cainechow Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 I'm looking at building a custom tank that is 84" long x 18" wide x 12" high as part of the divider between my kitchen and the living room. I suppose it'll be a long peninsula. I'm planning on putting a coast to coast overflow by the wall side. What I'm concerned about is water flow. If I put my water returns on the same end as the overflow, will I be able to get sufficient flow to get water to go 7' at the other end of the tank? or do you guys think that I need to put my return at the opposite end of the overflow? If you have experience with long tanks, or any thoughts really, I'd love to hear your ideas. If you are a fluid dynamics engineering type... even better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckmullin Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Opposite and help it along with a Hydor Koralia 600 in the middle to complete a full (counter)clockwise rotation. It can be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meeiu Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 I would also do opposite sides as well to create a complete waterflow cycle. Reef project? FW project? Full support either way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainechow Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) I'm thinking FW iwagumi display tank for shrimps. Probably more rock and substrate than plants. I'll have some plants, but I don't want to be trimming all the time on another tank. I was thinking about it and I am now considering drilling another hole on the far side and then hiding the return with some rock work. Edited December 31, 2014 by cainechow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeysgreen Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Why not run it as a stream tank. Water in one side, out the other. Drill it through the sides; run a pump in addition to the filter. I've seen a really fantastic version of this done by a biologist here in Edmonton; I think he did a talk about it for the EAC at one point too. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvision Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Check out my 125 Tropheus tank (esp. posts 1 & 10). It's got an FX5 for filter, intake is at the bottom and return is at the top of the same side; an Hydor 3 or 4 (can't remember which size) is set at the opposite side with a bubble wand situated under it. I get complete circulation; as long as your return is strong enough to push water all the way across the surface of the tank, and your intake is at the bottom of the tank, you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blink Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Reef people do similar tanks ALL the time with outlet and inlet on the same end, you'll need a powerhead or two to get good flow on the far end as Jvision suggested. I'd look at a Maxspect Gyre, they're a little pricey but they are made to create the desired flow in long tanks, it just might be a bit too powerful for an Iwagumi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainechow Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I'm thinking of drilling because I don't want any wires on that far end. I won't have a canopy to hide things like jvision does. I should take a pic of the space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudy Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I'm thinking of drilling because I don't want any wires on that far end. I won't have a canopy to hide things like jvision does. I should take a pic of the space. If you are building a custom tank don't put anything that requires a wire in there. You should talk to Lyder (Gumby) on the board and if you have the space don't settle as you will regret it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainechow Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 That's the space. I'm going to try to keep the area above the tank as open as possible. I'll probably use 3 or 4 pendant LEDs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristarockstar Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Did you decide how you are going to set it up? (Intake, output, power heads etc) I think I want to do something similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainechow Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Yeah. The plan is to put the overflow on the side closest to the wall which will go straight down into the sump. I like the overflow like the reefers do because it pulls all the crap that can collect on the surface and runs it through the filter. I might have to custom build my sump also because I'm not sure if there will be as much room as I'd like for a regular sized tank to make a sump out of. The return will be drilled on the bottom at the end closest to the camera. The plan is to add just enough pipe so that it clears the substrate, add a 45deg bend and hopefully hide it in some rock work. Since the tank is so long, there is a lot of room for rock work With this setup I should be able to get water to flow completely through the long tank. It may not be a raging rapid, but because water has to go in through one end and out through the other, it should be good or good enough. There could be some spots of lower flow depending on the end rock work, but I'm not going heavy planted on this one I think. The only problem with this tank is that it is not cheap to have built. I should get a quote for just the starphire glass with flat polish. I think just glass will run about $700 or $800. A full build is something like $1700. If I went float glass, it would be like half the price, but on this kind of dream tank... who wants float glass? Krista, if you want, I have a tool that will calculate the size of the glass panes you need, including overflow box & cutout if that is the flavour you like. Just send me a pm and I can send you the url. And if you are interested in ADA type silicone work, we can talk too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Better make sure you have a ball valve and a union check valve that you can keep clean on your return line. If you don't, your entire tank will drain if your return pump ever fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainechow Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I thought about that too Ron. I was planning on ball valve, then two check valves. Because sometimes crap happens to check valves... hopefully not both at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 One check valve should be fine, just get a clear one with unions so you can clean it easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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