

I have two tips though, get some mechanics gloves (mechanix wear or similar) and get used to wearing on working in them and but the 100 pack of Stanley razor blades at canadian tire, you'll go through a lot and you need to toss em as soon as you notice them getting dull. The gloves will save your fingers from the back spine of the blades but reduce dexterity, for me the trade is worth it but you gotta practice or you'll end getting cut when the blade slips.

Also, buy band aids... If you have em you won't need them, if you don't have any you'll have to drive to the store while bleeding

[cainechow]

What silicone did you decide on?

1)Tape is good but use the painter type because it releases easier

2)Make sure you feather the silicone down to just about nothing at the edges where the tape meets your silicone. If you don't the edge can pull away when you remove the tape

3) Do not wet your finger/tool to smooth the silicone bead. Water will cause the silicone to skin. This means if you need to do a second pass, it will get ugly fast. If you go dry, multiple passes can be done.

4) peel the masking tape as soon as you have finished smoothing. If you wait, the silicone may lift with the tape.

5) if your tape is in long strips, you can twirl it around a stick so that it doesn't swing around and get silicone all over.

6) if you get silicone all over, dont wipe it. Let it cure then razor it off.

Edited December 16, 2013 by cainechow

[jeremoose]

You will be amazed how EASY the job is to do. The most work goes into prepping it - be anal about getting all the last remnants of silicone off and make sure it's dust-free before re-siliconing.

[flyfisher]

The bigger the tank the easier it is, more room to maneuver when masking and using silicon tube gun.Lots of ventilation or you will get a buzz and not the good kind. LOL

[DivineHammer]

always buy more silicone then you think you will need, for a normal 4 footer it's easy to go through 2 tubes with no problem, I used 3 tubes just for my front window on my 240 plywood and glass 8 footer, glad I had bought 5. what you don't use can be taken back, but it really sucks when you have to run to the store in the middle of the reseal because you didn't buy enough.

[ckmullin]

Assuming you haven't done the job yet:

My big tip would be to also state don't let the silicone skin over before you remove the tape. Once you finish with your bead lines remove all in one shot. Practice if you'd like on another glass joint but from using the gun to removing the tape should be less than 3-5 minutes for the entire tank as this process goes (should go) very quickly. Use a water damp rag to clean your finger (recommended) or tool with each line so that your finger/tool is clean of silicone for each pass. If you are comfortable with your skill you can do the entire job 4 pass runs than having to lift your finger/tool for each glass joint (8 pass runs for each glass-glass joint).