Ro Water Issues

[jumpsmasher]

The inlet line should already have some form of shutoff / ball valve if you are tapping into the cold water line or if you are using a facuet adapter so no need for one unless it doesn't have one.

For the outlet there is two lines; one for the main "finished" RO water that will be going into your tank or reservoir and one for the waste water that should be going down the drain. You only need a shut-off / ball valve on the RO water line; you shouldn't have anything on the waste water line.

[Ron]

The inlet line should already have some form of shutoff / ball valve if you are tapping into the cold water line or if you are using a facuet adapter so no need for one unless it doesn't have one.

For the outlet there is two lines; one for the main "finished" RO water that will be going into your tank or reservoir and one for the waste water that should be going down the drain. You only need a shut-off / ball valve on the RO water line; you shouldn't have anything on the waste water line.

Gotta disagree with you there, the waste line is a direct connection to the membrane housing and it would be a coin toss between it and the produced water line for which would dry out the membrane quicker.

[Charis]

Well, they sound inexpensive, so it doesn't seem like a big deal to just cap off all three.

[Driftwood]

Charis, and others

The water coming out of your R/O membrane is NEVER likely to be zero. Your TDS level will depend on what minerals and contaminants are present in you input water

The DI unit that you are going to add to your system WILL reduce your TDS level to ZERO !!!

You can add all the shut off valves you like.

I don't know what kind of system you are running, but both the systems I use came with self piercing saddle clamps that attach to your copper cold water line and supply water to the R/O unit. You can shut off the input water using that valve. There is also an automatic valve that controls the water going into and out of your R/O membrane chamber. There should be some sort of restrictor valve on the waste water line. This valve will normally be closed and only opens will the system is in operation and there is enough pressure in that line. Both my units also have a manual valve on the restrictor valve that can be opened to flush the system. If you run your R/O water into a pressure tank, the tank will control the operation of your system.

I am on well water, so I use booster pumps and pressure tanks on both my systems. One system also has 2 - 50 gallon storage tanks controlled by float valves connected to the pressure tank. I never added any shut off valves to either system and the first has been in operation for over 6 years and the second for all most 3.

Unless your units are of a completely different design, the only shut off that I can see any reason to add, would be on the input side of the unit, located close to the unit to use to shut off the water supply when you change filters.

[Ron]

Some people don't have their systems connected all the time. In my old house I connected mine through the tap and hose bib connector so no permanent plumbing change needed to be made. I used to only make water ever couple of weeks so instead of valves, I would plug the lines with air hose plugs.

I run mine every couple of days now so I don't worry about the membrane drying out. The way I see it, my DI canister acts as a buffer on my produced water line and would have to dry out before my membrane. The rest are protected by the multiple solenoid valves in the system.

[Iceturf]

Question here - RO systems that I've looked at would be duel purpose, drinking and aquarium. I have read it is recommended to get a "remineralization" stage for RO systems in drinking applications. However, I've also read that re-mineralization ups the PH to about 8-9. Obviously not desired for certain fish applications, what do you guys do about it? Do you use a separate line before the remineralization?

[Charis]

I don't think there are any sort of valves that automatically close on my unit… but I bought a very cheap one! And, it's not permanently hooked up to anything. I'll bet there are all kinds of fancy inclusions with the more expensive units!

Sorry, Iceturf, I can't help you…. I'm just here asking questions. I do know that I'm remineralizing mine outside of my unit. I bet these other guys have tons of great thoughts for you.

My shrimp arrived from the states today. Not a single DOA! I am so impressed! I did a very slow drip acclimatization and they seem quite happy, ripping around the aquarium. Unfortunately, one of the tanks that I was going to use had some ammonia this morning. Maybe my cycled sponge filter wasn't quite cycled after all. I ended up putting 10 of the Blue Dreams in a breeder box in the Orange Rili tank. Do you think this set up will be ok for a bit? Or do shrimp go crazy with a small amount of space? Let me know your thoughts.

[uwish]

Re-mineralized water from RO/DI to me is a bit pointless from a drinking water POV. I have had kidney stones in the past so I have been all over when it comes to what is the 'best' type of water. And it's 0 TDS, zero! I have a zero water filter that I pour my softened tap water into and I get nothing in my water but H20. If you have a 'normal' diet you don't need to worry about getting your minerals etc from water, you will be enough from a healthy diet. It should be noted that it isn't recommended to consume regularly DI water, RO yes but not DI.

Now from an aquarium FW / SW POV 0 TDS is excellent then you know where nutrients must be coming from if you have issues. FW Planted tank, 0 TDS isn't good as the plants require some base minerals to be healthy and grow (along with other things).

I wouldn't 're-mineralize' your water for drinking, I think it is an unnecessary step.

[Iceturf]

I'm not an expert, but for the short term - I wouldn't worry about space concerns too much.

Uwish - I'll keep that in mind. I have a relative who thinks remineralized is the way to go. We drink a lot of water, I think we read to prevent minerals from being sucked out of your body by super pure water, its not a bad idea to have some in there. I understand what you are saying, I also agree, I don't think that the mineral content in the water would be a source for minerals. However, from university chemistry classes, they say the super pure de-ionized water isn't potable because it sucks the minerals out of your body.

The truth? Don't know.

Edited December 9, 2014 by Iceturf

[ckmullin]

say the super pure de-ionized water isn't potable because it sucks the minerals out of your body.

I've read the same in my past.

[jumpsmasher]

Iceturf, depending on where you put the RO filter you can insert a "T" or "Y" fitting to split the line after the RO membrane. For drinking water, the standard setup is a small reservoir tank (generally underneath the sink) and a separate faucet. For the aquarium line you can put the DI filter after you split the line.

To make sure you will always have drinking water readily available the standard install is to tap directly to you cold water line; the shut off valve should stop the production of water when the reservoir tank for the drinking water is full. For the aquarium side you can just use a ball valve turn it on and off whether you need to product RO water. Depending on how much water you need (i.e water changes) probably be a good idea to have a decent size reservoir with a float valve. I use standard sized aquariums but you can also use plastic barrel / drums or heavy duty rubbermaid bins.

Charis, they should be fine temporarily in the breeder box until your other tank is ready. If you want something bigger; there is the Marina external breeder boxes. They are air driven and hang on the outside of the tank (http://ca-en.hagen.com/Aquatic/Misc.-Accessories/Breeders--Salt--Silicone/10943). Most places that carry hagen product should have them - the large size is the one you want.

[Charis]

I actually have a marina external breeding box that I've never tried out. I'm a little afraid to get it wrong... but it can't be that tough! I'll give it a try! It will probably be more room and water circulation for these guys. Thanks for the idea. I forgot that I even have it!